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My 98 r1 rides ok until bike get hot after givin it a work out then sounds and rough as hell and sounds as if one the shims need sorting or coils as sounds rough and lack of power as well ,

Then sounds and rough as hell and sounds as if one the shims need sorting or coils as sounds rough and lack of power as well , does not cut out and starts first time every time even when cold , but as said when its gone about 10 miles about 70 ? mph then it sounds like a bag of nail with no power until its high in revs

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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j_del
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SOURCE: 2001 ford windstar

Go to AutoZone and have them scan the computer for codes (it's free). Post the codes they give you on here, and we can narrow it down for you.

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

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SOURCE: shaking problem

shaking problems star.. from front end.. check you tires out of round shape.. balancing tiress. inner and outer tie rods. alignament

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: subaru legacy/liberty 2.2eng lacks power under load and cuts out

There are two common issues with the 2.2... Both relate to valve guides. If you're confident that the sensors and controls are functioning well. Knock sensor? it doesn't hurt to pull it clean its mounting surfaces and bolt before reinstalling it if you're certain that it's good - you may be retarding timing significantly if there's an errant signal there. This would be noticeable loss of power, but not "cut-outs" as in your presentation.

You may be looking at a hanging exhaust valve. The valves sometimes will 'hang' and not close as anticipated leaving you with a vicious stumble (a 4-cyl running on 3-cyl) two "causes", if you will.. The valves may just hang in the guide (sticky & tight from build-up) or the guide itself may be sliding in the head (unfortunately, a few of the 2.2's of this period do have this issue).

If you're interested in the diagnosis, you can drop the exhaust manifold at the head you can look at & compare how far the exhaust guides are protruding from the head - all of the guides should "sitck out" from above the exhaust valve the same amount -- if you have a loose guide they tend to be "out" a bit further -- The thinking on this for your symptom is that the guide will push out with the valve opening and NOT return far enough to allow the exhaust valve to fully close - the result is a loss of compression at various times/conditions that is hard to track down. The "fix" would be to R&R the offending head to press a new over-sized guide.

The other sticky valve issue is also not too uncommon, the diagnosis is less straight forward - in that you'd need to watch vacuum, power, and DTC data at the time that the this power issue occurs. Typically, I'd recommend going with a strong and safe engine-oil flush and some sort of strong induction/injection cleaning to try to loosen and remove any build-ups on the valves. Many people with the 2.2 have switched into Synthetic engine oils for this reason... Some discussioin have included a few of the "snake-oil" additives for use after the flush (the very thin "metal penetrating" kind of snake-oils get good comments in a lot of the discussions) - It's your vehicle, I find the flush and regular good oil changes can clear-up the 2.2's sticky valve issues without wondering what I've put into my crankcase.


- best of luck

Posted on May 14, 2009

SOURCE: stalling out at highway speed 1998 chevy metro 1.0

Generally stalling out while cruising could be a crank sensor, fuel pump, or ignition module. Being it only happens intermittantly I would suggest getting it checked out by a pro before you get stranded. This is the type of complaint that can be a nightmare to diagnose so be prepared for an expensive diag

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

BRADLEYFRANC
  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: high rev, rough idle in golf

If your car is fuel injection,try changing the cold start temp sender.

Posted on Aug 14, 2009

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