Question about Dodge Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Remove two bolts holding caliper on and pull up as hard as you can on the caliper. Wiggling back and forth at the same time helps.
Posted on Aug 02, 2008
SOURCE: cant find spark plugs
To do the job to factory specs, you'll also need a torque wrench--a little 3/8" drive one that can handle 8-20 N-m and will fit in tight spaces is the way to go--some anti-seize compound for the spark plug threads, some silicone grease for the O-rings on the coils, and a source of compressed air. I really needed the compressed air. There was a bunch of dirt in the rear plug holes on both sides I wouldn't have wanted in my engine.
To get access to everything, remove the 10 mm bolt on either side of the resonator, release the four spring clips on the air filter box, release the the air filter box cover from the hooks on the engine side, then lift the front of the resonator to remove the plastic pin from the rubber grommet at the front of the resonator and work the resonator out of the rubber gasket that connects it to the throttle body. There is no clamp holding the resonator to the throttle body gasket, it just has a friction fit. Set the whole resonator/hose/air filter box top assembly aside. Stuff a clean shop rag in the throttle body gasket to keep dust from blowing into the throttle body. Remove the air filter and put it in a clean spot for the same reason. You may want to remove the left hand Allen screw on the resonator bracket and loosen the right hand screw so you can swivel the resonator bracket up out of the way to access the #1 coil nut with a socket.
Do one coil/plug at a time so there is no way you can drop a part in a cylinder! Unplug the connector to the coil by pushing down on the release on the top of the plug and sliding them out of the coil.
After removing the 10 mm nut that holds each coil in place, use compressed air to blow out all the dust around the coil, then remove the coil (pull up gently with a little twisting motion back-and-forth) and blow all the dust around the spark plug out so you don't get anything nasty down in the cylinders.
Your OEM plugs are NGK ZFR6F-11G, gapped at 0.042-0.044, Use the anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads so you can get them out next time. Finger-thread the plugs until they are snug, then torque them to 20 N-m.
A thin coat of the silicone grease goes on the O-ring on the coil to make it easier to install in the cylinder head and to make the O-ring last longer. Install the coil on the plug, then put the 10 mm nut back on to fasten the coil down. Torque the coil nut to 8 N-m. Re-connect the connector, and go on to the next plug.
If you have the right tools, this job is easier than doing it with an old distributor/plug wires setup, and the whole thing will cost you less than $20 including the plugs, the anti-seize and the silicone grease.
Good luck and hope this helps
Posted on May 25, 2009
Having the proper length socket is a must. I assume you are talking about the # 5 and 7 cylinders. We just changed ours today. You have to attack them from the front of the vehicle. We used a elevated dolly but you can improvise with a high stool, ect. Your right hand goes under the brake booster and your left hand goes over it. Most of the work is by feeling for the screws and plugs. The biggest tool you will need is patience. Hope it helped somewhat. JW Stevens
Posted on Aug 12, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks that worked well."
im thinking .50mm but im not sure about that to check look under your hood on the little white sticker with the engine specs on it and this should tell you what the gap is.
Posted on Jun 18, 2010
Located between the valve covers and intake manifold, each has it's own indivdual coil on top held in place with a 10mm bolt
Posted on Feb 18, 2011
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