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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
1. points not opening or closing
2. Bad condenser
3 bad rotor or cap
4. Bad coil
5. Not likely but could be just a bad wire from the switch to the coil.
First you need to know if you have voltage to the coil -- if yes- go to 6.
if no -- go to 7 ..
6. Put a piece of thick paper between the points contacts, then check for voltage at the points from the coil . If there is voltage at the points ,, check the gap with the points wiper set on the high side of the lobe on the cam in the distributor . A gap of .015-.018 is most common on that engine.
7. If no voltage then back track to the ignition switch ,, fuse box , then battery
I put a plug wire in the coil output to the distributor and a plug in the other end -- lay plug on block and crank engine .. If there is spark at the plug , your in the ball game . If the spark is orange change capacitor if blue spark good to go . you might want to clean and gap your plugs before you reinstall them .
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
Yes you will need the following:
Water pump gasket
Timing cover gasket
Lifter removal tool
Puller for harmonic balancer
Cam installation tool/removal tool
I also would recommend replacing the timing chain and timing gears since you are going to have to take the timing chain off anyhow.
You will also need the associated tools to do the job, plenty off rachets, box wrenches and such.
If you are doing mechanical lifters you will also a feeler gauge to measure the valve clearance and make adjustments.
I cant think of anything else off the top of my head.
If you are doing a cam with more lift then I would recommend replacing your valve springs as well, it is easy and it will assure you do not incur valve float. You will have to take the rockers off when you install the new lifters because you have to remove the pushrods. I also recommend you replace the pushrods while you are at it, they are cheap. You will need a valve spring compressor and new valve springs and locks, they are pretty cheap.
Posted on Apr 10, 2010
If the engine is not apart, there isn't any real way to tell but if you remove a valve cover, on a solid lifter cam, when the engine is turned, there should be one time, when the lifter is on the heel of the cam lobe a bit past the time when the valve you are watching has closed, that you should have about 16 thousandths or more clearance between the rocker and the valve stem (called lash) A hydraulic lifter is always in contact with no gap.(though you may get a false reading if a lifter is bleeding down)
if the engine is apart enough to see the top of the lifters, a hydraulic lifter has a wire clip in the top that holds the hydraulic piston inside from popping out too far. A solid lifter does not have a clip because it dosen't need one (that's why it's solid)
Unfortunately, to know WHICH cam you have, you'd need to remove it as the manufacturer and grind numbers are usually stamped on the back end. (generally 16thousandths lash on intakes and 18 thousandths on exhaust will put you in the "ball-park" though).
Posted on Apr 26, 2010
You can't do this, the system is set up for hydraulic as far as the fuel injection control modules programming goes, also how would you adjust them, there is no provision for that on the engine you have.
Posted on Apr 06, 2012
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