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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
After reading some of the fixes here and on other forums,i bought a vacuum actuator and a transfer case switch.My mechanic came to fit these today,replaced the actuator and it didnt do anything.Turned out the old one was o.k..He couldnt find where the case switch went ,so he started tracing the vacuum pipes.
Guess what? he found not one ,but two broken pipes.he replaced/shortened these and hey presto,i now have 2,4 hi,4low and auto all working again.
It may be worth checking the vacumm pipes before buying other parts.
Just a thought...........
Posted on Dec 10, 2008
Most important thing you need to do is to establish the actual oil pressure. put a mechanical gauge on the engine and read real oil pressure. If pressure is low (min is 15psi, I prefer to see at least 20 at idle) there is an internal problem...bearings etc. If pressure is good, sending unit has failed...replace it. I would not drive it 'till the oil pressure is verified as being safe. You might get lucky and someone just forgot to plug in the sending unit, but it must be checked!!!
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
I would check the oil pressure sensor and the oil pump itself. You can take the sensor out and use a mechanical gauge to check the oil pressure. If the oil pressure is within specs, you need a new sensor, if not, you need a new pump.
Posted on Apr 13, 2009
That is normal, my truck , if it had a light , it would be on, the gauge goes to about 0 when idling and flies right back up when going, When it stops moving is when I'll get worried about it. You might try heavier oil this summer and see if that changes anything. Go with a 10w40. If you are already using this, try straight 40 one time. Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 14, 2010
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