Im working on a yale forklift with a mazda 2.2L and after replacing the regulator, spark plugs, spark plugs cables, distributor cap and rotor....it will only start when I juice it with starting fluid...also my forward progress and reverse is very slow and it is showing the code mentioned above on the dash display
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On the distributor cap on each HT Lead connection there is a number presenting the spark plug connection with the cap. if the distributor cap has only the number "1" and not on the other hole for the HT lead connection then you fit the spark plug one lead and following the clockwise rotation fit the other HT leads. 1 for first spark plug,2-for second spark plug etc. First spark plug is fro the front of timing belt side. Good Luck!
I guess you could have the ignition analyzed on an oscilloscope. Maybe a tech could see something then. I always heard the only gap was the spark plug gap-the rotor has no gap-are you sure you got the correct rotor? And does it touch the top distributor cap coil wire tower?
Let us know. It is a mystery worthy of a solution.
Replace the distributor cap and rotor. If you have fire from the coil but not from the distributor cap, you have a bad contact point between the cap and rotor. Replace both and you should be good to go,, if the information that you have supplied is correct.
You've already eliminated the spark plug & wireset, distributor cap & rotor. Sounds like your car needs a tune-up, specifically, the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve, and/of the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve.
Components checked/replaced during a tune-up are: air filter motor oil motor oil filter breather filter fuel filter(s) fuel strainer PCV valve EGR valve spark plugs spark plug wires ECM or distributor cap & rotor cabin air filter transmission oil filter transmission oil engine coolant check all vacuum hoses and lines
Troubleshooting the no-start condition - from the 1990 Mitsu Mighty Max Repair Manual:
Priority Action Part Type -- Cause 1 Inspect Battery -- Battery Discharged or Faulty. 2 Inspect Battery Cable -- Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable. 3 Inspect Distributor Cap -- Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned. 3 Inspect Fuel Filter -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter. 5 Inspect Ignition Coil -- Faulty Ignition Coil. 6 Inspect Wireset -- Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s). 7 Inspect Spark Plug -- Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s). 8 Inspect Starter -- Starter Motor Faulty. 9 Inspect Fuel Pump -- Low Fuel Pressure. 10 Inspect Solenoid Switch -- Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch. 11 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay -- Faulty Fuel Pump Relay. 12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator -- Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator. 13 Inspect Ignition Switch -- Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch. 14 Inspect Starter Drive -- Faulty Starter Drive. 15 Inspect Fuel Injector -- Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors. 16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat. 17 Inspect Engine Control Computer -- Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC. 18 Inspect Fuel Tank -- Fuel Tank Empty. 19 Inspect Carburetor -- Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke. 20 Inspect Distributor -- Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.
I have had this issue with older mazda GLC cars as well.
The usual cause is water getting into the distributor cap and not allowing contacts to be made to the spark plugs.
Where all the spark plug wires come together, is the distributor cap, unclip the cap and I am betting you will see water and or condensation. Wipe off the cap and rotor and this will hopefully solve the issue. Best bet is to replace the cap and rotor about 30$ total. This will give you a new rubber seat and water should bot make its way in.
Let me know via way of feedback if this solution helps you out.
sounds like your rotor is bad, it does happen, and that would explain no spark to ignition wires to the plugs-look inside the distributor cap too, and replace it if you see moisture, hairline cracks, or the terminals are badly oxidized.
1 remove the cable from the coil to the distributor. check this agains earth, when you turn the engine over.
if spark, suspect rotor arm is not setting spark to each spark plug lead. open distributor and clean the rotor arm with a cloth or wire wool not sand paper as this will take off too much and cause a problem
2 check inside distributor for moisture. spray inside with WD40 or equiventy water repelent.
3 if not spark at coil open distriutor cap and with ignition on, open and close points in distributor with a screw driver and check coil again against earth again if you get sparh, problem is points not opening and closing.
4 turn over engine with distributor cover removed to see if rotor arm is moving if not then cam drive to distributor is defective. this controls points and rotor arm.
if rotor arm turning and spark at points but no spark at coil suspect Low tension wiring or coil needs replacement.
take the spark plug out of the hole on the engine. the very front plug. have someone bump the engine for you. take the cap off of the distributor, and when your friend bumps the engine watch the way the rotor is turning. i think its counterclock wise. but anyway, hold your finger over the spark plug hole and have the friend bump -bump- bump the key until the air pressure "Pssst" blows your finger out of the hole. thats the compression stroke of your engine. and right now its set to send a spark to that #1 piston. SO look at the rotor, and pay attention to what direction the rotor is pointed. and when you put your distributor cap back on, your wire for #1 spark plug has to be pointed at the rotors tip, to get spark. so put cap back on, and then put #1 at the rotor tip, and remember what direction the rotor spins ? now put your spark plug wires on the cap to match the "firing order" The firing order is 1-3-4-2 with the cylinder closest to the front of the vehicle being #1 so if the rotor spins backwards . wherever the rotor tip is now ( since you bumped it to the compresson stroke ) on the #1 cylinder, you know where 1 is. now put #3 piston wire on the next plug, on the distributor then 4 , then 2. tighten everything, put the spark plug back in. and start your truck bro.
Remove the distributor cap, so that the rotor is visible. Have an assistant turn the ignition to crank the engine over. If the rotor does not turn when the engine is cranking, then you need a timing belt or chain.