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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: no brakes
When bleeding the fronts and the pedal does not go down all the way, stand on the pedal HARD and see if it won't go down then...
The proper sequence is to bleed fronts FIRST... if you had done this, you probably could have avoided this problem... but no worry, it is just a nuisance!
If you still have a problem after trying this, you might have a master cylinder problem... the seals to the fronts might be leaking, not able to build pressure...
So try this and let me know how it goes, and DON't FORGET: Your rating is my ONLY compensation for helping you!
Posted on Jul 08, 2008
SOURCE: abs system malfunction
I WOULD RECOMMEND THE ABS BE SELF TESTED BY A FORD DEALER, A FAULT CODE WILL BE PRESENT THAT WILL LEAD IN THE DIRECTION TO REPAIR THE PROBLEM.
THE 2nd PROBLEM SOUNDS LIKE WARPED FRONT BRAKE ROTORS.
Posted on Nov 09, 2008
SOURCE: car would not stop
You need to have your brakes checked TODAY. They at least need the air bled out of them and adjusted but possibly you need a wheel cylinder ir caliper rebuilt or replaced. You have a leak somewhere.
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
What happens is if you have a bad front wheel bearing when you brake that wheel will turn in or out,when this happens it throws the four wheel alignment out and since this is a solid rear axle,it's forcing it to flex on the suspension,wich could cause the rear tires to bite on the outside edge of one tire and the inside edge of the other,thats one possible the other would be that the rear brakes are are not slowing the wheels evenly causing the same issue.I saw this problem with a bad front wheel bearing on a Nissan Pathfinder but not as pronouced due to the independent rear suspension. Check the front wheel bearings,which of course will mean getting the calipers off the rotors,and then check for any movement in the rotor,if there is check the hub nut,if it's loose tighten it and check for play in the rotor if there is still play that's going to be caused by a bad bearing.You can check the braking in the rear with a simple spring scale(like the ones used for fishing),with the wheels removed have someone apply enough pedal pressure to just engage the brakes but still allow movement attach the scale hook to a wheel stud and pull until it starts to move and note how many pounds of pressure it takes to move the hub.If it's uneven chech your adjusters and even them if needed and then retest,if still uneven you'll need to bleed them again.As far as the dark black substance in the fluid I would say you may gotten a contaminent in the fluid.Brake fluid gets kind of a rusty reddish residue when it breaks down.If I missed anything or you need clarification don't hesitate to ask I'm home all day.Hope this helps solve your problem.
Posted on May 05, 2009
One of the sensors has gone bad and needs to be replaced, the other thing to that would also do that is the ABS sensor is dirty or needs to be re gaped to the speed ring on the hub. There was a issue bulletin with your Tahoe on the ABS activating under 8 km/h. Good luck and hope this helps, if not clean out the sensor with brake parts cleaner and check the wire harness and ABS sensor bracket. Re gap the sensor to the speed ring hub. Here is the bulletin. Anti lock Brake (ABS) Activation at Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting Surface) #03-05-25-007C - (05/16/2006) 2001-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
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