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2015 Jetta brkes faied to lock up. No pulsation of the pedal rear ended a car when the car should have stopped

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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WildBill49
  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: no brakes

Hi Robert!

When bleeding the fronts and the pedal does not go down all the way, stand on the pedal HARD and see if it won't go down then...

The proper sequence is to bleed fronts FIRST... if you had done this, you probably could have avoided this problem... but no worry, it is just a nuisance!

If you still have a problem after trying this, you might have a master cylinder problem... the seals to the fronts might be leaking, not able to build pressure...

So try this and let me know how it goes, and DON't FORGET: Your rating is my ONLY compensation for helping you!

Thanks!
WildBill

Posted on Jul 08, 2008

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emissionwiz
  • 76109 Answers

SOURCE: abs system malfunction

I WOULD RECOMMEND THE ABS BE SELF TESTED BY A FORD DEALER, A FAULT CODE WILL BE PRESENT THAT WILL LEAD IN THE DIRECTION TO REPAIR THE PROBLEM.
THE 2nd PROBLEM SOUNDS LIKE WARPED FRONT BRAKE ROTORS.

Posted on Nov 09, 2008

  • 2976 Answers

SOURCE: car would not stop

You need to have your brakes checked TODAY. They at least need the air bled out of them and adjusted but possibly you need a wheel cylinder ir caliper rebuilt or replaced. You have a leak somewhere.

Posted on Feb 04, 2009

yotaguy
  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: pulsation in brake pedal and rear end hops during braking

What happens is if you have a bad front wheel bearing when you brake that wheel will turn in or out,when this happens it throws the four wheel alignment out and since this is a solid rear axle,it's forcing it to flex on the suspension,wich could cause the rear tires to bite on the outside edge of one tire and the inside edge of the other,thats one possible the other would be that the rear brakes are are not slowing the wheels evenly causing the same issue.I saw this problem with a bad front wheel bearing on a Nissan Pathfinder but not as pronouced due to the independent rear suspension. Check the front wheel bearings,which of course will mean getting the calipers off the rotors,and then check for any movement in the rotor,if there is check the hub nut,if it's loose tighten it and check for play in the rotor if there is still play that's going to be caused by a bad bearing.You can check the braking in the rear with a simple spring scale(like the ones used for fishing),with the wheels removed have someone apply enough pedal pressure to just engage the brakes but still allow movement attach the scale hook to a wheel stud and pull until it starts to move and note how many pounds of pressure it takes to move the hub.If it's uneven chech your adjusters and even them if needed and then retest,if still uneven you'll need to bleed them again.As far as the dark black substance in the fluid I would say you may gotten a contaminent in the fluid.Brake fluid gets kind of a rusty reddish residue when it breaks down.If I missed anything or you need clarification don't hesitate to ask I'm home all day.Hope this helps solve your problem.

Posted on May 05, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Chevy Silverado anti-lock brakes activate on

One of the sensors has gone bad and needs to be replaced, the other thing to that would also do that is the ABS sensor is dirty or needs to be re gaped to the speed ring on the hub. There was a issue bulletin with your Tahoe on the ABS activating under 8 km/h. Good luck and hope this helps, if not clean out the sensor with brake parts cleaner and check the wire harness and ABS sensor bracket. Re gap the sensor to the speed ring hub. Here is the bulletin. Anti lock Brake (ABS) Activation at Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting Surface) #03-05-25-007C - (05/16/2006) 2001-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe

Posted on Jun 05, 2009

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1 Answer

FEELS LIKE THE REAR END IS BOUNCING WHEN BRAKING THRU 25 TO 20 MPH. DO NOT FEEL ANY THING IN BRAKE PEDAL. FINE WHEN NO BRAKES ARE APPLIED.


usually if you cant feel a brake pulsation in the peddel or steering, its the rear brakes that may be out of true (warped) if disk. Also bad shocks will no longer dampen braking in rear.

Sep 04, 2015 | 2004 Dodge Ram 1500

2 Answers

When breaking, my break pedal begins to pulsate when stopping. Also, the steering wheel begins to shake when breaking.


Usually a sign one of the front brake rotors is out of round. It could also be something wrong with the abs but I doubt it.

Jul 17, 2014 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Brake pedal shakes/pulsates


warped brake rotors. don't resurface just replace them. if the steering wheel shakes its the front, if the seat of your pants shakes its the rear. in most cases the front will warp first

Mar 14, 2014 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

What is anti lock


If you are referring to "anti-lock brakes", or "ABS", it means that when you depress the brake pedal hard enough, your computer recognizes the pressure and pulsates the brakes to prevent your wheels from locking up and the traditional skidding you see in movies.

ABS stops you quicker in emergency situations.

Feb 08, 2014 | 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport 4WD

1 Answer

'99 f150 abs light on and pedal pulsates


Hi,
You may have a bad/broken tone ring sensor on either the front or rear wheels.

You'll need to have this checked @ the dealer as the ABS system usually require FORD specific equipment to test.



GL,
Td

Oct 08, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

When braking on my '04 Suburban, it pulsates like it has a warped brake rotor, but rotors are true (all four), and there is no correlating pulsation in the brake pedal, nor in the steering. Also, this...


Try pulling the fuse for the anti-lock braking system. If the problem goes away with the ABS disabled, check the wheel rotation sensors for problems, especially cracked or broken mounts or wiring issues. I'm thinking a sensor is dropping out when it gets heated by the brake and feeding bad data to the controller. The controller than treats it as a low traction situation and starts pulsing the brakes. If this is the case, you would see an ABS or Low Traction warning light on your dash.

Another possibility is a worn or loose suspension component oscillating under braking stress. In particular, check the shock absorber mounts. You could also have a pad that chatters instead of gripping the rotor cleanly - this may leave marks on the rotor, and would probably produce an audible noise.

Dec 23, 2010 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Strange vibration at the pedal when breaks lock


sounds like warped rotors, if the steering wheel also shakes then that would tell me its in the front, replace the front pads and rotors that will solve your problem.dont try resurfacing youll just have pulsating brakes again in a month or two.

Jan 08, 2010 | 2006 Audi A4

1 Answer

Pulsation in brake pedal and rear end hops during braking


What happens is if you have a bad front wheel bearing when you brake that wheel will turn in or out,when this happens it throws the four wheel alignment out and since this is a solid rear axle,it's forcing it to flex on the suspension,wich could cause the rear tires to bite on the outside edge of one tire and the inside edge of the other,thats one possible the other would be that the rear brakes are are not slowing the wheels evenly causing the same issue.I saw this problem with a bad front wheel bearing on a Nissan Pathfinder but not as pronouced due to the independent rear suspension. Check the front wheel bearings,which of course will mean getting the calipers off the rotors,and then check for any movement in the rotor,if there is check the hub nut,if it's loose tighten it and check for play in the rotor if there is still play that's going to be caused by a bad bearing.You can check the braking in the rear with a simple spring scale(like the ones used for fishing),with the wheels removed have someone apply enough pedal pressure to just engage the brakes but still allow movement attach the scale hook to a wheel stud and pull until it starts to move and note how many pounds of pressure it takes to move the hub.If it's uneven chech your adjusters and even them if needed and then retest,if still uneven you'll need to bleed them again.As far as the dark black substance in the fluid I would say you may gotten a contaminent in the fluid.Brake fluid gets kind of a rusty reddish residue when it breaks down.If I missed anything or you need clarification don't hesitate to ask I'm home all day.Hope this helps solve your problem.

May 05, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

Abs light coming on , turn key off and it goes back out ?


depends if it just a rear abs or all four abs system. check the rear end on top of the diff there will be a wires coming off it. then the fronts you have to remove the wheels and follow the wire that goes to back of the rotors, and speeking of rotors, get your rotors machined if there is room or just replace them. there warped if your feeling the brake pedal pulsate or the car

Apr 07, 2009 | 1995 Mercury Grand Marquis

1 Answer

No brakes


Hi Robert!

When bleeding the fronts and the pedal does not go down all the way, stand on the pedal HARD and see if it won't go down then...

The proper sequence is to bleed fronts FIRST... if you had done this, you probably could have avoided this problem... but no worry, it is just a nuisance!

If you still have a problem after trying this, you might have a master cylinder problem... the seals to the fronts might be leaking, not able to build pressure...

So try this and let me know how it goes, and DON't FORGET: Your rating is my ONLY compensation for helping you!

Thanks!
WildBill

Jul 07, 2008 | 1998 Nissan Pathfinder

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