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How to remove lower bearing on connecting rod in a yamaha yz125.

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  • Douglas Hansen
    Douglas Hansen May 11, 2010

    The pin need to be pressed out of the crank halves. Their is a specific "gap" on each side of the bearing to allow for heat expansion. So when it is pressed back together, if that clearence isn't met, it will ruin all of the new installed parts. Also, the crank halves need to be trued so they don't "wobble." That's why sometimes it is cheaper to replace the crank, and of course, bearings and seals.

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I'm not 100% sure because I have'nt had much dealings with yamaha dirtbikes but I do know that on Hondas and Kawasakis there are no rod caps to remove the rod from the crank, the crankshaft actually splits and the rod slips off. They are a very tight press fit and have to be reassemled perfectly or it will throw the whole balance of the engine off. I recommend taking it to the dealer and letting them do it. I know that on my Honda CR 125 instead of trying to replace the lower rod bearing I was able to purchase a crankshaft with a new rod already attached. Hope this was helpful.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

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I have a 2004 civic making loud rattling noise when i start it or step on gas


that would be your connecting rods or valves rattling if its your valves they just need more oil or adjusting and if its your connecting rods its a spun crank bearing and need for the crank to be replaced along with that one rod and all bearings in the lower part of your engine

Jun 22, 2012 | Honda Civic Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The engine has blown. I need to replace it or change pistons and rings. How difficult is it to change pistons and rings?


It can be time consuming and the end result may not be desirable if you haven't done it before.
--- The following is just a sample of what to do once the engine is torn down: Pistons and Connecting Rods
  1. Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
    1. Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
    2. Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
    3. Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
    4. Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
    5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set. Fig. 5: Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge tccs3923.gif

    6. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced. Fig. 6: The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert tccs3917.gif

  2. Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
  3. Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps. Fig. 7: Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston tccs3222.gif

  4. Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage. Fig. 8: Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer tccs3914.gif

  5. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
  6. Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
  7. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
  8. Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
  9. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
  10. Prime and install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.
  11. Install the auxiliary/balance shaft(s)/assembly(ies).
OHV Engines CAMSHAFT, LIFTERS AND TIMING ASSEMBLY
  1. Install the camshaft.
  2. Install the lifters/followers into their bores.
  3. Install the timing gears/chain assembly.
CYLINDER HEAD(S)
  1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
  2. Assemble the rest of the valve train (pushrods and rocker arms and/or shafts).
OHC Engines CYLINDER HEAD(S)
  1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
  2. Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.
Engine Covers and Components Install the timing cover(s) and oil pan. Refer to your notes and drawings made prior to disassembly and install all of the components that were removed. Install the engine into the vehicle. Engine Start-up and Break-in STARTING THE ENGINE Now that the engine is installed and every wire and hose is properly connected, go back and double check that all coolant and vacuum hoses are connected. Check that your oil drain plug is installed and properly tightened. If not already done, install a new oil filter onto the engine. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of engine oil. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water.
  1. Connect the vehicle battery.
  2. Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle OFF. WARNING
    Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the system.
  3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
  4. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
  5. At this point any necessary checks or adjustments can be performed, such as ignition timing.
  6. Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed. prev.gif next.gif

Oct 17, 2010 | 1995 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer

Replacing crankshaft pulley/balancer assy procedure. 1994 Merc Topaz 2.3 4cyl.


Crankshaft and Main Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION NOTE: When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. CAUTION
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your and and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used. 2.3L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the cooling system and engine crankcase.
  3. Remove the engine from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the crankshaft front pulley, front cover, timing chain and sprockets, cylinder head, oil pan, oil pump and intermediate driveshaft.
  5. Remove the rear oil seal cover bolts and remove the cover.
  6. Remove the piston assemblies. NOTE: Mark the connecting rods and bearing caps so they can be installed in the proper cylinders.
  7. Remove the main bearing caps and bearing.
  8. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase, so No. 3 thrust bearing surfaces are not damaged.
  9. Remove the main bearing inserts from the engine block and bearing caps. NOTE: For cleaning purposes, the oil gallery and coolant drain plugs can be removed. To install:
  10. Wash the cylinder block thoroughly to remove all foreign material and dry before assembling other components. Check to ensure all oil holes are fully open and clean. Check to ensure the bearing inserts and bearing bores are clean. Clean the mating surfaces of the crankcase and each main bearing cap.
  11. Install the main bearings in the cylinder block. Note that the center front bearing is a thrust bearing and the front upper bearing has a small "V'' notch on the parting line face.
  12. Lubricate the bearings with clean engine oil.
  13. Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage the bearing surfaces.
  14. Check the clearance of each main bearing as outlined in this section.
  15. After the bearing has been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings. Install the bearing cap in their original locations . (refer to numbers on caps). The caps must be installed with the arrows pointing to ward the front of the engine. Oil the bolts and tighten to specifications. Repeat the procedure for the remaining bearings. NOTE: Turn the crankshaft to check for turning torque. The turning torque should not exceed 4.5 ft. lbs. (6 Nm).
  16. Install the pistons and connecting rod caps. Check clearance of each bearing, as out lined in this section.
  17. After the connecting rod bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings.
  18. Turn the crankshaft throw to the bottom of its stroke. Pull the piston all the way down until the rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. NOTE: Guide the rod to prevent crankshaft journal and oil cooling jet damage.
  19. Install the connecting rod cap. Align the marks on the rods with the marks on the cap, and tighten the nut.
  20. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the side clearance between the connecting rods on each connecting rod crankshaft journal.
  21. Install the rear crankshaft seal and cover. Tighten the bolts to 5–7 ft. lbs. (7–10 Nm).
  22. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal.

Jul 26, 2010 | 1994 Mercury Topaz

1 Answer

Changing rod bearings


You'll find that once you've removed the connecting rod cap, that you can easily replace that one of course, so take a small screwdriver and use it to push up on the other bearing, on the side that doesn't have the notch, you should be able to also push up a hair on the rod to get a little slack, but the bearing will slide around the crank and you just reinsert the smooth part first, kind of just the opposite of what you just did to reinstall. center the bearing in the rod, pull the rod flush with the crank and reinstall the lower cap and torque to specificatioin.

Of course, lots of oil on the bearings & crank, if there is damage to the crank, you may want to turn it enough with the cap & rod not on it to polish it a bit with emory cloth.

Clearance shouldn't be a factor but you must torque to the exact specs to get the correct "crush" on those bearings and provide proper contact, while not being too tight to cause immediate breakdown by not letting the oil pass & lubricate the crank.

Hope that sheds some light on it. Crank bearings can be changed the same way.

good luck.

Feb 22, 2010 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

2 Answers

Motor has a knock in the lower part of motor. The knock is there al the time


hello, sounds like you have bad rod bearing, or rod cap could be wore out, try lucas oil if it does not quiet down then you probably have rod bearing going out, wouldnt drive unless you have too. untill you get checked

Feb 06, 2010 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

How to replace lower left front ball joint ?


Removal & Installation NOTE This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.

  1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Tire and wheel
    • Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
    • Outer tie rod retaining nut
    • Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
    • Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
    • Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
    • Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
    • Lower ball joint retaining nut
    • Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
    • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
    • Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
  4. Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
  2. Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
    • Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
  3. Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
    • Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
    • Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
    • Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
    • Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
    • Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
    • Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
    • Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
    • Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
    • Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
    • Tire and wheel
  4. Lower the vehicle
    • Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
    • Wheel center cap, if removed
  5. Check the front wheel alignment.

Nov 30, 2009 | 2002 Oldsmobile Bravada

2 Answers

Change the front wheel bearings on a 2005 taurus


Remove wheel
Remove axle nut
Remove outer tie rod nut
Leave outer tie rod nut on 3-4 threads
Hit spindle area where tie rod is mounted very hard with a large hammer (wear Saftey glasses)
The tie rod should loosen up and you remove it off spindle.
Remove lower ball joint nut
Leave nut on 3-4 threads
Hit spindle area where ball joint mounts (wear saftey glasses)
Carfully pry down the lower control arm too remove ball joint from arm.
Press in the axle towards the trans. out of the wheel bearing.
Place a piece of wood between the shock and inner fender to give yourself room to work.
Remove the three 15mm bolts that hold the wheel bearing on.
Hit wheel bearing out with hammer (wearing saftey glasses)
You may need to break a sweat on this part. Somtimes they are rusted in.
Be carfull not to damage the ABS sensor.

Reverse procedures to install

Sep 08, 2009 | 2005 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

I'm looking for the 2000 isuzu rodeo 3.2L v6 connecting rod bearings torque specs.


1. Check the connecting rod alignment If either the bend or the twist exceeds the specified limit,the connecting rod must be replaced. Bend per 100 mm (3.937 inch) Limit: 0.15 (0.0059) Twist per 100 mm (3.937 inch) Limit: 0.20 (0.0078)

2. Measure the connecting rod thrust clearance. Use a feeler gauge to measure the thrust clearance at the large end of the connecting rod If the clearance exceeds the specified limit, the connecting rod must be replaced. Standard: 0.16 mm - 0.35 mm (0.0063 inch - 0.0138 inch) Limit: 0.40 mm (0.0157 inch)

3. Measure the oil clearance between the connecting rod and the crankshaft.

    1. Remove the connecting rod cap nuts and the rod caps (12). Arrange the removed rod caps in the cylinder number order.
    2. Clean the rod bearings and the crankshaft pins.
      1. Carefully check the rod bearings. If even one bearing is found to be damaged or badly worn, the entire bearing assembly must be replaced as a set. Reinstall the bearings in their original positions. Apply plastigage to the crank pin.
      2. Reinstall the rod caps (12) to their original positions. Tighten the rod cap nuts. Torque: 54 Nm (40 ft. lbs.) Note: Do not allow the crankshaft to rotate.
      3. Remove the rod caps.
        1. Measure the width of the plastigage and determine the oil clearance. If the oil clearance exceeds the limit, replace the rod bearing as a set. Standard: 0.019 mm - 0.043 mm (0.0007 inch - 0.0017 inch) Limit: 0.08 mm (0.003 inch)
        2. Clean the plastigage from the bearings and the crankshaft pins.

May 21, 2009 | 2000 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

How to remove the Harmonic Balancer on a 1995 Toyota Camry sedan?


4. REMOVE ENGINE BALANCER
(a) Uniformly loosen and remove the 6 bolts in several
passes, in the sequence shown.
(b) Remove the engine balancer and spacers
5. CHECK CONNECTING ROD THRUST CLEARANCE
Using a dial indicator, measure the thrust clearance
while moving the connecting rod back and forth.
Standard thrust clearance:
0.160 − 0.312 mm (0.0063 − 0.0123 in.)
Maximum thrust clearance:
0.35 mm (0.0138 in.)
If the thrust clearance is greater than maximum, re−
place the connecting rod assembly. If necessary, re−
place the crankshaft.
6. REMOVE CONNECTING ROD CAPS AND CHECK
OIL CLEARANCE
(a) Check the matchmarks on the connecting rod and cap
to ensure correct reassembly.

(b) Remove the 2 connecting rod cap nuts.

(c) Using a plastic−faced hammer, lightly tap the con
necting rod bolts and lift off the connecting rod cap.
HINT: Keep the lower bearing inserted with the con
necting rod cap.
.

Mar 07, 2009 | 1995 Toyota Camry

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