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THE LUMP ON THE BACK OF MY EARLOBE GREW INCREASINGLY LARGE FROM MONDAY TO THURSDAY MORNING.I WENT BACK TO THE DOCTOR TODAY.ON MONDAY ONE DOCTOR DIAGNOSED ME WITH A SPIDER BITE. TODAY ANOTHER LOOKED AT IT AND SAID IT WAS A SEBACEOUS CYST.IT WAS CUT OPEN AND THE CYST REMOVED THEN PACKED WITH STERILE GAUZE WHICH HAS TO BE REMOVED AND REPACKED DAILY.
Look on the underneath of the steering column and directly under the ignition switch you will see a round plastic molded plug, pry that out with a small screw driver (it comes out easily and you will NOT hurt anything). Leave out the plastic plug then after driving the car all you have to do is shut off the ignition, tilt the steering column up (just like you do when you exit the car), then you take your right hand and put it at the bottom right of the column, right at the swivel point, there is a small access opening about 2 X 2 inches, you put your index and middle finger in there and flip the index finger upwards and your finger nail will go right up and touch against the the button switch, you push it with your fingernail (you wont hurt anything, button moves easy and it only presses in about 1/16' of an inch), then you can take fingers out of the access hole and then you can turn the ignition key the rest of the way off and remove it...I've did this for two years with my Grand Prix (I can't see paying $300 for a new solenoid and take the chance of it happening again)...some online sites show people removing the plug and putting the screw driver in the plug hole and pressing switch button up but after I saw the square access hole in mine I just started using my finger...oh and you won't even get your hands dirty doing this
I have a 1997 SOHC (Single Overhead Cam) SL-1 and it is not difficult at all to remove the Valve Cover. There are 2 small "Star" indentations in the top of large round discs - these are actually screws.
Although the screws SHOULD screw out using a star driver - that hardly ever works. Over a period of time the screws "set" pretty solid and are hard to get off - you end up striping out the star head. I removed mine just a few days ago to replace the gasket and what I did was got a pair of PIPE vice grips (The jaws are round instead of flat) you have to carefully lock them onto each of the round disc screws so that the jaws are exactly left and right - the handles of the pliers should be pointing right in the middle of your chest as you're standing in front of the car.
With the pliers locked, very carefully wiggle them back and forth - RIGHT then left - very slowly and the screws will start to move, when they do then you should be able to screw them out with your fingers or at that point use the star driver.
The reply that mentioned the 10 bolts, and the spark plugs in the middle refer to a DOHC (Dual overhead Cam) Since you inquired about a SOHC there should only be the 2 large round "Disc" looking bolts - one to the left and one to the right.
Make sure you get ALL of the old gasket off of the head and cover so the new one will "Seat" good.
It is easier to take the bed loose and pick up the bed. there is 8 bolts and the gas filler neck too take loose.first you open up the gas door, and around the gas cap there will be 3 7mm screws then under the truck the 15mm bolts are on top half of the frame.these bolts are spaced from front to rear on bo th sides of the bed.then look at the rear of the truck, behind the bumper. you will find a plug that goes to the taillamps. unplug that connector .4 or 5 guys move can pick that bed up and just move it backwards,over the tires.if you dont have the manpower then take a big floor jack and position a 4x4 about 1/ 1/2 ft long. stand the 4x4on the jack saddle, and jack up the bed.pay close attention to the gas filler neck and other things, while going up. just go slow, up and down. you will need someone to watch the filler neck when you go back down
It sounds like the jaws are close. you need to pull on the door latch lever and hold it open use something round like a punch. not your finger. and open the jaws. if the door latch is not bad your door should close and latch normal.
I know five (5) people who purchased the 2009 or 2010 Expedition. All
100% of them have complaints of the headrest hurting their neck. I
know folks that won't even drive their new 2010 Expedition because it
hurts their necks, and the dealer won't take it back! If enough people
tell ford about the problem, erhaps Ford will post a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)
to tell dealers how to fix the problem. It is possible to build safe
headrests that do not hurt necks during normal driving: just look at
the competition. The headrest is not the right equipment to sacrifice
comfort. Neck pain causes distraction and is a safety issue. Ford
should be as concerned about liability from wrecks caused by headrest
pian distractions as they are about the rear impact safety. Complain
check the latch and see if it has been tripped closed some how.look at the front doors and see what a open latch looks like and try to unlatch the rear one by holding the open lever down and trying to move the latch jaws open with your fingers or screwdriver.then spray with some oil.
loosen the alternator and push the alternator to-wards the engine,put your new belt on ,fitting around the 3 pulleys once fitted look and see that the belt is in line.If your happy the belt is lined put a small bar between the engine and alternator and force the alternator out towards the front this should tension your belt tighten bolts on alternator.;at the longest point between two pullys in the middle of the belt move belt up and down with fingers if tension is right it should not move more than about 150ml,hope this helps you.adrian