Question about Cars & Trucks

Open Question

I need to purchase a new silicone seal for my Deni Model 9100. I've owned and used it for at least 15 years and I'm not sure if the newer 9100 seal will work with mine.

Posted by on


Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

4 Answers

What brake fluid is used is most vehicles with abs

A general DOT 3 brake fluid is use in small vehicles

Jun 11, 2014 | 2004 Pontiac Grand Am


Needing a new key without the code

Anyone owning a vehicle that is 15 years or older that has a chip in the key had better make sure you have a spare. GM and most other car companies erase the chip code from their computers after the 15 year period is up and it can run into hundreds of dollars if you need a new key.

on Sep 12, 2010 | Chevrolet Corvette Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Changing thermostat v6

drain coolant until its below the thermostat.then remove two thermostat housing bolts.remove thermostat housing and thermostat.make note position of thermostat before removing it.then carefully clean all old gasket material from thermostat housing and cylinder block you can buy can gasket remover at any auto parts new thermostat gasket.if you have the paper type you need to buy RTV SILICONE to help seal gasket if you have rubber type gasket you dont need RTV SILICONE.make sure both surfaces are clean.then install new thermostat and new gasket.if you have paper type gasket apply thin 1/16 coat RTV SILICONE both sides thermostat gasket.then install gasket to thermostat housing then install housing to cylinder block first make sure new thermostat in place before installing thermostat housing. let RTV silicone sit up about hour before adding coolant.IF THERMOSTAT HAS THE O RING SEAL DONT NEED RTV SILICONE AND THE PAPER GASKET.

Jul 01, 2013 | Mercury Sable Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Is there a gasket needed after you split the front diff on a 94 chevy

There are cover gaskets available if you want to use one but if you clean all the old silicone off the cover and the housing and make sure no lube gets on the sealing surfaces, you can simply use silicone to seal it up again. Best is to put a thin layer on the cover and wait till it begins to skin over, then apply silicone to the housing and put the cover on and bolt it up.Most important is that you don't forget to put the lube back in when you have finished....sounds silly but you have no idea how many people I've seen do that!!!!

Jun 10, 2011 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

In the pass 4 years when I purchased my truck I have problems with the ac unit. I have had this gased up every year since I have had the truck from the company I purchased the truck from and this year here...

Problem is that the "new" R134 is somewhat "thinner" than the older, more reliable R12. Therefore, every seal in the entire system needs to be absolutely perfect, otherwise, it leaks out. I've even seen hoses that will bleed freon though they appear normal in every respect. Don't be tempted to add "do it yourself" freon that has sealant in it. I've never seen any of that work and further, I know it will gum up the expensive equipment repair shops use.
The problem is not isolated to GM vehicles. Therefore, switching to another make won't cure the problem. Only difference is that some, regardless of make seem to bleed off less than others. Why?
I've got no idea. Likely the dealer has gone over your system several times already and found nothing.
Reason being that it bleeds off so slowly that most leak detection equipment won't pick it up.
The most common leak area is from the front seal on the compressor. Replacing the seal or compressor is expensive and there's no guarantee that it will actually fix the problem. So, 'till someone comes up with a better refrigerant, or a way to make the system less prone to leaks, we're all pretty much stuck with it.

May 12, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

Oil leak from rocca cover or cam seal

I don't understand what a rocca cover is, but your two most common oil leak locations are the front cam seal behind the timing belt pulley and the rear cam journal plug in the valve cover.
For a leak at the front, next time you replace your timing belt, unbolt the pulley, extract the old seal with a sharp hook, and press in a new seal. Be sure that the new seal is pressed in straight, and grease the lips before you press it in. Often, the front crankshaft seal fails about the same time, so replace that one as well while you have the timing belt off.
For a leak at the rear, reach back there behind the valve cover with solvent on a rag and clean it up nice and dry, then coat the edges of the rubber plug liberally with silicone seal. Allow to dry. Replace the rubber plug next time you have the valve cover off, but use some silicone seal to secure the new one so it stays in place and won't start leaking.
These cars are prone to valve cover gasket leaks, so expect to replace the valve cover gasket every few years. This is a particular problem if you use synthetic oil.
Any time you have problems with oil leaks, suspect that the crankcase is pressurizing due to a plugged ventilation system. Check the flame arrestor to make sure it is clean and clear. The flame arrestor is between the legs of the intake manifold, generally in a hard-to-get-at location. Also, blow down the hose below the flame arrestor to make sure that the oil mist separator box on the side of the engine block has not plugged up with sludge.

May 10, 2011 | 1988 Volvo 240

1 Answer

The oil pan is leaking from its seal

Drain oil remove appx, 20 bolts from arround pan remove and replace gasket, Make sure you get all of the old gasket off. And use a high tempiture silicone when replacing gasket onto pan place hew gasket onto silicone let set appx 15 min Also place some of your silicone onto your engine block where the pan fit's up to. When tighting bolts do not over tight, this will damage your pans smoothness. Good luck.

Apr 01, 2011 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Water leaking through the seals on my 93 mx5, what

buy and install new seals ar try and see if window is adustablie

Sep 07, 2009 | 1993 Mazda MX-5

1 Answer

I have a 94 camry V6 XLE with 150K miles. It overheated and the mechanic says it's the water pump. But he also says the camshaft seals are leaking and this will make the timing belt break. My question...

94 w/150k? This your call. This vehicle is 15 yrs behind in technology, It's condition mechanically will get progressively worse at a faster rate.In the 70's the life expectancy of the average vehicle was 3-5 yrs, in the 80's,5--7, 90's 10-15 yrs , now 15-25 yrs.. The newer vehiles have better warranties, better fuel mileage,and safety fearures. But, the 94 is paid for, still gets reasonable fuel mileage. What about brakes,tires, transmission issues and overall condition? All need to be considered when looking at 500.00 trade in and 2-00 - $400.00 a month in payments.. This car can also take you another 50 - 70,000 miles. At 10,000 miles a year. That's another 5 - 7 years of service and no payments. Normal maintenance will keep it in dependable condition. I'm not a car salesman and I own a 96 buick and a 2003 silverado. To me, $850 a pop unexpectedly would displease me . I traded in and got 1,000 for a 87 pick up and paid 23,000 for the 03 @ 485.00 per month, Used with 26,000 miles on it.. I had my own business doing well and 485 was hard to swallow. It has 92,000 on it now and haven't had anything serious go wrong that the warranty didn't cover. No major repairs. I think Chev and hondas are the two best if all. Stay away from Fords and dodge. Look over this site and see which ones you see the most of with nuisance problems and a few matorhunt and pecks the dealers that sell them can't help fix. Anyway, Spending more for repairs is your call as is the replacement. Good Luck.

Jun 03, 2009 | 1994 Toyota Camry

3 Answers

Newer oil pan gaskets for Ford, not like original..leaking again

try warming up the engine a little then re-tightening the bolts,if that doesnt work,mark where its leaking and pull the pan back off and apply sealant to that area a little heavier than the rest of the gasket surface,dont use too much on a new gasket,just a really thin coat...USE "ULTRA BLUE" sealant,NOT blue or black RTV silicone,silicone wears out and it can leak after a while..Allow the ultra blue sealant to dry for about 30 minutes before re-assembling it,and clean off all oil from the gasket before applying the sealant,its ok to apply it to both sides of the gasket,and add a glob to all 4 corners where the gasket meets with rubber seals around the crankshaft,but put those globs on right before you put the pan back in place,the sealant has to be wet to squish in enough..i hope this helps

May 09, 2009 | 1999 Ford Explorer

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

17 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Cars & Trucks Experts


Level 3 Expert

78267 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22326 Answers

Thomas Perkins
Thomas Perkins

Level 3 Expert

14405 Answers

Are you a Car and Truck Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides