I'ts 107 and l'm not enjoying 120 in my truck. Besides intermittant the heater damper does not close
"Vacuum lines" generally, as opposed to the particular (probably 1/8" white) vacuum line by right hood hinge are not the problem. There is a tin can vacuum reservoir (probably on right inner fender). Vacuum not holding recirc door when max a/c is on lets blend door and defrost door move to default position under low vacuum conditions. Have you checked your Low Pressure Cutoff Switch (LPCO) ?? It sits on the accumulator to monitor low-side pressure. When A/C stops cooling, does compressor still run?? If yes, and the system sat open to atmosphere at all, the expansion orifice could be icing up. If no, try jumping LPCO w/ paperclip to see if switch is bad when compressor stops. When A/C is turned on, A/C request signal is sent to ECM, which raises idle speed then sends current to LPCO. When LPCO is closed, current is sent to clutch coil. Inline diode prevents. reverse spike when electromagnet coil collapses(turns off). Hope this helps.
As far as the heater damper goes, you will definitely have to get taken care of. Not sure if they are vaccum or cable type on that year. I am going to say that you need your ac recharged. If it is low the compressor will kick in and out. Another possibility is the control panel where the controls are. Good luck
Is compressor running?? For temp door, check small vacuum lines @ right hood hinge. Usually broken there.
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The gas or freon was checked by a professional mech. The compressor is engaged when its producing cold air,I can turn the AC on and may come on at that time or an hour later (in it's own time).Is there a relay switch or would it be in the compressor itself. The system was replaced new 2 years ago. Second issue the heater damper door does not close, the system is vacuum accuated, I have replaced vacuum lines under hood, but have not taken dash apart yet. Would there be deteriated lines under dash as well.
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