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Ive got honda transalp xl 600 v my clutch cable will not tension and is not selecting on clutch lever but is changing on gear foot mechanism

New clutch cable new new release bearing new release rod bearing in clutch casing are good and working and shaft rod not damage selector arm assembly working stopper arm is good

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1596 Answers

SOURCE: rover 600 1997 not engaging any gears when clutch fully depressed

Sounds like the SLave Cylinder has givin up Possible the Reli=eice Bearing I ALWAYS Replace As A PAIR . If you can put in gear by having someone rock the car front to back and it holds well its pretty Obvious that you DO have A Clutch Master Cylinder or Clutch Slave aat Releice Bearing Problem AGAIN These Parts I REPLACE AS A PAIR. Before ANything Chech Fluid Level that will tell the store IF FULL Most Probably MASTER-- If EMPTY then See where it went Look At SLAVE if wet thats the Culpret. --->> I Hope this INFO helps you and have a good Day >> Please dont forget to RATE me ok ? Thank You

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Gearbox on 1999. 1.6 megane sport.

renault gearbox are known to give problems.the clunk you hear might not be in the gearbox sounds more like gearbox mounting i would get it checked first however the whine in fith gear is a differant problem yes i am inclined to agree with you on this one.sorry but it looks like a replacement gearbox is going to be the only answer good luck.adrian

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

joecoolvette
  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: replaced clutch in 3000GT, all new parts, plate,

Are you sure the clutch disc is installed in the correct direction?
Admittedly, I haven't seen the clutch disc for a Mitsubishi 3000GT, but I have seen my share in many makes of vehicles.

The clutch disc may be one of those that will install in either direction. Some clutch discs are made so that the inner hub with springs, can be installed towards the crankshaft, or towards the tranny.


Posted on Oct 13, 2009

  • 11800 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1999 (actually

The clutch works this way: press the pedal, the pedal pulls a cable, that cable moves a lever with a bearing at its end, that bearing presses on the extremities of the disk spring, that spring deforms and lifts the pressure plate disengaging the clutch plate.
In your case the spring is no longer doing disengaging because either the bearing or the extremities of the disk spring have failed - most likely the latter. You will gonna have to replace the pressure plate assembly.
Here's a complete clutch kit
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1998/volkswagen/cabrio/clutch/clutch_kit.html

Posted on Oct 11, 2010

fknstart
  • 404 Answers

SOURCE: Hello, i own a 2002 Land Rover discovery TD5 and

sorry to here that but no it has to come out and change the clutch release bearing

Posted on Feb 13, 2011

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1 Answer

My vehicle will not move when I put it in gear


Are you sure that your gears are actually engaging. Do you feel resistance (however slight) when you select a gear including reverse gear. If it is a manual gearbox, then either the gears are not actually being selected and that could be something like a broken linkage or the clutch is not releasing when you let your foot off the pedal. The clutch problem could be rectified by adjusting the cable, if fitted, or the actuating mechanism is stuck in and not releasing the clutch. Does the pedal feel soft or in an unusual position.
It will be a dirty job to find and rectify the problem so may well be best left to a mechanic.

Feb 21, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Gear lever is not activating but the clutch is fine


problem with linkage cables. get under vehicle and select a gear
manually with engine off, then climb inside, start up with clutch
pedal depressed, release clutch, if nothing happens, problem in gearbox, if it takes off, problem with linkage cables.

Apr 03, 2014 | Toyota Quantum Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I was releasing my clutch and heard and FELT a "snap." It's a 1993 Geo Metro with a 3 cylinder engine and manual transmission. After the snap it felt like it wasn't quite "grabbing" when I released the...


Try a new cable, and make sure the funky suzuki weak pedal
is not cracked or the spline at top end is not stripped.
there are 2 parts here. not counting the shift lever that can fail.
1: the pedal actuator and cable.
2: the clutch actual.

if the clutch lever moves (at bell) 1 inch the (no play) then the clutch is bad.
see that simple test? the 1 inch?
you step on the pedal and the lever on the throw out moves 1inch.
that is all the curator does.


the cables is only good for like 100kmiles, (more if lubed)
and like to break in the center where you cant see, they fry there
and prevents you from setting up free play right.
see the problem here? if the cable is bad , you had tension on the
bell lever and the clutch slipped and burned up.
the cable is the cheapest part and the lowest labor.
why folks replace it last , is a wonder. but see that all the time.

do you understand the free play rules here. on all clutches.
(cable or lever type)
it must have free play, 1/2 inch at the pedal or 1/8" at bell lever.
if not the throwout burns up.
if not, (worse) the clutch slips.
if not the PP fingers overheat and the spring fails, (anneals)
free play.
and changes to tighter as you drive and clutch wears.
if you cant get the free play right ,its a big issue.
the #1 reason is bad CABLE. $25 and its out.

Oct 25, 2013 | 1993 Geo Metro

1 Answer

I have a suzuki xl-7 2005 manual and is hard to change gear does this mean the clutch is gone or is there a easy fix


This is pretty easy to trouble shoot.
first off , assume it's a simple easy fix. it can be.
not 8 to 10 hours labor jerking the tranny and 4wd parts.etc.
hard to change gears can mean many things.
1: cant select. this is common, the shifter tip has 2 plastic parts
that cause the shifter to do 2 things, its loose as heck and
cause , SELECTION failure. that is ,you can not move the shifting
forks inside the tranny. is the reason, this is shifter failure.
Suzuki sells the parts, ,shown in link below.

2: hard to shift , #2 is , but you can not force any gears
reverse is the most difficult. and if you try hard enough
the transmission grinds. this is clutch failure. (1 of 2, ways)
3: if the clutch is failing, called DRAG. (not slip, no noise or chatter)
you can jackup the rear of car, at the axle place 2 jack stands
under said axle housing ends and now you can shift.
proving a bad clutch as it now shifts but in a clunky way.

ok, now we are in the Dragging bad clutch fails.
the first easy fix, is easy.
is called,a "bad clutch actuator"
on early cars this part is a cable (replace the cable)
on later cars the actuator is a MC/slave hydraulic pedal sys..
The cable clutch you do...the.. do the 1 inch test. see link.
on Hyd. do the 3/4 inch test. see the link.

this proves the clutch is good or bad , every time.
if the clutch lever fails to move the correct distance.
no clutch can work, fix the actuator first.
this page gets them all.

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html

Sep 14, 2013 | 2005 Suzuki XL-7

1 Answer

Honda CBF250 - When clutch pulled fully, switching Neutral to 1st Gear bike bounces forward


I think could two things. 1. A sticky clutch from being used for awhile. Are you starting it in gear with the clutch in or in neutral then engaging first. 2. You might need a slight adjustment on your clutch. Particully if there doesn't feel like much tension on the clutch lever.

Dec 03, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My Nissan 95 sentra clutch had crunched and pedal would not spring back, found that clutch cable had snapped, replaced this and now my clutch pedal is still not 100% springing back, it springs back en


Check the spring to see if it has snapped anywhere within it's coil.

Remove the cable and check operation of the pedal and spring mechanism.
If all is well, then with a lever, check that the clutch release arm on the gearbox is operational. If that is also sticking, then you will have to remove the gearbox to investigate further.
If not sticking, then also remove the clutch cable outer sleeve, and replace.

Nov 10, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Ive replaced clutch and gear lever cables but it still is stiff going down throught the gears also had new gearbox on a j2 lantra


1. replace your gear oil.
2. is this an automatic or manual transmission engine? if manual, adjust your clutch release a little higher than usual to let your clutch engange earlier.

Aug 17, 2011 | 1998 Hyundai Elantra

1 Answer

I need to adjust my clutch



Pre 1997/9 models of Fords were self-adjusting via the clutch-foot-pedal. The pedal engages a ratchet system called the QUADRANT & PAWL and is part of the pedal. The mechanism is very similar on older Ford models of: Escort, Fiesta, Sierra, Granada, Transit & others. Newer vehicles may have a Hydraulic Clutch from 1997/9 onwards, and these work differently from the cable & pully mechanism. Clutch-fluid can be bled to improve the ability to operate the clutch, however this is not necessarily a method of adjusting the clutch.

If your reading this article because you have a broken clutch-pedal then please read on.

If when pressing the foot-pedal it feels like cable is broken, or pedal is loose, ...This is symptomatic of failure of the QUADRANT & PAWL 'ratchet' mechanism due to wear of teeth on the ratchet.

In some cases the pedal fails to pull the clutch out far enough to change gear, and may make a 'springing noise'. This is due to slippage on some worn ratchet-teeth, but the mechanism has not reached full failure.
There are 2 ways to remedy the fault.

1. Change the Quadrant & Pawl, using only genuine Ford parts. #Beware of inferior mouldings that are not up to standard e.g. too soft, and do not trust 'pattern-parts' on ebay etc.

2. SHORTEN THE CABLE.
  • Disconnect the FOOT-PEDAL-SPRING to release the slack normally taken up by the 'Quadrant & Pawl' (ratchet) which is faulty.
  • Remove end of nipple from clutch-cable (engine-end).
  • Fill slack with bolts & washers or other filler.
  • Drill hole in LARGE nut & bolt (like split pin but inverted).
  • FIT NUT & BOLT TO REMAINING PART OF CLUTCH-CABLE NIPPLE.

ONLY CUT VERY END OF CABLE-NIPPLE LEAVING AS MUCH CRIMP AS POSSIBLE, ...then clamp the nut & bolt over the crimp. This is less likely to slip or even cut cable.

Clutch-cable should be able to be re-fitted without tools or tensioning the clutch-arm. Final tension of cable should leave CLUTCH ARM & CABLE SLIGHTLY LOOSE.

NOTE : Overadjustment of clutch can cause damage. Therfore only remove a minimum of slack from the cable.

Mar 21, 2011 | 1999 Ford Escort

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