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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
first let me know year, engine code (or at least typ of engine 1.2, 1.4...). and I will send you picture for timing belt.
and it will (did) bend valves, so you`ll have to remove cilinder head *** well.
Posted on Nov 21, 2009
I can't find any information on this car but either way, you can check to see if the valves are bent. Sometimes even interference engines escape damage. Remove all of the spark plugs, poke a long piece of wire (old coat hangar) into a couple of plug holes and find the highest pair Turn the engine over which ever way doesn't go over top dead center so that all 4 pistons are half way up their cylinders. Remove the valve cover and turn the cams so that #1 valves are closed, cam timing doesn't matter at this point as long as all the valves are closed for #1. Now take a piece of fuel line or any piece of tubing that you can squeeze and thread into the #1 plug hole and blow into that cylinder with your mouth. If air passes into the cylinder, the valves are bent. If no air goes in, try this for all the cylinders. Again, cam timing doesn't matter yet as long as the valves are closed for the particular cylinder you're checking. If all holes come up OK, time the cams for TDC and then slowly rotate the crankshaft in the direction that gets #1 to TDC without the other upward moving piston crossing TDC first, then replace the timing belt.
Posted on Dec 13, 2010
SOURCE: I SNAPPED A CAM BELD
mechanic went misisng in action ?? what run off with another mans wife?? ,these cars are not difficult to sort out ,cam caps is 8nm and the head is showing 25nm with loads of funny slacken and tighten procedures ,well start in the middle and work your way outwards alternatly ,which i dare say you know about now i just do three passes here ,first is a rachet pull down ,then a bar then a cup of tea and the third pull down with a bar ,i would imagine around 75nm is the ideal but doing this job for so long i just sort of feel for the bolts stretching ,which the book says to renew but then thats a dealer thing for more money from a job ,start by marking the bottom pulley at TDC whilst head is off then back it down a bit in opposite engine rotation ,then fit head and the cams making sure no1 cyl has the inlet and exhaust valves closed then look for the timing marks ,i have doine quite a few but i can never remember i think these have two lugs on the cam ,cannot remember but i do know one of them lines up with the cam sensor on the back of the head and the slots on the back of the cam are not horizontal with the head face ,anyway with exhaust lobe geting ready to push down and inlet just closed is TDC no1 so look for some marks around this setting ,bring piston up to tdc and away you go ,crank mark is on the flywheel as i remember and its a wider mark than the rest,sorry to be vague but i do so many different types of vehicle i just cannot remember them all because i just work from basic technology and timing an engine isnt a problem with basics i learnt in college 40yrs ago ,Just done a nubria in fact changed the expansion valve on the AC and what a job all the dash out .
Posted on Dec 26, 2010
yes it will bend valves
in witch you would have to have your head removed and hope you dont need new pistons
it will cost you a very large amount to fix
Posted on Jan 03, 2011
I've got a Chery J11 2.0L automatic built in 2011, which is the same as the Tiggo (except right hand drive for Australia).
I agree that the vehicle is a bit underpowered for aggressive overtaking, but I find that it's perfectly adequate for normal driving.
For overtaking at high speeds (we're limited to 110 in Australia), there's a couple of things I do:
First, turn off the air-con just before overtaking, as this uses maybe 10% of the engine power. This will give you a bit more power.
Second, leave a decent space behind the car you want to overtake. When an opportunity approaches for overtaking, start accelerating, so that you're already going faster than the vehicle in front before you pull out.
Only one other thing to suggest. You could maybe try premium petrol which might give better performance. I run mine on cheap 91 RON unleaded, but the manual says to use 93 RON which isn't commonly available in Western Australia. 95 RON is available, but it's more expensive, and for my kind of driving, I don't usually need the extra power. That's just something you could try - I don't know whether you would notice any difference.
Posted on Apr 05, 2015
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