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Front end loader I rebuild the rams but the loader still goes down slowly on it's own. So can the remote valve be leaking through bleeding off the pressure?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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WildBill49
  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: no brakes

Hi Robert!

When bleeding the fronts and the pedal does not go down all the way, stand on the pedal HARD and see if it won't go down then...

The proper sequence is to bleed fronts FIRST... if you had done this, you probably could have avoided this problem... but no worry, it is just a nuisance!

If you still have a problem after trying this, you might have a master cylinder problem... the seals to the fronts might be leaking, not able to build pressure...

So try this and let me know how it goes, and DON't FORGET: Your rating is my ONLY compensation for helping you!

Thanks!
WildBill

Posted on Jul 08, 2008

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  • 156 Answers

SOURCE: 98 chevy S10.Tried bleeding brakes,Front ok,Rear not reacting

Check the master cylinder and make sure it is working correctly and both resevoirs are full.

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

ghost45
  • 1280 Answers

SOURCE: rebuild the front end

Nope.... best solution is find another Elantra and take the front end apart for comparison.

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

  • 617 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Dodge ram 1500, makes grinding noise in the

check wheel bearings

Posted on Feb 05, 2010

johnjohn2
  • 5763 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 97 jetta and when i try and bleed my

When bleeding you start at the rt rear to left rear to rt front to left front always checking to make sure master stays with fluid, also start by removing one bleeder at a time and make sure the hole is clean and free of dirt brake clean should flow through, do this to all 4, then have someone pump pedal 3 times and hold then open bleeder when you close bleeder tell them pump again three times, do this all around until you have a good pedal, also check for leaks after bleeding, may have bad rusted line or bad master but bleed each wheel good first.dont worry about pedal going to floor everytime, just make sure fluid flows out of all bleeders when bleeding. hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 26, 2010

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Mahindra front end loader won't go up. Goes down, tilts down. I think my fluid got low, I put in two gallons, does it need priming? It has the four way joystick control. Four hoses in/ out.


using the controls will bleed any air out
souns like a piston seal has failed allowing pressure to expand the rod to by pass the piston

May 13, 2017 | Mahindra Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have an 01 GMC Jimmy 4.3L 4WD & we are trying to bleed the brakes but the scanner says my vehicle is going 3MPH so we manually bleed the brakes but the pedals still easily is pushed to the floor.


Bad master cylinder . What are you using a scan tool for ? No need Unless your Installing a new Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) or new Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Caution in the Preface section.
Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in the Preface section.
Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations.
If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.
3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3-3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3-3.8.
3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.
Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8-10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the right front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
21.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.
21.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
Important: If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.
If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes

Feb 26, 2017 | GMC Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Even after replacing front and rear brakes, the pedal goes nearly to the floor (but does stop the vehicle). What do I need to do


Brake booster has gone bad or u have a vacuum leak. Check the seals for leaks around booster where the. Fluid goes in the plastic holder. Check for vacuum leak going to break booster

Apr 15, 2015 | 1999 Plymouth Breeze

1 Answer

Brake pedal goes to floor after fixing leak in line and bleeding brakes


neither is bad. The proportioning valve is kicked and they can sometimes be a bear to re center. Here's the best way I've had success doing that. Before you try opening up any more bleeder screws you, 1)top off the brake fluid reservoir, 2) slowly pump the brake pedal, not all the way to the floor and without the engine running but with the key on, about 20 to 30 times. After you do that you very quickly hit the brake pedal very hard but not all the way to the floor. The repeated slow pumping of the pedal will very slowly put pressure into the line, even if it's air it will compress a little at a time and when you jab the pedal that one time at the end it will re-center the valve. Now here's the key. If the brake light is on it should shut off when that valve centers itself. That's when you must bleed the air out but whoever you have helping you tell them not to push the pedal all the way to the floor again or the valve will pop again. Open the bleeder to the caliper that had the blown line and then have them push slowly down on the pedal only half way to the floor and then stop pushing and hold position til you tighten the bleed screw. After you close the bleeder screw they can let up and do it again. If he pushes it to the floor and you hear a click that means the valve kicked again and you need to start over. Time consuming, yes but it works. I hope this makes sense. Sometimes it's hard to relay what I do to words on paper,.
Dale

Feb 23, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

On my 78' Chevrolet c60 my brakes are going to the floor. I keep bleeding them and the air goes right back in as fast as I can get it out. If it sits it will leak all the fluid out. But the fluid is...


its obvously draging air in from somewere so to start with replace the bleeder valve under the hood, top up fluid bleed again.have somebody slowly pump the brakes then check all pipes and joints,hoses for sighns of leaks, if you find a leak that is the most likely spot were air is entering the system.

Sep 06, 2011 | Chevrolet Chevy Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I changed the brake pads but the brake pedal goes alway to the floor itried bleeding the driver side tire but every time i step on the pedal with the bolt all the way tightened it is still sucking in air....


Normally changing the brake pads doesn't require brake bleeding.

If the valve is tightened all the way clockwise and it is still drawing in air, you might want to get a new bleeder valve from the Help! section of the auto parts store or via some online parts house.

There are several ways to bleed auto brakes.

  • Most auto parts stores sell 1-person bleeder devices that have a check valve at the end of a hose that fits over the bleed valve. These work so-so in my experience.
  • Another option is to use a vacuum bleeder to **** air and fluid out of the brake lines at each corner. The one I tried worked so-so.
  • So far the best method I've found is 2-person. One person holds the brake pedal down while the other releases the bleed valve and closes it up again. Some folks suggest repeatedly pumping the pedal prior to bleeding others recommend against it. I had the best result without repeated pumping and by slowly depressing the brake pedal rather than quickly slamming it to the floor.

Lastly, the correct order in which to bleed brakes is starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear) and working your way closer (left rear, right front, left front). You have to bleed ALL four corners.

Also, if your vehicle has both drum and disc brakes, it most likely has a proportioning valve. You'll need to check the service manual or Haynes/Chilton manual for instructions on how to bleed. On my 86 Jeep I have to prevent a pin on the valve from moving, for example.

Mar 25, 2011 | Buick Century Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace front calipers on 04 dodge ram 1500


Support the vehicle on Jack Stand. Remove the Tire. Loosen the two retaining bolts on the back of the Caliper, 1 on each end, Disconnect the brake line. Install the new caliper and from there you have two options. 1. Let the Caliper hang free and open the bleed valve on the Caliper with the engine running, when you see fluid start to drip from the Bleed valve close the valve then complete the installation. (Make sure you remove the rubber cap from the bleed valve) 2. (This takes two people) Install the pads in the Caliper then install the Caliper. Make sure the brake fluid is topped off. Start the vehicle and pump the brakes 3 to 4 times then hold the brake pedal down. The person on the outside releases the Bleed valve, in this process the brake pedal will go to the floor, Once the Pedal is all the way down close the valve and repeat the process checking to make sure the Fluid is topped off after each attempt. Repeat the process until only fluid comes out when you open the bleed valve. This usually takes 2 to 3 cycles. Once the air is removed from the caliper and brake line top off the fluid one last time and install the tire.

Oct 11, 2010 | 2004 Dodge Ram 1500

1 Answer

How do i change front brake hose on my 98 audi a4? where is it located?


Its located on the brake caliper and goes up to the brake line,To change just remove the high pressure fitting from both ends [very basic job]Fit the new pipe ,but now you have a new pipe but full of air!.To bleed out the new pipe just open the bleed screw [looks like a grease nipple on the top of the brake caliper]and connect a small piece of hose [must be a tight fit on the bleed screw]with the bleed screw loose and the hose fitted just fit the other end in to a container of brakefluid and press the brake slowly up and down till all the bubbles are gone{dont forget to top up your reservoir before you bleed it!!]as if the reservoir runs dry you will need a special bleeder to bleed the brakes [it requires 2 bar or 30 psi pressure to bleed out the system after the reservoir goes dry]

Mar 08, 2010 | 2004 Audi A4

2 Answers

Replaced the brake booster how do you adjust for


Possibly the Proportioning valve. its where the lines go after the master. it has a bleeder screw of some sort on it. The pins inside wear out and stick causing uneven pressure. Replace or rebuild it if that be the case. Also chect the master for fluid leaks at the end of the piston where it connects to the booster push rod. If its leaking rebuild or replace it. 

Aug 09, 2009 | 1994 Honda Accord

2 Answers

I need to know how to bleed the brakes on a 1999 chevy blazer


Start from right rear, then, left rear, right front, left front. Fill master cylinder. Have helper sit in car, have helper hold brake pedal down. open bleed screw. fluid and air comes out. close screw. release brake pedal. Continue until no air comes out. Move to next wheel. Keep an eye on master cylinder fluid level after each wheel.

Mar 27, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

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