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03 navigator air ride compressor won't turn on. sensors fuses relay are good. compressor runs when hot wired. service switch is on.

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On of the suspension sensors failed or short is wiring

Posted on Apr 23, 2017

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Rear air suspension will deflate but won't inflate. All fuses are good and the compressor relay has been replaced. Jumping out wires at the compressor relay will inflate and maintain height with the rear...


If it is easy to remove the sensor and the plugs are the same. I would try that. That will tell you if the sensor is bad(the rear will inflate). Or if it is the module. (It won't inflate).

Nov 06, 2015 | 2002 Lincoln Navigator

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Passenger side on 2003 ford expedition keep dropping no air leaks


On that system you have 3 ride height sensors. 2 front 1 rear. Disconnect the linkage arm and try to move sensor arm. Should move with little resistance but not loose. If bound up replace,also check 2 remaining sensors. Behind the passenger headlight is your compressor and relay. You can jump the 2 fat wires together at the relay to activate the compressor. The relay has 4 wires 2 fat 2 skinny. They sell a conversion kit to elinmate air ride and have coil struts and shocks. I normally recommend the conversion so the problem doesn't happen again. Nice system till it goes wrong

Mar 14, 2015 | 2003 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

My ELC compressor do not come on buick


When you turn the key on, after a couple of seconds the system should cycle the compressor on for a couple seconds at least. If not, you'll need to troubleshoot if it is an electrical problem (fuse, relay, height switch/sensor, wiring in between components/bad connections) or a mechanical problem (compressor, hoses, bladder on air shocks leaking air).

There is a fuse & a relay for the Electronic Level Control/ELC also called Automatic Level Control/ALC under the back seat in the power distribution block/fuse. Switch out a relay with a similar one and check the fuse for a burnt center section.

There is a ride height sensor attached to one of the rear control arms. With the vehicle safely raised and supported, disconnect the 'link' from the sensor to the suspension arm. With the key ON and engine NOT running, push the arm on the ride height to the compressed/riding low setting. After about 15-30 seconds (it is slow to respond or it would kick on and off over every bump) the compressor should turn on and begin filling the air bladders on the rear shocks.

If the compressor still fails to come on, you'll need to unhook the harness connector at the compressor. Again, with the key ON, engine OFF, height sensor compressed connect a voltmeter to the Dark Green wire on the chassis side of the harness connector (there are four wires to the compressor. 2 wires are for the electric motor to raise the car, and 2 wires are for the Vent solenoid the releases air pressure lowers the car) and ground to see if the compressor is being told to turn on by the height sensor. If it is being commanded on and supplied electricity, and still doesn't make noise or pressure, then replace it off a similar year GM vehicle that has rear air suspension (Cadillacs, Buicks, Oldsmobile Auroras). As long as the compressors are the same, you can just remount it in your car's mounting bracket assembly and save some $$.

If the compressor comes on but the car won't rise, check the air lines to each shock from the compressor, the bladders on the shocks themselves, the filter on the compressor intake or even the vent solenoid assembly on the compressor unit has been known to leak/corrode/stick.

Good luck.

Apr 14, 2014 | 2000 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

Bought 2001 Lumina.. head gasket was leaking. fixed that n noticed cooling fan motors were not running. Replace all 3 relays n ect n fans started working. Drove it two days n it started runnin hot pulled...


I had a similar problem. Is your temperature gauge pegged to the right as very hot? Or reads always cold, even when hot. If it is a 3100 motor their is a coolant temperature gauge sending unit under the air breather intake that is right next to where you replace the thermostat.

Get a haynes repair manual at a parts dealer, Amazon, or your public library.
On the Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo, & Impala FWD 1995 to 2005 it's under section 3-8 on page 3-6. It goes into great detail, and it's too complicated to explain here. If your sensor is bad, but the wires and fuses are good then the fans won't run.

Your second fan only runs when the air compressor is turning, If your ac compressor is not running then the sensor will not have the passenger fan run.
You have to see if the fan motors are good and then the wiring is good, and no fuses blown. You might blow fuses so have extra blue ones if I remember right. Recheck fuses after testing.

Feb 24, 2011 | 2001 Chevrolet Lumina

3 Answers

2003 lincoln navigator. The air ride compressor will not come on. Checked all fusses and relays and they r good. The compressor will run when u straight wire it. Why won't it come on automatically?


I know you stated you checked all fuses and relay and they're ok but The 2003 Lincoln Navigator had two differently (wired) air ride systems. A early production and a late one, and I think I may have a good Idea of what your problem may be and will walk you through how to properly test the system. The early production navigators used a solid state compressor relay and the later production units used a standard style relay. The early ones with the solid state type has been known to have some problems and working for a Ford, Lincoln Dealer for 21 years I have replaced a good number of these solid state relay for a air ride compressor inoperative concern. There seems to be some confusion on the location of the solid state relay. I would advise you to look behind your front bumper on the passengers side of your vehicle (and below your headlight) and see if you have a 4 wire relay that's aluminum and finnd ribs on the front of it and I believe a black base where the wiring connector plugs in. (this will be mounted to the radiator support) if so, you Have got the early production style. I will walk you through how to test this relay and also help you to isolate the cause of your problem. I highly recommend using a volt ohm meter for these tests. I do not recommend using A TEST LIGHT due to the fact that you will be testing a circuit that is wired to the air ride control module, and there is a possibility of you damaging the module with a test light !!! I have been there, done that, NOT GOOD.
Ok with that said: your wire colors should be as follows:
one that's( gray and red)
another that's (light green and red)
another that's (dark blue and yellow)
and one that (light blue and pink).
Disconnect the connector at the relay and you'll be testing the wires in the connector (THAT HOOK UP TO THE RELAY). The air ride compressor and the air ride solid state relay share the same ground which is the light green and red wire.
Turn your volt ohm meter to dc volts scale and attach the black wire (NEGATIVE) lead of the volt ohm meter to the light green and red wire.
Hook the red lead of the volt ohm meter to the light blue and pink wire.
Here your volt meter should read battery voltage (of your car's battery) if not check the (F2-111) 50 amp designated fuse in the fuse box under the the dash on the passengers side (KICK PANEL).
If this fuse is ok, make sure you were making good contact with your test leads into the compressor relay connector.
If you're comfortable with the fact that you have a good connection at the relay connector and your fuse tested ok, then you have a ground problem at ground point G101 which is located right near the mounting location of the air ride relay.
If you had battery voltage when you tested between the (light green and red) and the light blue and pink wires, you have confirmed the power source and ground to the relay.
I should clarify myself at this point. The wires at the relay are as such: The ground is the light green and red wire, the light blue and pink is the fused power source to the relay, the dark blue and yellow wire is the relay trigger source from the air ride module to the air ride relay, and the grey and red is the relay output (battery +) to turn on the compressor. OK.
So now we're down to checking the trigger source to the relay and the relay output. At this point I want you to re-hook up the volt ohm meter with the meter still set at volts d/c scale and reconnect the (red lead) of the volt ohm meter to the (light blue and pink wire) and connect the (black) lead of the volt ohm meter to the dark blue and yellow wire (again at the relay connector).
Now this next step is best done with the help of an assistant!!
While watching your volt ohm meter, have your assistant turn on the key and open and close the drivers door two -to- three times. After cycling the door, you for a short time should see at least 5 volts minimum, if not battery voltage at your meter.
(this is a little bit unclear to me due to the fact the air ride module shows that the dark blue and yellow wire, as a ground from the air ride module to the relay. but does not clarify exactly what value that ground signal should be). I am referencing Fords own wiring diagram.
A solid state relay usally is allowed a trigger source of a lower voltage then a standard relay. If you find you have no voltage reading at your volt ohm on this test, you'll first want to check fuses F2-20 which is a 30 amp fuse and F2-27 which is a 5 amp fuse in the same fuse box as the F2-111 fuse you checked earlier.
The last test you need to make at the relay is checking the relay output to the compressor. This will be done by again using the volt ohm meter. This time you'll want to hook the black lead of the volt ohm meter to the light green and red wire at the reay connector and hook the red lead of the volt ohm meter to the grey and red wire at the relay connector. Again for this test, you'll need to have a assistant turn on the key, then recycle the drivers door again.
If the relay is working properly you should have battery voltage, aproximately 12 volts showing on your meter. If not and all other test procedures results were correct, you have a bad relay.
If you have 12 volts on this test we have confirmed the relay is good and the trigger signal from the air ride module is operating as designed.
If the pump runs like you said (when it is straight wired ) the remaining possiblity is a broke wire between the air ride relay to the air ride pump (this being the grey and red wire) which you can test by switching the volt ohm meter to the ohms scale and touching one lead of the meter to the grey and red wire at the relay connector and the other to the grey and red wire at the compressor (with the compressor and the relay both disconnected). Your reading here should be 0.5 ohms or less. If you have under 1.0 ohms you're ok but specs are 0. 5 or less.
If you have an auto ranging type ohm meter, be sure your reading in ohms and not kilo ohms or mega ohms.
If you find while performing the test from the air ride module to the air ride relay (dark blue and yellow wire) referenced as the trigger signal, incorrect and all fuses all checked o.k. then it is possible the air ride control module is defective. But, before condemning the module, there are a multitude of input signal;s to the module that would have to be checked.
WARNING: Make sure your tests are accurate. Good to check and re-check each test. Be confident of your results.
Inaccurate tests and inaccurate test results= unnecessary parts replacement. Results are large dollars spent when unneeded.
Hope this helps you out.thanks for using fixya

Jan 03, 2011 | 2003 Lincoln Navigator

4 Answers

My suspension is low at the rear ,what could be wrong


the most common problem in this truckr and the Ford expidition is that the rear suspension air springs are leaking, they last about 75,000 miles, less on really rough roads.

Mar 11, 2010 | 2001 Lincoln Navigator

2 Answers

The rear air ride suspension on my 98 lincoln navigator left side has collapsed. The compressor does not kick in. What seems to be the problem?


Could very well be faulty relay, bad fusible link, or a fuse in general. You can trace the wiring or view a free repair manual at autozone.com to trace wires to find faulty device. You can use an ohmmeter or multi-tester to test relays and fuses.

Aug 17, 2009 | 1998 Lincoln Navigator

1 Answer

2001 lincoln navigator rear suspension?


Here is how to tell if system is working.Get into the vehicle and close door. Set ignition switch to on position and move the gear shifter to neutral. After a few secs. you should hear the compressor turn on. If it comes on then put shifter back to park leave ignition on and exit vehicle. Compressor will stop when you open the door but should start back up in a couple of secs. after you close the door. You can then walk around the vehicle and listen for leaks.
If compressor does not come on there are 3 fuses and a solid state relay that controls it along with the module.
The 3 fuses are no. 109(50amp) in the battery junction box under hood.This is the direct feed to compressor thru the solid state relay. The other 2 fuses are located in the interior fuse panel and they are no. 6 (5amp) and no. 12(15amp).
What we usually see though if compressor does not run is either a bad compressor or the solid state relay. They both are rather expensive so I would have an experience tech look at it then.
However If you feel confident enough and have a voltmeter or test light respond back and I will tell you which wires to check.

Mar 12, 2009 | 2001 Lincoln Navigator

1 Answer

03 lincoln navigator air suspension


you need to check your real axle sensor it may have come loose or broken

Jan 02, 2009 | 2003 Lincoln Navigator

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