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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have this same NO START problem...
Began with tach giving readings not exceding 1200 rpm with strange 4000 + spikes.. Cruse control would not turn on or off at times and indicator light would only work sometimes..Had several episodes of excessive cranking to get it to start.. Stalling out while driving and even at freeway speeds.. Pulling the negative cable for 10 min. allowed it to start although with lots of cranking and put it in limp mode which required another computer reset to get out of.. Had thrown error codes related to cam and crank sensors which were replaced along with coil and manifold temp sensors.. Had the 9 volt power to sensors when key was on but the check engine light does not stay on with all the other idiot lights..
I wish people who respond would read the post first..
Original post states,
Cranks,No spark,No fuel pump run, changed some sensors ect...
If it cranks it ain't the neutral safety switch, starter or battery!! WAKE UP!!
Seems the computer is not turning on the coil, injectors or fuel pump for a reason.. Find that reason and you will find the solution to the problem.. Seeing as that the computers logic states are a dealer secrete the poster as I have changed many parts in blind hope that it will fix the problem.. Relays, sensors and ecu computer.. Did a visual check of all harness potential wear spots like where it crosses over the power rack..
Could it be in the wiring harness inside the dash??
Could it be a bad ground??
Can an alternator that has failed cause the computer not to start??
Can a bad oil pressure sensor cause the computer not to start??
Can signal loss from the TCU or BCU to the ECU cause this??
Is there an undocumented kill if the ECU thinks it was in an accident??
I can ground the relay line from the ECU and the fuel pump runs and pressures up and the other relays turn on as well..
This crank but no start problem seems to be common with a lot of 1994-2001 Dodge and Chrysler owners.. All these systems have become interlaced with undocumented safety features that baffle the DIYer..If you have seen this and have fixed it PLEASE RESPOND!!!!
Posted on May 02, 2010
SOURCE: car turns over but will
Well, it sounds like you have spent lots of money on parts, if nothing else!
Before we get started, please review this article: What Else Could Be Wrong?
First, keep in mind that "NEW" and "GOOD" are not the same. If they were, we would have no use for the word "WARRANTY". One or more of your "new" parts could be causing the problem. so please follow these instructions and disregard what is "New" and what is not...our goal here is to find out what is NOT WORKING. I have seen a lot of misdiagnosis because of getting these confused.
You first need to isolate the system. You are missing FUEL or SPARK or COMPRESSION. To get your engine to start, you must find out which of these is missing. You can check for spark by pulling one of the plug wires off of each coil and putting a screwdriver up into the boot and hold it about 1/2 inch from a metal part of the engine while someone cranks the engine over for you. You should get a bright blue spark. When I say 1 wire from each coil, it goes like this: (I am assuming you have the 2.2L engine...you didn't say) Cylinders 1 and 4 are on 1 coil and cylinders 2 and 3 are on the other. So you need to check spark on 1 and 2 or on 3 and 4 -or all 4 if you want a really good test, but you must leave the second cylinder for each coil connected while you test the other. (ie. Don't have #1 and #4 disconnected at the same time) If there is no spark, then we need to diagnose your ignition system.
If you have good spark, then check for fuel. The only way to do this correctly is to get a fuel pressure gauge and connect it to the service port on the fuel rail. It should go to about 50 PSI and then drop off to the specification of 41 to 47 PSI after the fuel pump times out. If there is no fuel pressure or the fuel pressure is less than this, then we need to diagnose your FUEL DELIVERY system.
If the fuel pressure is OK, then you need to check for injector pulse. This is controled by the FUEL INJECTION system. This can be done with a regular test light and a couple paper clips. Disconnect 1 of the fuel injector connectors. All of the injectors have a GREY wire going to them. This is the injector POWER circuit. If you connect the test light between the negative battery post and the grey wire, the light should light up when the ignition switch is turned to the ON position. If it does not, then we need to repair the injector power circuit. If the power circuit is OK, then connect the test light to the grey wire using the paper clip and connect the other end of the test light to the other wire at the injector connector. (Wire color varies depending on which injector you are working with.) The other wire at the injector is the injector CONTROL circuit. The PCM grounds this wire to fire the injector. When you have the test light hooked up, have someone crank the engine over. The test light should "Blink" on and off. (This blinking on and off is what is called the injector pulse) If the power circuit is good and the test light does not blink when it is connected between the power circuit and the control circuit, you need to find out what is wrong with your injector control...it will require a computer scanner that can read the data stream to diagnos. At least by this time you will know if the fuel injection system system is either causing your problem or it is not.
If everything is OK up to this point, (You have good spark and you have good fuel pressure and you have injector pulse) The only thing left is really bad spark plugs or cylinder compression problems. Pull all of the spark plugs out and check them real good. If the electrodes are badly worn you will have to replace them. If you are not sure, you may want to replace them anyway. Use a compression gauge to check the compression on each cylinder. You should have a minimum of 100 PSI on each cylinder. The highest cylinder should be within 20 PSI of the lowest cylinder.
By the time you have gotten to this point, you will have found what is missing. You may have found the actual cause or you may need to do further diagnosis, but you will at least know which system is causing the problem so you know which way to take your diagnosis.
Posted on Apr 14, 2011
Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome to the site. Do you know if you have compression or not? You could have bad valves/pistons causing the no start. Also, have you thought about the ECU being fried? If it was, it would also cause this issue. Do you know if the spark was solid or weak? I am also wondering if you have/had a check engine light on? What error codes, if any, did you have? Is it still on? Thanks.
Posted on Aug 25, 2011
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