I cannot get the brake pedal to pump up,i installed new master cylinder,all new lines,all new flex lines,bleeding these brakes for hours still will not pump up.does someone know what is going on with this daytona? THANKS
Re: i have a brake problem with my 1989 dodge daytona
Id look at the master cylandar again, mayby if it has a power booster could be that, is the fluid coming out as a pure stream? maybe if it has ABS it might be the brain gone bad, do you have a popped wheel cylandar
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Once you have bled the air from the brake lines,clamp off the front brake hoses carefully.Does the pedal feel better now?
Then the pad /caliper fit is allowing too much play.Is the pedal the same?Then clamp the rear hose and try the pedal.Is it fine with the rear hose clamped?If so we now know the problem is at the rear brakes.One common low pedal rear brake cause is brake shoes that do not fit the drums.Remove the drums and look at the shoes,are they showing contact wear fully or just in the middle of the shoe?Remove a shoe and place it in the drum.Can you rock the shoe against the drum surface?Once drums have been resurfaced,the shoes will not fit fully against the drum allowing the shoe the flex when applying pressure to it and this can easily create a low soft brake pedal. Of course rear brake adjustment must be correct once brake shoe contact is correct.To correct brake shoe contact,have your shoes re arc-ed to fit resurfaced drums or install new drums.Don't overlook brake master cyl /brake pedal push rod adjustment too.
The master cylinder is mounted on power brake unit (the big black round canister) on firewall held down with 2 12mm nuts depending on braking system usually 2 10mm brake lines need to be removed on out it comes. Bench bleed new master cylinder before install . Fill reservoir with brake fluid and slowly push piston about 1 inch back and fore until air is gone ( assuming mater comes with bench bleed kit ) then install and repeat with someone pressing on pedal lock line closed before pedal is released again EG pump pedal ok hold it (open line watch fluid come out close) ok let up pump it up again repeat may be twice per line. the pedal should be firm once done.
Booster is okay, you have to bench bleed the MC, first. So, since it is installed, bleed it with a kit from the parts store, little plastic hoses screw in to the brake hose fittings, and put other end under fluid in reservoir. pump slowly, especially wait at end of release, for fluid to refill piston chamber....pump until no bubbles...
FROM THIS POINT you must not allow fluid in reservoir to go low, or start all over again....
Now bleed the brakes and you will eventually get pressure.
You have to Remove the brake lines going to the cylinder, then remove the 2 nuts holding it to the brake booster.
Make sure u bench bleed the new master before you install, the new one should come with a bench bleed kit, u must attach the 2 hoses to both ports on the master cylinder where the brake lines connect to, then run the 2 hoses into the top of the reservor and fill it with fluid, use a screw driver and pump the master cylinder until you can see no air bubbles running through the hoses
Remove the old master cylinder. Use line wrenches to avoid damage to the brake line fittings. Bench bleed the the new master cylinder you have purchased. The parts store will tell you how to accomplish this and sell you the necessary bleed kit (note it may be included with the master cyl.). Carefully install the new master cylinder. Reconnect the brake lines and do not over tighten. Now with a helper, bleed the brake system. Start at the Right Rear wheel. Find the bleeder located on the back side of the wheel at the wheel cylinder. It should have a small rubber cap. Remove the cap and using a boxed in wrench, loosen the bleeder valve slightly while your helper is applying steady pressure to the brake pedal. The pedal will go to the floor and you will see and hear air bubbles come for the bleeder. Tighten the valve and then tell the helper to release the brake pedal and do it all over again. Keep doing this until no air appears. Periodically check the master cylinder and do not allow the fluid level to get too low as it will **** more air into the system. Remind you helper to never release the brake pedal until you give the OK. If he releases the pedal while the valve is open, air will be drawn into the system. Now after bleeding the RR wheel, move to the LR, then RF, and finish with the LF.
before you replaced the master cylinder did you bench bleed it? Not sure of your knowledge so I'll explain, whe you replace a master cylinder you need to fill it with brake fluid and push the plunger in and out to get the air out of it this should be done at least half a dozen times before you install it in the vehicle.