Question about 1990 Honda CRX

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I have a 1990 crx hf that has quit running. So far I have changed the alternator, distributer, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, rotor cap, rotor, plugs, wires, confirmed the ECU is working, fuel injectors, emission control unit, and the throttle body and it still will not start. Before it stopped running all together the tachometer would all of the sudden zero out like it had lost electrical power. Occasionally it will start and run fine then when i stop it and try to start it again it fires and dies immediately.

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  • davidgoehrin Jul 24, 2009

    where are the voltage regulator, battery solenoid, and the crank position sensor located

  • davidgoehrin Jul 24, 2009

    the voltage regulator is in the aternator which i have already replaced, the crank position sensor i believe is in the distributor which i have replaced. The battery solenoid is a new one for me im not sure what that is

  • davidgoehrin Jul 24, 2009

    I get a trouble code of 6 which is coolant temperature and and trouble code of 10 which is intake air temperature. Will either of these cause the car not to start

  • davidgoehrin Jul 25, 2009

    When i tested the fuel pressure i had to test at the fuel filter and it would pump up to 35 psi then slowly bleed off. When the system pressurizes and reaches 35psi that means that the fuel pump is operating properly right.

  • davidgoehrin Jul 26, 2009

    I have already changed the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and the fuel pump relay. After i changed the fuel pump i was able to get the car to start several times and run, but as soon as i would turn the car off and try to restart it it would start and die immediately. When i did have it running the tachometer would periodically bottom out for a second and then pick back up and register the rpms. Is it possible that the new fuel pump isnt working and also would a bad fuel pump cause this type of problem. Lastly when testing fuel pressure how long should the test guage stay at the specified fuel pressure after the initial pressurization.

  • davidgoehrin Jul 27, 2009

    Athough the information I recieved didnt pin point the problem exactly it did get me thinking in the right direction. I did find and solve a difficult problem and this site was helpful when i had exhausted the leads i had come up with. To those experts that did give me advice I say thank you. To anyone else out there that has a car that is getting fuel and fire and still wont run dont forget to check the ignition switch that is what mine turned out to be. THANX

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  • Honda Master
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1990?? yes it has a distributor but it also has a sensor i think in the back end of the engine which picks up off the flywheel ,their is a groove with knotches in the back of the flywheel which can be seen if the starter motor is removed ,well on the opposite side of the starter motor in the engine block /bellhousing is the sensor ,but this depends on the type of engine installed because in europe the model varients can and often are different .these instructions are if you have the same engine that was used in the rover ,their is also another type of engine used which was only honda but then was also used and iam not sure if the pick up sensor is in the same place,yes i have worked on them all but i cant remember everything i have worked on or the repairs i have done ,old timers iam afraid .quick test is too pull the middle lead out of the dist cap and see if you have a spark ?? if no spark then its either a pick up sensor or the electronic module which could be either in the distributor ,on the side of the distributor or under the coil ot incorporated into the coil body ,if you have a spark then its a fuel problem

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Jul 26, 2009

    sorry cant help a lot with this one,i dont think a 1990 vehicle has a chipped key with security lock out ,but from what you have described i think the actual ECU unit is on the blink,hence by changing the pump you have altered the voltage and current consumption a slight amount so it worked for a short while ,our cars in europe still had carb and points at this point in time but some manufacturers were having to cope with increased californian legislation on emmisions so your has mono point fuel injection and possibly a catalytic converter which didnt come in here till 1992 ,Did you try what i said and pulled the middle HT lead out from the centre of the cap ,its the one that runs from the coil to the distributor and see if it has a spark?? if it has a spark then its a fuel related problem if no spark then it could be the module or the pick up sensor ,possibly evan the coil

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  • Honda Master
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DO YOU HAVE ANY TROUBLE CODES?, WHEN THIS NO START OCCURS HAVE U CHECKED THE FUEL PRESSURE? THERE IS A TEST PORT AT THE SUPPLY MANIFOLD TO THE FUEL INJECTORS, LOOKS LIKE A LARGE TIRE VALVE, THIS SOUNDS LIKE A FUEL PUMP PROBLEM BY THE WAY YOU DISCRIBE IT, IF THE MILES ON THE CAR ARE OVER 100,000 THAT BECOMES MORE LIKELY. TO LEARN HOW TO TEST FOR ENGINE CONTROL TROUBLE CODES GO TO LINK BELOW
http://check-engine-light-codes.blogspot.com/2006/04/honda-1990-1995-obd1-code-retrieval.html

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

  • yadayada
    yadayada Jul 25, 2009

    THE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR WOULD AFFECT COLD START ONLY, AS FOR THE AIR TEMP THAT WOULD HAVE LITTLE AFFECT, CHECK AND MAKE SURE IT IS CONNECTED.

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  • Master
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I would of expected voltage regulator, battery solenoid, or crank shaft position sensor.

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

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I have a 1990 mitsubishi might max it wont run smooth unless you keep your foot on the gas and keep the rpms up a little bit and it wont drive cause it stalls everytime you try to move it. ive replaced the...


You've already eliminated the spark plug & wireset, distributor cap & rotor.
Sounds like your car needs a tune-up, specifically, the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve, and/of the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve.

Components checked/replaced during a tune-up are:
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Priority Action Part Type -- Cause
1 Inspect Battery -- Battery Discharged or Faulty.
2 Inspect Battery Cable -- Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
3 Inspect Distributor Cap -- Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned.
3 Inspect Fuel Filter -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
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6 Inspect Wireset -- Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s).
7 Inspect Spark Plug -- Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
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12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator -- Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
13 Inspect Ignition Switch -- Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
14 Inspect Starter Drive -- Faulty Starter Drive.
15 Inspect Fuel Injector -- Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors.
16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat.
17 Inspect Engine Control Computer -- Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC.
18 Inspect Fuel Tank -- Fuel Tank Empty.
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4 Answers

Won't start


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