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Will removing the bolts that connect the back seat brackets to the floor have any effect on the car. I want to remove permanently the back seat on my 2008 mariner. Will I also be able to remove the br

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No that will not affect the vehicle. If worried about it put the bolts back in.

Posted on Apr 22, 2017

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1 Answer

How do I remove back seats?


There will either be bolts that you can see on the floor in front of the back seat or you press down on the back seat hard near the front and push back to unlatch them from the unibody bracket on the floor.

Jul 23, 2016 | Seat Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Remove Rear Seat


Fold the top of the back seat down. My 1990 civic lx has a place to put your key at the top to release the seat. Remove the trunk carpet from the seat back by pulling out the plastic screws. Remove 2 bolts (10 mm) on each side holding the seat on a bracket. The top part of the seat should now slide out. Once you get the top part of the seat out, a bolt should be exposed just to the right of the center of the seat bottom attaching it to the floor. Unscrew the bolt. Now tip the seat bottom up and forward. There are two hooks to the front of the seat bottom. You will have to move the seat back and forth a few times to unhook them and then pull the hooks out of the slots on the floor.

Apr 27, 2013 | 1990 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Need to remove center console to replace seat belt. After removing 12 screws, console is still firmly in place. What else has to be done?


  1. Remove the two oval covers from the sides of the floor console. Remove the four (two on each side) retaining bolts. Lift or remove the front seat center armrest from the floor console.
  2. Remove one screw from the top rear end of the floor console (directly under the front seat center armrest.
  3. Remove four screws retaining the utility tray beverage holder to floor console. Lift or remove the utility tray beverage holder from the console.
  4. Remove two screws (directly under the utility tray beverage holder) retaining the front end of the floor console to the console panel front mounting bracket.
  5. Lift the floor console from the front and rear console panel mounting brackets.

Feb 27, 2011 | 1996 Ford Explorer

3 Answers

Ford Escape middle rear seat belt stuck


Hey everyone--after searching in vain for an entire 10 days, and absolutely REFUSING to pay Ford's $100 diagnosis fee, and their $300 replacement suggestion ($400??), I decided to figure this out myself. And I did. Do the following to let loose the tension that has kept your seat stuck in the down position (though my truck is a 2008 Ford Escape, I have a strong feeling this is the case with any vehicle):

1. Remove the seat bottoms (which are folded forward and upward against the back of the front seats). To do this, find the bars that are bracketed into the floor. There may or may not be a little yellow lever on one of the two brackets. If so, flip it and slide the bar out. If it stops, pull the other side out. Doing this should allow you to completely remove the seat from the car. Repeat with other side.

Now you should have plenty of room to work. Move front seats forward, and you've got even more.

2. Remove your back seats entirely. (Sorry- it's a must.) For many, you will require either one or both of these:
One Torx T-50 socket to remove T-50 bolt (which bolts seat belt latches to the floor)
One Torx T-55 (which bolts the folding seat into the bracket that bolts seats to the floor).
One socket extension (tip: the extension gives you much more torque, and its easier to remove bolts) and
One a 5/8" socket. (See continuation after following tip.)

TIP: if you have a 40/60 split, you have to remove the 40 first! This will allow you room to move around the 60 seat and its stuck belt.

Continued:
Remove bolts that bolt bracket to car floor (this is the 40 seat). I believe there's two: 1 directly below the seat, and 1 that also bolts the 60 seat (you'll be using the 5/8" here)-- Don't hold me to it, though, as I've seen some different stuff. Pull seat out of the way to avoid potential damage. NOTE: THOSE BRACKETS ARE SHARP. WATCH THE LEATHER/SEAT MATERIAL-- AND YOUR HANDS.)

2. Remove bolts on the 60. Though the top part of your seat is down, you should be able to the bolt that keeps the bracket to the floor beneath where the seat cushion would be (and where the upper part of the seat is laying flat). A ratchet would probably be best for this since you can keep the socket in place and wind the thing completely out. I should say here that my seat couldn't have been tighter to the floor. If I got mine out, I'm sure you can, too.

Now here come the tricky, but verrrrry easy parts. They are vital.

1. Now that the brackets are off of the floor, the 60 seat should now be free-floating in your hands, but tethered by the T50 bolt that is keeping the seatbelt buckle to the floor. Remove it. Now you should be able to remove the seat altogether. I had to bring mine inside where it wasn't 15 degrees in my garage, but I believe you'll do these parts in the next five minutes. Do this next:

2. TIP the 60 SEAT UPRIGHT (just like it would if things were back to the normal operational mode). This is VITAL. If you cannot fix it with two or three tugs from here (don't waste more time than this-- the final part is coming), then do this next:

3. Find the latch on the back of the seat that locks onto the latch of the car. Using two gloved fingers (or tools), press the latch inward until it's in the LOCKED position (fooling it into thinking you've put it up and latched into into the truck bracket).
This should have also reset the button or lever that you used to unlock the seat in the first place. Now give your belt a tug. It should come loose like normal.

IMPORTANT NOTE: seatbelt tensioners rely on gravity (thing momentum during a crash) that locks the belt. If the seat is not sitting UPRIGHT (like in normal use mode), that mechanism is going to obey gravity if it is tilted backward or forward (which is why the seat got in the downward position to begin with) and lock.

That's it. Bolt the seats back in, and go buy yourself $400 worth of rewards.

Oct 31, 2010 | 2008 Ford Escape

1 Answer

Where is the fuel pump located on a 92 Lexus SC300?


Fuel Pump REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ES300 CAUTION
Fuel injection systems remain under pressure even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.
  1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. With the ignition switch in the LOCK position, disconnect the negative battery terminal. If equipped with an air bag system, wait at least 90 seconds or longer before performing any other work.
  3. Remove the rear seat cushion.
  4. Disconnect the fuel pump connector. CAUTION
    The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system must be disarmed before removing the fuel pump. Failure to do so may cause accidental deployment of the air bag, resulting in unnecessary SIR system repairs and/or personal injury.
  5. Remove the floor service hole cover. NOTE: Do not lift the fuel pump assembly up using the wire harness.
  6. Remove the fuel filler cap. Disconnect the fuel outlet pipe and the return hose from the pump bracket.
  7. Remove the 8 screws and lift out the pump/bracket assembly with gasket.
  8. Remove the fuel pump lead wire.
  9. Pull the lower end of the pump off of the bracket.
  10. Disconnect the fuel hose from the pump and remove the pump.
  11. Remove the rubber cushion from the pump. To install:
  12. Install the filter and rubber cushion on the new pump and install the pump on the bracket.
  13. Connect the fuel hose and the wire connector on the pump.
  14. Using a new gasket, install the pump and tighten the eight screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
  15. Connect the fuel pipe and return hose to the pump and tighten the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).
  16. Connect the wire, install the service cover and replace the rear seat.
  17. Connect the negative battery cable.
  18. Start the engine and check for leaks. Fig. 1: Fuel pump assembly - ES300 294126.gif
GS300, LS400, SC300 and SC400
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at least 90 seconds before performing any other work.
  2. Remove the trunk floor mat.
  3. Remove the trunk trim cover.
  4. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector.
  5. Remove the rear seat bottom and seat back.
  6. Remove the partition cover.
  7. Remove the mounting bolts and remove the fuel pump set plate.
  8. Remove the three nuts and disconnect the fuel pump bracket from the tank.
  9. Disconnect the fuel hose from the bracket. Remove the pump, bracket and set plate as an assembly. To install:
  10. Install a new gasket on the set plate. Connect the fuel hose to the pump and bracket,
  11. Install the pump and bracket assembly with the three nuts; tighten the nuts to 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Install the set plate and tighten the bolts to 26 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
  12. Install the panel partition
  13. Install the rear seat cushion and back.
  14. Connect the fuel pump electrical connector.
  15. Install the trim panel.
  16. Install the spare tire and the trunk floor mat.
  17. Connect the negative battery cable.
  18. Start the engine; check the fuel system for leaks
  19. Road test the vehicle for proper operation.

Oct 13, 2010 | 1992 Lexus Sc 300

2 Answers

I do not know how to remove front seat from a 1994 chevrolet beretta cp


hmm,, ok,, try this..

1.) look under the seat you will notice two sliding rods,, on this there are 4 brackets with bolts.. its maybe hidden under the upholestry,, any way remove the bolts,, slide any lift seat..

Oct 12, 2010 | Chevrolet Beretta Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I put down my Ford escape's rear drivers side seat and the seatbelt will not let me put it back up. The seatbelt will not release and recoil to allow the seat to come up. It acts as if the seat belt is...


Hey everyone--after searching in vain for an entire 10 days, and absolutely REFUSING to pay Ford's $100 diagnosis fee, and their $300 replacement suggestion ($400??), I decided to figure this out myself. And I did. Do the following to let loose the tension that has kept your seat stuck in the down position (though my truck is a 2008 Ford Escape, I have a strong feeling this is the case with any vehicle):

1. Remove the seat bottoms (which are folded forward and upward against the back of the front seats). To do this, find the bars that are bracketed into the floor. There may or may not be a little yellow lever on one of the two brackets. If so, flip it and slide the bar out. If it stops, pull the other side out. Doing this should allow you to completely remove the seat from the car. Repeat with other side.

Now you should have plenty of room to work. Move front seats forward, and you've got even more.

2. Remove your back seats entirely. (Sorry- it's a must.) For many, you will require either one or both of these:
One Torx T-50 socket to remove T-50 bolt (which bolts seat belt latches to the floor)
One Torx T-55 (which bolts the folding seat into the bracket that bolts seats to the floor).
One socket extension (tip: the extension gives you much more torque, and its easier to remove bolts) and
One a 5/8" socket. (See continuation after following tip.)

TIP: if you have a 40/60 split, you have to remove the 40 first! This will allow you room to move around the 60 seat and its stuck belt.

Continued:
Remove bolts that bolt bracket to car floor (this is the 40 seat). I believe there's two: 1 directly below the seat, and 1 that also bolts the 60 seat (you'll be using the 5/8" here)-- Don't hold me to it, though, as I've seen some different stuff. Pull seat out of the way to avoid potential damage. NOTE: THOSE BRACKETS ARE SHARP. WATCH THE LEATHER/SEAT MATERIAL-- AND YOUR HANDS.)

2. Remove bolts on the 60. Though the top part of your seat is down, you should be able to the bolt that keeps the bracket to the floor beneath where the seat cushion would be (and where the upper part of the seat is laying flat). A ratchet would probably be best for this since you can keep the socket in place and wind the thing completely out. I should say here that my seat couldn't have been tighter to the floor. If I got mine out, I'm sure you can, too.

Now here come the tricky, but verrrrry easy parts. They are vital.

1. Now that the brackets are off of the floor, the 60 seat should now be free-floating in your hands, but tethered by the T50 bolt that is keeping the seatbelt buckle to the floor. Remove it. Now you should be able to remove the seat altogether. I had to bring mine inside where it wasn't 15 degrees in my garage, but I believe you'll do these parts in the next five minutes. Do this next:

2. TIP the 60 SEAT UPRIGHT (just like it would if things were back to the normal operational mode). This is VITAL. If you cannot fix it with two or three tugs from here (don't waste more time than this-- the final part is coming), then do this next:

3. Find the latch on the back of the seat that locks onto the latch of the car. Using two gloved fingers (or tools), press the latch inward until it's in the LOCKED position (fooling it into thinking you've put it up and latched into into the truck bracket).
This should have also reset the button or lever that you used to unlock the seat in the first place. Now give your belt a tug. It should come loose like normal.

IMPORTANT NOTE: seatbelt tensioners rely on gravity (thing momentum during a crash) that locks the belt. If the seat is not sitting UPRIGHT (like in normal use mode), that mechanism is going to obey gravity if it is tilted backward or forward (which is why the seat got in the downward position to begin with) and lock.

That's it. Bolt the seats back in, and go buy yourself $400 worth of rewards.

Aug 07, 2010 | 2006 Ford Escape

1 Answer

How do i remove the backseat in my thunderbird?


Rear Bench
(see Figure 4)
  1. Bearing down with your knee on the rear seat cushion, push the cushion rearward and disengage it from the retaining brackets.
  2. Remove the rear seat armrests if applicable.
a32ebe2.jpg

Fig. 4: Pull the bottom of the seat upwards and pull out
  1. Remove the seatback lower retaining screws and seat belt bolts.
  2. Grasp the seatback at the bottom and lift it up to disengage the hanger wire from the retainer brackets.

To install:
  1. Position the seat back assembly so that the hanger wire is fully engaged in the package tray slots.
  2. Install the lower retaining screws and tighten to 13-19 ft. lbs. (17-37 Nm).
  3. Position the seat cushion assembly into the vehicle.
  4. Apply knee pressure to the lower portion of the seat cushion assembly. Push rearwards and down to lock the seat cushion into the seat retainer.
  5. Check the seat cushion to ensure it is secured into the floor retainer.

Rear, Fold-Down Seats
  1. Push the rear cushion rearwards, then lift to release. Remove the cushion.
  2. Remove the 2 lower retaining screws attaching the seat back to the floor.
  3. Lift up and disengage the upper clips of the seatback from the top of the folding floor.
  4. Remove the seat assembly.

To install:
  1. Position the seat back assembly and align the retaining hooks. Ensure hooks fully engage in slots.
  2. Install the two outboard retaining bolts, then tighten to 13-19 ft. lbs. (17-27 Nm).
  3. Lower the seat backs and install the upper retaining screws.
  4. Install the lower center retaining screw, tighten to 13-19 ft. lbs. (17-27 Nm).
  5. Install the rear seat cushion. Ensure the rear seat cushion front retainers latch properly.

Hope helps (remember rated this).

Jul 01, 2010 | 1994 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer

Remove the back seat of a 1995 mustang conv? how do you release the hold-down clips on the seat bottom?


remove any bolts that are on the two lower brackets on the floor under the seat cushion. take your knees and push the seat cushion back and pull up. the seat should come out

Feb 20, 2010 | 1995 Ford Mustang

2 Answers

2008 escape seat belt stuck, rear middle


Hey everyone--after searching in vain for an entire 10 days, and absolutely REFUSING to pay Ford's $100 diagnosis fee, and their $300 replacement suggestion ($400??), I decided to figure this out myself. And I did. Do the following to let loose the tension that has kept your seat stuck in the down position (though my truck is a 2008 Ford Escape, I have a strong feeling this is the case with any vehicle):

1. Remove the seat bottoms (which are folded forward and upward against the back of the front seats). To do this, find the bars that are bracketed into the floor. There may or may not be a little yellow lever on one of the two brackets. If so, flip it and slide the bar out. If it stops, pull the other side out. Doing this should allow you to completely remove the seat from the car. Repeat with other side.

Now you should have plenty of room to work. Move front seats forward, and you've got even more.

2. Remove your back seats entirely. (Sorry- it's a must.) For many, you will require either one or both of these:
One Torx T-50 socket to remove T-50 bolt (which bolts seat belt latches to the floor)
One Torx T-55 (which bolts the folding seat into the bracket that bolts seats to the floor).
One socket extension (tip: the extension gives you much more torque, and its easier to remove bolts) and
One a 5/8" socket. (See continuation after following tip.)

TIP: if you have a 40/60 split, you have to remove the 40 first! This will allow you room to move around the 60 seat and its stuck belt.

Continued:
Remove bolts that bolt bracket to car floor (this is the 40 seat). I believe there's two: 1 directly below the seat, and 1 that also bolts the 60 seat (you'll be using the 5/8" here)-- Don't hold me to it, though, as I've seen some different stuff. Pull seat out of the way to avoid potential damage. NOTE: THOSE BRACKETS ARE SHARP. WATCH THE LEATHER/SEAT MATERIAL-- AND YOUR HANDS.)

2. Remove bolts on the 60. Though the top part of your seat is down, you should be able to the bolt that keeps the bracket to the floor beneath where the seat cushion would be (and where the upper part of the seat is laying flat). A ratchet would probably be best for this since you can keep the socket in place and wind the thing completely out. I should say here that my seat couldn't have been tighter to the floor. If I got mine out, I'm sure you can, too.

Now here come the tricky, but verrrrry easy parts. They are vital.

1. Now that the brackets are off of the floor, the 60 seat should now be free-floating in your hands, but tethered by the T50 bolt that is keeping the seatbelt buckle to the floor. Remove it. Now you should be able to remove the seat altogether. I had to bring mine inside where it wasn't 15 degrees in my garage, but I believe you'll do these parts in the next five minutes. Do this next:

2. TIP the 60 SEAT UPRIGHT (just like it would if things were back to the normal operational mode). This is VITAL. If you cannot fix it with two or three tugs from here (don't waste more time than this-- the final part is coming), then do this next:

3. Find the latch on the back of the seat that locks onto the latch of the car. Using two gloved fingers (or tools), press the latch inward until it's in the LOCKED position (fooling it into thinking you've put it up and latched into into the truck bracket).
This should have also reset the button or lever that you used to unlock the seat in the first place. Now give your belt a tug. It should come loose like normal.

IMPORTANT NOTE: seatbelt tensioners rely on gravity (thing momentum during a crash) that locks the belt. If the seat is not sitting UPRIGHT (like in normal use mode), that mechanism is going to obey gravity if it is tilted backward or forward (which is why the seat got in the downward position to begin with) and lock.

That's it. Bolt the seats back in, and go buy yourself $400 worth of rewards.

Jan 26, 2010 | 2008 Ford Escape

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