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Good afternoon. I have a 2.6i Caravelle that has no spark as I replaced the petrol pump, the complete distributor, spark plug leads, coil and had the ECU tested and it works fine.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Landyman
  • 89 Answers

SOURCE: rover 214

Check the ignition module next to the coil , this is normally the culprit

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

  • 275 Answers

SOURCE: distributor cap and spark plug leads order/layout?

The firing order is 1342. The cylinders are numbered from left to right 1234. Depending on wether it is a 16 valve engine, the distributor cap lead number one position is at the front on the left, if its a normal 8 valve engine , the distributor cap lead number one is at the front pointing straight at the front. So, moving anti clockwise, the next lead will be number 3, then 4 , then 2.

Posted on Dec 07, 2009

  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: no spark at any spark plugs.

Test the pickup with test meter.

Posted on Dec 07, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: Not starting. No spark. Crank angle sensor?

you my also have a selenoid problem,may sit on passenger side fenderwall.

Posted on Mar 13, 2010

  • 5276 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 nisan n13 motor 1.6, has no spark to coil i drove car to train station, when i got back the car would not start, replaced coil, distributor, ecu box, all fuesible links, plugs & plug leads, f

I can give you a little general help on this. With key on, the coil primary positive wire should have voltage. I think that may be a black/white wire? This is directly from the ignition switch on the run wire. If you have power there, then everything else is in the distributor and controlled by the ecu. I see you have changed the coil, the distributor, and the ecu...check the main relay, it's a power source for the ecu. The power feed to the main relay is a 25amp fuse link (see you changed fuse links, too). Is the ecu on? Key on, all warning lights, and check engine light on?

I cannot find a test procedure for diagnosis. But as I said, everything is inside the distributor. Yes, there is a crank angle sensor, more commonly known as a Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. Essentially the same thing, the CMP sensor sends a signal to the ecu of both engine speed and piston position reference-TDC. The ecu then determines ignition timing-sending a spark signal to the ignition module inside the distributor-then the coil sends spark. The sensor has a rotor plate with 360 slits for 1 degree signal (angle signal) and 4 slits for rpm signal. Has a light emitting diode and a photo diode to catch the signals...it's all sent to the computer. Maybe you got a bad distributor?

Posted on Nov 28, 2013

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1 Answer

My pajero 1999 engine crank but wont start. There is only spark on 2 out of the other 4. Replace coil but still no spark.


4G93 engine ?
runs on petrol

confused
search comes up with coil packs on a 99 pajero

if no coil packs try
distributor cap ,leads ,distributor module






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Jul 04, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2001 f150 the stater coil was bad I know this because I had to play with it and then it'd start I put a new one in but it still won't start any suggestions?


check the wires are correctly connected. replace the coil to distributor wire/lead. guessing the vehicle is gas/petrol.
check the distributor cap and rotor for wear/pitting, if you find excessive wear replace them, maybe the plug wires/leads also. There is not much more than this that I can suggest if you are sure that the coil was the problem in the first instance.
To check, remove a spark plug, insert the top end, in the wire/lead so that the conductor is making with the contact in the wire / lead , place the plug and lead very near, but not touching, a metal surface, then crank the engine over, or get a friend/family member to help, and observe whether a spark occurs at the plug electrode. If all is right in the ignition system you should see a healthy spark as the current earths.
If this does not happen please resubmit the query.

Nov 11, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Wiring from coil to distributor for opel monza 1989


Sadly this is a USA site... and Opel data seems to be pretty scarce on your car...

Simply (generally)... You are looking to see steady battery on your coil.. as the distributer turns it SHOULD BE interrupting ground...

and generating a PRETTY POWERFUL spark...

Use a volt meter and measure for battery = good.

... no battery... back up to the BALAST RESISTOR (if equipped)... measure for battery...
Only now do you need to know the circuit back to your starter switch ("B" and "S" leads).

ELSE...
If you have a clever (preferably smaller/tool (we'll call SPARKY)) assistant... you can convince to hold the spark lead REALLY REALLY close to the spark plug... If SPARKY sees (or feels) a spark move on to the FUEL... FILTER & PUMP.

Sparky would be smarter to pull out the center wire of the distributor cap... that way less likely your assistant will get ENERGIZED...

No spark = possibly bad distributor or coil

Now disconnect the ground side and manually apply rapid ground... test for spark = good coil

Still no spark = bad coil,

There is a tool for that (I'll post it below)...

Now no spark = clean/replace points (& capacitor) or
replace inductor!!

Aug 29, 2012 | Opel Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The car stals when i switch the car of and on again it sarts than dies. i replaced the fuel pump and it still does the same


Hello, replace the fuel filter. A blocked fuel filter will take a long time for the petrol to fill the carbies. Also check out the distributor and spark plug leads as these can short out. Also this: ON CERTAIN VEHICLES, A COIL WIRE INSIDE THE FUEL PUMP RELAY MAY BREAK, CAUSING THE FUEL PUMP TO LOSE POWER. IF THE FUEL PUMP BECOMES INOPERATIVE, THE ENGINE MAY NOT START. There was a recall on 05 model odessys because of this fault.

Mar 23, 2011 | 2005 Honda Odyssey

2 Answers

940 SE Turbo won't start. Seems to be linked to damp weather conditions. but is so intermittent it is impossible to be sure. Fuel pump relay replaced.


try changing the distributor cap and if that doesnt work then the coil in case the coil tower insulation is breaking down

Mar 22, 2011 | 1991 Volvo 940

1 Answer

Cant locate the spark plugs on vw golf 88 mk1..any ideas?


I'm assuming you have a petrol fuelled car, as diesels do not have spark plugs.

Find the distributor cap leading off the distributor - it should look a little like this: http://www.google.com/images?um=1&hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&biw=1920&bih=895&tbs=isch:1&aq=f&aqi=g8g-m1&oq=&q=distributor%20cap

there should be 5 leads trailing from the cap - the lead in the centre leads to the "coil", the other 4 leads go to the spark plugs. There should only be 4 as the Mk1 was only made as a 4 cylinder engine.

Pull off the leads (though not whilst the engine is running as you'll electrocute yourself) and the spark plugs will be revealed.

Feb 08, 2011 | 1989 Volkswagen Golf

2 Answers

I have a Hyundai Lantra '92 with a 1.5 4cyl manual engine.was going fine but now the car will turn over but wont start.I have done the following procedures and eliminated the following. FUEL-Car has...


fancy getting brother to hold HT lead ,i havent stopped laughing yet and i have tears in my eyes ,try changing thte ignition module ,i think its inside the distributor on this ancient vehicle the white box is a radio capacitor i think .thats like me when i taught mechanics i sent this lad out to my transit DIESEL with a spark plug spanner to change the plugs ???

Oct 08, 2010 | Hyundai Elantra Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 1990 sierra has a miss in it when i accelarate. I replaced plugs and wires but not the fuel filter or fuel pump.I also smell fuel outside between the bed and cab on the drivers side


Check out the distributor cap and rotor arm, - and make sure the plugs ar gapped properly - should be 1mm on 1.6 1.8, and 0.75mm on the 2 liter.
Check the oil level urgently, if it has been misfiring for some time you will have acuumulated all that unburnt petrol in the oil sump!!! (you can test this by getting a bit of oil from the dipstick and putting a drop on your fingers, rub together and sniff the oil, if it stinks of petrol change it -you need to change the oil filter too since it wil be full of petrol tainted oil also.
Once you are sure you have good oil and either it was ok after testing it from the distick "golden, clean oil" or you replaced the contaminated oil and filter you can move on to sorting out this misfire.
- You didn't mention if you checked or replaced the HT coil - Check for strong sparking from the main HT lead from the coil itslelf, Pull the lead from the centre of the distibutor cap - have someone crank the engine while there is a "spare" sparkplug in the main ht lead (ground the plug to the engine, holding the rubber insulation of the cable with pliers - Use a normal HT lead if the main coil lead wont reach a suitable grounding point with the sparkplug) - check for solid bright blue spark, it should be regular timed, and strong EVERY time - any missing or weak sparks indicate electrical problem either - the coil is failing - or the battery is weak - or the distributor is faulty. - a faulty distributor would be expensive to replace and more so to repair, a reconditioned distributor costs around £120.
for now I assume the coil checked out fine and gave a strong steady uniform set of sparks. ----------------------- With a fully functioning coil, you're left with the distributor cap and rotor arm - the distributor cap comes off with 2 screws at the left and right sides of the cap between the HT Connectors - unscrew them - (note the original orientation of the distributor cap before you pull it off to aid refitting) you can now pull away the cap from the rest of the distributor.
INSIDE the CAP there are four "poles" round the outside, and a spring mounted contact in the center - make sure the poles are clean and shiny with only light markings at most, if they are blackened, whitened ro rounded and pitted then replace the cap - ford dealers or local part shop, most shops will stock both the rotor arm and distributor cap for around £15-30 - phone around for the best deal.
Still on the distributor is the rotor arm, this pulls off - it has to be pulled dead straight off the distributor shaft - once you have the rotor arm off you can inspect the metal contact on the top for general dirtiness and decay, it "should" be shiny brass/copper in colour. if it looks pretty bad, pitted or blackened/burned- - get a new rotor arm from ford dealers or from local part shop (not expensive)
Once you are sure of a clean or new rotor arm and distributor cap you can try the engine again - hopefully the misfire is gone.
If it is still there....
we are here

DISTRIBUTOR CAP - FINE ROTOR ARM - FINE OIL + FILTER NOT OVER LEVEL + CLEAN, NO PETROL IN IT HT COIL - GOOD STRONG REGULAR SPARK. -----

If it still misfires with all these things in perfect order then you are left with: Clogged Fuel Line/Filter or Failing Fuel Pump or Ignition TIMING - ( 10-12 degrees BTDC) have igition timing checked and set if not correct. OR... Faulty Distributor - pretty much worst case scenario. Tell me how you get on - Often it is the distributor cap and rotor arm - If not I hope its the fuel filter!
Good luck,

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2 Answers

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