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Hi what diameter the see thru hose is that you attach to the bleed nipple on a 2002 VTR I havnt used 1 yet. I have been thru about 8 reservoirs of fluid, still don't really have any feel in the lever

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6ya6ya
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emissionwiz
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SOURCE: coolant leak at the top radiator hose

the plastic radiator tank that the hose nipple is part of can be replaced by any radiator repair shot for about $75-100

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

mechanicm639
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SOURCE: need pic of bleeder valve for clutch

The bleeder valve should look like a brake bleeder valve. Good Luck.

Posted on May 07, 2009

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: location of brake/clutch bleed valve nipple

AHH look for it by the slave cylinder it might have a black rubber cap on it to keep dust out it will look simliar to the bleeder valve on the brake system

Posted on May 09, 2009

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SOURCE: 1996 Acura 3.2TL Overheating Problem...

From your description of symtoms it sounds like you have a bad water pump. If the coolant is not circulating properly you will have a heating problem. Sometimes even a new thermostat can stick and cause the engine to overheat. I have seen them fail in as little as a week after they were installed.

Posted on Sep 14, 2009

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SOURCE: I have a 1996 Acura 3.2TL[V6] and it is overheating...

I had the same problem, whole new radiator, new hoses, new thermostat, and still overheating. What the problem was for me...bad radiator cap...all that money and a $20 fix...try it?

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

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1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on a 2000 Kia sephiA


The easiest way is with a vacuum bleeder. First, make sure the reservoir never gets empty. Raise the car on jack stands. Do the rear first. Attach the bleeder hose to the bleeder nipple and loosen the nipple as you apply vacuum to the bleeder container. Once it runs clear with no bubbles close the bleeder valve(nipple). Repeat on each wheel. It is usually easier with another person watching the reservoir that has a new bottle of brake fluid ready to add.

Oct 21, 2015 | Kia Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Brake bleeding


It is a relatively simple process if the bleed nipple will unscrew but they often seize and can easily snap off.

The process is covered in most repair manuals and do-it-yourself, home mechanic type publications.

There are one-man brake bleeding tools available but the traditional method is to have an assistant to pump the brake pedal and keep the reservoir topped up while the operator has slackened the bleed nipple a turn or two, attached a length of good-fitting rubber hose to the bleed nipple and while the free end is dangling in a clean jar containing some fluid watches for the air bubbles to cease and shouts instructions to the assistant; typically five firm but steady strokes of the pedal and then top up the brake reservoir and then five more if needed. When the bubbles cease the call is for the assistant to hold it down next time when the operator will close and tighten the bleeder.

Mar 14, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace clutch fluid


The best way is to replace all the fluid including the fluid in the line to the slave. Here's how I do it.
  • safely raise the front of the car enough to get to the clutch slave cylinder
  • attach a piece of hose to the bleed nipple and run into a container
  • open the bleed nipple
  • slowly depress clutch pedal. Repeat until the fluid level in the reservoir is down below half
  • at this point, top up the reservoir with new fluid
  • repeat the above process until you observe clean fluid running out of the drain tube.
  • Tighten the drain nipple and verify that the clutch is working properly and there is no air in the system.

Mar 30, 2014 | 1990 Mazda MX-5

1 Answer

How do you bleed the brake system on 2003 suzki grand yitara 4x4 with abs brakes


The hydraulic brake system must be bled any time one of the brake lines is disconnected or air enters the system. There are two ways to bleed the system; pressure bleeding or manual bleeding. Both procedures will be given here, although pressure bleeding requires the use of some fairly expensive equipment (a pressure tank) and is seldom used. Both methods are equally effective.The correct bleeding sequence is: left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. On master cylinders equipped with a bleeder valve, bleed the master cylinder last.
PRESSURE BLEEDING
  1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover, and attach the pressure bleeding adapter.
  2. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
  3. Check the pressure bleeder reservoir for correct pressure 20-29 psi (137-206 kPa) and fluid level, then open the release valve.
  4. Fasten a bleeder hose to the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and submerge the free end of the hose in a transparent receptacle. The receptacle should contain enough brake fluid to cover the open end of the hose.
  5. Open the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and allow the fluid to flow until all bubbles disappear and an uncontaminated flow exists.
  6. Close the nipple, remove the bleeder hose and repeat the procedure on the other wheel cylinders according to the sequence.


MANUAL BLEEDING(see Figures 1, 2 and 3)An alternative to the pressure method of bleeding requires two people to perform; one to depress the brake pedal and the other to open the bleeder nipples.
  1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, and then remove the cover and fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
  2. To prevent squirting fluid replace the cover.
  3. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
  4. Install a box end wrench on the left front bleeder screw.
  5. Attach a length of small diameter, clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw. Submerge the other end of the rubber tubing in a glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid. Make sure the rubber tube fits on the bleeder screw snugly or you may be squirted with brake fluid when the bleeder screw is opened.
  6. Have your friend slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder screw half a turn and allow the fluid to run through the tube. Close the bleeder screw, then return the brake pedal to its fully released position.
  7. Repeat this procedure until no bubbles appear in the jar. Refill the master cylinder.
  8. Frequently check the master cylinder level during this procedure. If the reservoir runs dry, air will enter the system and the bleeding will have to be repeated.

Hope helps.

Sep 29, 2011 | 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara

1 Answer

Me and a mate have been trying to bleed my clutch on my 80 series for 5 hrs and carnt get anywhere. What the hell am I doing wrong? I can do everythingt else other then 1 of the simplist job


Just follow the procedure in the right order. Fill the clutch reservoir on the master cylinder to the max and leave the lid loose. Fit a transparent plastic pipe on the bleed nipple on the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple. Put the other end of the pipe into a jar to catch the waste fluid. Put some thick grease around the base threads of the bleed nipple, this stops air being sucked in via the threads whne the nipple is slackened off. Loosen the bleed nipple by 1/3 of a turn. Have your mate slowly depress the clutch peddle. When he has reached maximum travel have him hold it there while you turn the bleed nipple a third turn back to tight. Have your mate release the clutch peddle, clutch fluid from the master reservoir should now fill the the master cylinder. Have you mate press the peddle a quarter way and then release the bleed nipple a 1/3 of a turn. Have your mate depress the clutch peddle all the way to maximum travel. Again tighten off the bleed nipple before releasing the clutch peddle. Keep doing this process until no more air bubbles can be seen in the fluid in the pipe attached to the bled nipple. Every four cycles or so check on the fluid level in the master reservoir and keep topped up with fresh fluid. When everything completed tighten the bleed nipple, it is not necessary to tighten the hell out of it as at some point you may need to do this again. Wipe everything down pump the clutch peddle a few times to be sure of correct operation and no leaks.

Jul 01, 2011 | 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser

1 Answer

Bleeding the clutch after slave removal on Golf 4 1.6


Mk4 Brake and clutch fluid change and bleeding

First time I've done this on the R and after hearing various scare stories of it taking a while or being a tricky job involving Vag-com etc I thought I'd share my experience today.

Firstly you will need:

7mm spanner - front bleed nipple
11mm spanner - rear bleed nipple
9mm spanner - clutch bleed nipple
length of clear hose - makes clutch bleed easier
Eazi-Bleed Pressure Bleeder - because pedal pumping is for women
2 ltr brake fluid - Halfords Hi Perf 5.1 for me, run it in race cars and it works
spare wheel - for the Eazi-Bleed
R32 compressor - it's in the boot...keep that spare wheel at the right pressure

Ok, this is an easy job to do and very satisfying when done right, improved braking and clutch pedal motion...it should take you no more than about 1.5 hours all in and you should use around 1.5ltr of fluid.

Start off by connecting up the Eazi-bleed as per the instructions, making sure your spare wheel (I used the space saver from my Jag) is at 14.5-15psi. Once you've attached it to the reservoir and are sure there is no hissing (leaks), disconnect the tyre and fill the eazi-bleed with your new fluid. Re-attach tyre to build pressure.


Starting at offside side front, remove wheel, locate bleed nipple, remove cap, attach length of hose (directed at pan/bowl/jug), use the 7mm spanner to loosen the nipple just enough so the fluid starts to flow through. Don't open it too much and always keep an eye on the eazi-bleed bottle not getting too low on fluid). Keep an eye on the fluid coming through the pipe and when bubbles (there shouldn't really be any) have stopped and the fluid seems clear and clean. Tighten up the nipple.



Repeat the process, with front nearside, rear offside, rear nearside...eachtime checking the eazi-bleed bottle (topping up when needed as per instructions) and the condition of the fluid. You should use around 1ltr on the brakes as you're flushing the rubbish dot 4 as well as bleeding them.

With that all done, locate the bleed nipple for the clutch. It's right between the battery and engine and fairly accessible. Again, remove the nipple, fit your pipe, then loosen around 1/4 turn to see the fluid come out fairly quickly..you may want to fill up the eazi-bleed before starting this as it'll take about 500ml to do.

Pump the clutch pedal by hand, it'll go straight to the floor...it's normal. Pump it around 15-20 times keeping an eye on the EB bottle, you should notice some pressure come back to the pedal although it still won't return itself without you pulling it up.

Tighten up the bleed nipple, making sure when you remove the pipe to not get any on your car or paintwork. Disconnect the tyre, replace the reservoir cap and go test your silky smooth clutch.



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Mar 11, 2011 | 2001 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Clutch adjustment possible?


there's really no adjustment, if the pedal feels soft or it doesn't disengage you can try bleeding the fluid with fresh. If it still doesn't help it will likely need service

to bleed you'll need:
small hose that fits fairly snug on the bleeding nipple, around 8-12 inches in length.
small wrench (I want to say 8mm, but I can't recall for sure off hand)
a jar for the old fluid to be purged into
some DOT 3 (or higher) brake fluid

Preparation: place the hose onto the bleed nipple (just follow the hose from the reservoir, which is attached to the air filter box, down to the transmission itself, it should be pretty much up front and fairly easy to access) [my own preference is to use a closed end wrench on the nipple first then the hose to help hold it in place]

Bleeding: use the wrench to loosen the nipple a bit (maybe quarter turn), then press the clutch pedal, if the nipple is loosened enough it will easily go to the floor and stay there, go back around and tighten the nipple, then go back and pull the clutch pedal back off the floor, repeat the process until it appears that the fluid is clear, might be 20 or so repetitions. Don't forget to keep adding fluid to the reservoir as needed.

Dec 08, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Do i have a hydraulic or cable clutch in my manual transmission? if it is hydraulic, how much should it cost to repair/replace?


it is a hydraulic clutch, you should bleed it with fresh fluid before taking it in, as it's fairly easy, if a bit tedious. It can be done on your own, but will take 10-15 minutes and a fair few trips between in the car and in under the hood.

to bleed you'll need:
small hose that fits fairly snug on the bleeding nipple, around 8-12 inches in length.
small wrench (I want to say 8mm, but I can't recall for sure off hand)
a jar for the old fluid to be purged into
some DOT 3 (or higher) brake fluid

Preparation: place the hose onto the bleed nipple (just follow the hose from the reservoir, which is attached to the air filter box, down to the transmission itself, it should be pretty much up front and fairly easy to access) [my own preference is to use a closed end wrench on the nipple first then the hose to help hold it in place]

Bleeding: use the wrench to loosen the nipple a bit (maybe quarter turn), then press the clutch pedal, if the nipple is loosened enough it will easily go to the floor and stay there, go back around and tighten the nipple, then go back and pull the clutch pedal back off the floor, repeat the process until it appears that the fluid is clear, might be 20 or so repetitions. Don't forget to keep adding fluid to the reservoir as needed.

Last time I did this it made the clutch feel quite a bit firmer

Nov 14, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Brake problem


hi this is air in the system if you pump them do they go hard as normal? what you will need to do is , starting from the furthest caliper away from the fluid bottle you have to bleed the air out, you can buy bleeding systems for a few bucks/pounds but you can also do it yourself, to do this, find a length of small bore clear hose/pipe, locate the bleed nipple on the caliper, find a wrench/spanner that will fit the bleed nipple, put that on first, then get your pipe/hose, and slide that over the end of the bleed nipple ( make sure the pipe/hose is a nice tight fit ) locate a small clear glass jar partly fill it with brake fluid, put the hose/pipe into the jar so the fluid covers the end ( we don't want air to go up the pipe/hose ) then get a friend to pump hard on the brake pedal till it goes hard, and when it does tell them to keep their foot hard on the pedal , you then undo the bleed nipple ( you should get some fluid come out fast) when the pedal reaches the floor ( this happens immediately if you have opened the nipple far enough, then when it has hit the floor do the bleed nipple up again before they raise the pedal keep doing this till you see no bubbles coming through the hose/pipe, repeat the operation on the next furthest away, and so on till all the air has been removed from the system, be sure to check the fluid in the reservoir regularly as this will cause air to get back into the system again if it runs to low....hope this has helped and good luck, please vote thanks

Mar 20, 2010 | 2002 Jaguar X-Type

1 Answer

Clutch pedal is squishy. I think I may have some air in the line and would like to know how to purge it.


Go under your vehicle after you have jacked it up and supported it on jack stands.
Locate the hydraulic slave cylinder, if it is an external slave cylinder then you can bleed it without too much difficulty.
If it is an external slave cylinder, locate the bleed nipple on the side of the slave cylinder,,attach a piece of rubber hose to the bleed nipple.
Then take a small clean jar or bottle and fill it to one quarter full of brake fluid. Dot3 usually.
Then put the free end of the hose into the bottle so that it is submerged under the fluid level.(it is important that you keep it submerged) then take an appropriate size wrench and loosen off the bleed nipple a quarter turn, or enough to get some flow.
Then make sure that the Fluid reservoir is kept topped up. while you slowly pump your clutch pedal,,then after doing this, leave the system alone for an hour or so(your choice) and let any remaining air bubbles escape from the line.
After you have done all this,,tighten up the bleed nipple, remove the rubber hose,,and save the contents of the jar for later use.(remember, brake fluid must be left to stand 24 hours after being removed from a closed system before re-use) once this is all done,,you should be good to go.

Jan 29, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

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