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Replacing Rear wheel bearing - Cars & Trucks

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Replacing a rear wheel bearing Hub on a 2001 celica 190?

I had this same problem myself. The hub is a sealed unit and must be purchased as a whole assembly to the tune of around $400 from Toyota. Long story short I never replaced my hub. The problem turned out to be tires that were worn out. I figured that out when i rotated the tires and the sound moved to the front of the car... Go figure. Replaced the tires and all the noise went away.

Posted on Aug 21, 2008

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  • 393 Answers

SOURCE: replacing rear wheel bearings on 1999 hyundai sonata

  1. for drum brakes with sealed hub(all one piece) remove lug nuts and wheel.
  2. spray penetrating oil around studs if there is a big phillips head screw visible remove it with impact driver/if not use big ballpeen hammer ,tap on flat of drum near studs(becareful not to hit them) until drum loosens(your creating a shockwave to loosen rust)
  3. once drum is off there are 4-bolts coming in from behind backing plate, remove them then hub should be able to be removed w/a little persuation from hammer.
with out sealed hub ,
  1. remove wheel
  2. remove dust cap,cotterpin,star washer(if equipped) do not re use cotter pin
  3. remove nut then washer, wiggle brake drum and front bearing will come out.
  4. put nut on shaft tighten 2-3 turns grab drum by sides and pull towards you this should remove drum leaving inner bearing/seal on shaft
  5. to replace reverse procedure making sure to pack new bearings w/grease(take drum and use long punch to remove bearing races, use race/seal installer to install new races
with disk brakes

  1. remove wheel
  2. remove caliper/bracket
  3. remove rotor
  4. remove 4-bolts from behind,tap old hub out
  5. reverse procedure



Posted on Nov 15, 2008

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: replacing front wheel bearing

  1. Loosen the wheel nuts and the center axle nut.
  2. Raise the vehicle and safely support it.
  3. Remove the wheel. Remove the ABS speed sensor if so equipped.
  4. Unclamp the brake hose from the shock absorber, but do not disconnect the line.
  5. Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way on a piece of stiff wire. Do not disconnect the brake line; do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose.
  6. Remove the brake disc.
  7. Place a dial indicator near the center of the axle hub, and check the backlash in the bearing shaft direction. Maximum is 0.0020 inch (0.05mm). If the backlash exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.
    1. Usiung a dial; indicator, check the deviation at the surface of the axle hub outside the hub bolt. Maximum is 0.0028 inch (0.07mm). If the deviation exceeds the maximum, replace the axle hub.
    2. Install the disc and caliper. Tighten to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
  8. Remove the cotter pin and install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  9. Remove the lock nut cap. While depressing the brake pedal, remove the center axle nut.
  10. Raise and support the vehicle again and remove the wheel, caliper and disc.
  11. Loosen the 2 nuts on the lower side of the shock absorber. Do not remove the 2 nuts and bolts.
  12. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end.
  13. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle using a joint separator or equivalent.
  14. Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding the bottom of the ball joint to the control arm and separate the arm from the knuckle.
  15. Remove the 2 nuts from the steering knuckle. Place a protective cover or shield over the CV boot on the driveshaft.
  16. Using a plastic mallet, tap the driveshaft free of the hub assembly.
  17. Remove the bolts and remove the axle hub assembly.
    1. Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
    2. Remove the dust deflector. Loosen the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator tool or equivalent to loosen and remove the joint
    3. Use a slide hammer/extractor to remove the outer oil seal.
    4. Remove the snapring.
    5. Using a hub puller and pilot tools or equivalents, pull the axle hub from the knuckle.
    6. Remove the brake splash shield (3 bolts).
    7. Use a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inner bearing race from the hub.
    8. Remove the inner oil seal with the same tools used to remove the outer seal.

    To install:
    1. Place the inner race in the bearing. Support the knuckle and use an axle hub remover with a plastic mallet to drive out the bearing.
    2. Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing; it cannot be repacked. If the bearing is damaged or noisy, it must be replaced.
    3. Press a new bearing race into the steering knuckle using a bearing driver of the correct size.
    4. Place a new bearing inner race on the hub bearing.
    5. Insert the side lip of a new oil seal into the seal installer and drive the oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    6. Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip.
    7. Apply sealer to the brake splash shield and install the shield.
    8. Use a hub installer to press the hub into the steering knuckle.
    9. Install a new snapring into the hub.
    10. Using a seal installer of the correct size, install a new outer oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    11. Apply multi-purpose grease to the seal surfaces which will contact the driveshaft.
    12. Support the knuckle and drive in a new dust deflector.
    13. Install the ball joint into the knuckle and tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs. (142). Install NEW cotter pin.
    14. Temporarily install the hub assembly to the lower control arm and fit the driveaxle into the hub.
    15. Install the knuckle to strut bolts, then attach the tie rod end to the knuckle.
    16. Tighten the strut bracket nuts to 203 ft. lbs. (275 Nm) and tighten the tie rod end nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install the NEW cotter pin.
    17. Connect the ball joint to the lower control arm and tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
    18. Install the brake disc.
    19. Attach the brake caliper to the knuckle and tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
    20. Install the center nut and washer on the drive axle.
    21. Install the ABS speed sensor if so equipped. Install the wheel
    22. Lower the car to the ground.
    23. Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Tighten the hub nut while depressing the brake pedal to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm) on 1988-91 models and 152 ft. lbs. (206 Nm) on 1992-97 models. Install the cap and cotter pin.
    24. Remove the protective cover from the CV boot. Check front wheel alignment

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

  • 119 Answers

SOURCE: Procedure for replacing rear wheel bearings 2000 Forester

i'm assuming you don't have a hubshark,this is a tool that will alllow you to remove the bearing while the knuckle is attached to the car,you may be able to rent this tool at a auto prts store .if not you need to remove the entie knuckle,first remove the trailing arm bolt,then the lateral link bolt{long and stubborn bolt},disassemble the brake shoes and parking brake cable,abs sensor if equipped the knuckle to strut bolt{no marking necessary they are not eccentric} then you need a to use or borrow a press to remove hub and bearings good luck

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: ford fiesta 1999 rear wheel bearings

yes it is one big nut, however it looks like 4 individual nuts due to the fact that they are a thinly stacked layer or thin nuts held together by what you called the tab washer............only way to replace is to get a new one from ford........

Posted on Sep 19, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank-you for that, I have ordered a new one from the ford dealers. I just wonder why the 4 nuts were fitted in the first place? thank you"

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