Question about Chevrolet Suburban 1500

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2002 Suburban rear ac blower not working - Suburban 1500 Chevrolet Cars & Trucks

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  • cameron012 Jul 24, 2009

    Maybe I should of said the fan inside the vehicle. I have 12V going into the motor controller, but nothing at the fan itself.

  • cameron012 Jul 24, 2009

    My 2002 Suburban rear ac is not working. The fan in the back is not turning. It doesn't have power but the fuses all appear to be good. I have 12V (orange), 4V (purple)going into the motor controller, but the purple and black are both grounded coming out of the controller. It sounds like the controller, but it isn't b/c I bought a new one and it isn't working. I also bought a new fan and that isn't the problem. What could be causing this lack of power? I can only blame it on a battery issue. I had a power surge of some kind and that is when the AC fan quit working.

  • cameron012 Jul 24, 2009

    I have read a ton of threads on replacing the resistor, but they are all related to the fan speeds dropping off but still working. Mine isn't working at all and shouldn't it have 12V at the fan itself?

  • cameron012 Jul 24, 2009

    Please see previous posts. The first guy was off and the second guy was recommending a resistor replacement. Can you offer another solution, b/c I think the resistor replacement is only for certain speeds going out and not the entire fan. Thanks, Chris

  • cameron012 Jul 24, 2009

    I am reluctant to cut it b/c I have tried both combintaions of a new controller (Delco # 16250785) and a new fan (Delco # 700068) and they all act the same. Can you think of another suggestion?

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  • Master
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You say the 'purple and black are both grounded coming out of the controller'. I think that's the key here. The black is supposed to be grounded, not the purple. Here's what I would do; Unhook (or cut) the purple wire coming out of the controller. Then check for voltage on the terminal where it comes off the controller. It's going to be 12 volts+ . It's at zero volts because it's grounded somewhere. Try it with it unhooked from the controller and see if the output at the controller goes high (12+)

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

  • Craig Butler
    Craig Butler Jul 24, 2009

    Yes, I heart you, but...you've done all this other stuff to no avail. Can't you pull the wire off? Why are you affraid to cut it? It can easily be put back with barrel connector and a crimper. I dothis all the time. You need to lift that wire to remove it from the controller. It s the only way to prove what I'm telling you. I believe it's the problem, it's pulling the controller voltage down to zero

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Aquire a CD repair manual on ebay motors this is inexpensive and has a electrical component locator on the software, check the fuse for blower motor replace the fuse even if it is not blown, replace the fan resistor ( $40.00 - $50.00 ) then find the plug for the blower motor and hook up a volt meter to it to see if it is recieving power as the controls are activated, set the volt meter on DC 10 amp to check also ground the black probe wire to a suitable ground disconnect plug and stick the red probe wire into the connector pins to check for 12 - 14 volts it should be present when activating switch after replacing fan resistor.

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

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Check the pulley which is in front the belt connected to the alternator if it's turning.Sometimes they run out of gas and as a security feature goes into safe mode and does not start.This car is 7 years old and it normally looses 10% of gas every year,so it might need to be refill.

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

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