Question about Plymouth Caravelle

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Good afternoon. I have a 2.6i Caravelle that has no spark as I replaced the petrol pump, the complete distributor, spark plug leads, coil and had the ECU tested and it works fine.

The pump feeds fuel but it has no spark.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ajkill
  • 2035 Answers

SOURCE: IGNITION FAILURE ON 280 ZX (82)

  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the fusible link connector for the fuel injection wiring harness. Be sure the ignition is OFF before doing this. Disconnect the cold start valve wiring harness connector. Disconnect the high tension lead (coil-to-distributor) at the distributor and hold it 0.13-0.25 in. (3.3-6.3mm) away from the cylinder head with a pair of insulated pliers and a heavy glove. When the engine is cranked, a spark should be observed. If not, check the lead and replace as necessary. If there is still no spark, go on with the following system checks.
    1. Make a check of the power supply circuit. Turn the ignition OFF. Detach the connector from the top of the IC unit. Turn the ignition ON. Measure the voltage at each terminal of the connector in turn by touching the probe of positive lead of the voltmeter to one of the terminals and touching the probe of the negative lead of the voltmeter to a ground, such as the engine. In each case, battery voltage should be indicated. If not, check all of the wiring, the ignition switch and all connectors for breaks, corrosion, discontinuity etc., then repair as necessary
    2. Check the primary windings of the ignition coil. Turn the ignition OFF. Detach the harness connector from the negative coil terminal. Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the positive and negative coil terminals. If resistance is 0.84-1.02 ohms, the coil is OK; replace it if the reading is far from this range.
  2. If the power supply, circuits, wiring and coil are in good shape, check the IC unit and pick-up coil as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition OFF.
    2. Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
    3. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the two terminals of the pick-up coil, where they attach to the IC unit. Measure the resistance by reversing the polarity of the probes. If approximately 400 ohms are indicated, the pick-up coil is OK, but the IC unit is bad and must be replaced.
0900c152800716f1.jpgFig. 10: Connect the ohmmeter to the pick-up coil terminals-1979-83 models 0900c152800716f3.jpgFig. 11: Remove the screws (arrows) to detach the IC unit-1979-83 models
  1. If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, proceed with the following:
    1. Be certain the two pin connector to the IC unit is secure.
    2. Turn the ignition ON.
    3. Measure the voltage at the ignition coil's negative terminal.
    4. Turn the ignition OFF.
WARNINGRemove the tester probe from the coil negative terminal before switching the ignition OFF, to prevent burning out the tester.
    1. If 0 voltage is indicated, the IC unit is bad and must be replaced.
  1. If battery voltage is indicated, remove the IC unit from the distributor, by proceeding as follows:
    1. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable.
    2. Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
    3. Disconnect the harness connector from the top of the IC unit.
    4. Remove the two screws securing the IC unit to the distributor.
    5. Disconnect the two pick-up coil wires from the IC unit.
WARNINGPull the connectors free with a pair of needlenose pliers. DO NOT pull on the wires to detach the connectors.
    1. Remove the IC unit.
  1. Measure the resistance between the terminals of the pick-up coil. It should be approximately 400 ohms. If so, the pick-up coil is OK and the IC unit is bad. If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, the pick-up coil is bad and must be replaced.

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

Landyman
  • 89 Answers

SOURCE: rover 214

Check the ignition module next to the coil , this is normally the culprit

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

  • 14036 Answers

SOURCE: 95 Honda Accord Won't Start

YOUR CAR HAS TRANSISTORIZED ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM.BECAREFUL IT HAS HIGHER VOLTAGE THAN CONVENTIONAL SYSTEMS.PROBLEM IS IN IGNITION SYSTEM FIRST CHECK DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR. MAKE SURE THEY ARE NOT WORN OUT. IF ALL IS GOOD CHECK THE IGNITION FUSE AND.CHECK TO SEE IGNITION COIL AND IGNITION MODULE GETTING BATTERY POWER.IF BOTH GETTING POWER.REMOVE IGNITION COIL.CHECK ITS RESISTANCE WITH A VOLT OHM METER.TO MAKE SURE ITS NOT OPEN.IF COIL IS GOOD PROBLEM IS THE ICM OR IGNITION CONTROL MODULE.ANOTHER THING CHANGE PLUGS + WIRES IF IT BEEN A WHILE.

Posted on Aug 22, 2009

dttech
  • 4803 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 93 mercury topaz 4cyl 2.3L that stalls

It sounds to me like you replaced everything but the most likely cause of a stall while driving...The crank sensor.

Posted on Oct 11, 2009

  • 275 Answers

SOURCE: distributor cap and spark plug leads order/layout?

The firing order is 1342. The cylinders are numbered from left to right 1234. Depending on wether it is a 16 valve engine, the distributor cap lead number one position is at the front on the left, if its a normal 8 valve engine , the distributor cap lead number one is at the front pointing straight at the front. So, moving anti clockwise, the next lead will be number 3, then 4 , then 2.

Posted on Dec 07, 2009

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1 Answer

My pajero 1999 engine crank but wont start. There is only spark on 2 out of the other 4. Replace coil but still no spark.


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2001 f150 the stater coil was bad I know this because I had to play with it and then it'd start I put a new one in but it still won't start any suggestions?


check the wires are correctly connected. replace the coil to distributor wire/lead. guessing the vehicle is gas/petrol.
check the distributor cap and rotor for wear/pitting, if you find excessive wear replace them, maybe the plug wires/leads also. There is not much more than this that I can suggest if you are sure that the coil was the problem in the first instance.
To check, remove a spark plug, insert the top end, in the wire/lead so that the conductor is making with the contact in the wire / lead , place the plug and lead very near, but not touching, a metal surface, then crank the engine over, or get a friend/family member to help, and observe whether a spark occurs at the plug electrode. If all is right in the ignition system you should see a healthy spark as the current earths.
If this does not happen please resubmit the query.

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Wiring from coil to distributor for opel monza 1989


Sadly this is a USA site... and Opel data seems to be pretty scarce on your car...

Simply (generally)... You are looking to see steady battery on your coil.. as the distributer turns it SHOULD BE interrupting ground...

and generating a PRETTY POWERFUL spark...

Use a volt meter and measure for battery = good.

... no battery... back up to the BALAST RESISTOR (if equipped)... measure for battery...
Only now do you need to know the circuit back to your starter switch ("B" and "S" leads).

ELSE...
If you have a clever (preferably smaller/tool (we'll call SPARKY)) assistant... you can convince to hold the spark lead REALLY REALLY close to the spark plug... If SPARKY sees (or feels) a spark move on to the FUEL... FILTER & PUMP.

Sparky would be smarter to pull out the center wire of the distributor cap... that way less likely your assistant will get ENERGIZED...

No spark = possibly bad distributor or coil

Now disconnect the ground side and manually apply rapid ground... test for spark = good coil

Still no spark = bad coil,

There is a tool for that (I'll post it below)...

Now no spark = clean/replace points (& capacitor) or
replace inductor!!

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The car stals when i switch the car of and on again it sarts than dies. i replaced the fuel pump and it still does the same


Hello, replace the fuel filter. A blocked fuel filter will take a long time for the petrol to fill the carbies. Also check out the distributor and spark plug leads as these can short out. Also this: ON CERTAIN VEHICLES, A COIL WIRE INSIDE THE FUEL PUMP RELAY MAY BREAK, CAUSING THE FUEL PUMP TO LOSE POWER. IF THE FUEL PUMP BECOMES INOPERATIVE, THE ENGINE MAY NOT START. There was a recall on 05 model odessys because of this fault.

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Cant locate the spark plugs on vw golf 88 mk1..any ideas?


I'm assuming you have a petrol fuelled car, as diesels do not have spark plugs.

Find the distributor cap leading off the distributor - it should look a little like this: http://www.google.com/images?um=1&hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&biw=1920&bih=895&tbs=isch:1&aq=f&aqi=g8g-m1&oq=&q=distributor%20cap

there should be 5 leads trailing from the cap - the lead in the centre leads to the "coil", the other 4 leads go to the spark plugs. There should only be 4 as the Mk1 was only made as a 4 cylinder engine.

Pull off the leads (though not whilst the engine is running as you'll electrocute yourself) and the spark plugs will be revealed.

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I have a Hyundai Lantra '92 with a 1.5 4cyl manual engine.was going fine but now the car will turn over but wont start.I have done the following procedures and eliminated the following. FUEL-Car has...


fancy getting brother to hold HT lead ,i havent stopped laughing yet and i have tears in my eyes ,try changing thte ignition module ,i think its inside the distributor on this ancient vehicle the white box is a radio capacitor i think .thats like me when i taught mechanics i sent this lad out to my transit DIESEL with a spark plug spanner to change the plugs ???

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1 Answer

My 1990 sierra has a miss in it when i accelarate. I replaced plugs and wires but not the fuel filter or fuel pump.I also smell fuel outside between the bed and cab on the drivers side


Check out the distributor cap and rotor arm, - and make sure the plugs ar gapped properly - should be 1mm on 1.6 1.8, and 0.75mm on the 2 liter.
Check the oil level urgently, if it has been misfiring for some time you will have acuumulated all that unburnt petrol in the oil sump!!! (you can test this by getting a bit of oil from the dipstick and putting a drop on your fingers, rub together and sniff the oil, if it stinks of petrol change it -you need to change the oil filter too since it wil be full of petrol tainted oil also.
Once you are sure you have good oil and either it was ok after testing it from the distick "golden, clean oil" or you replaced the contaminated oil and filter you can move on to sorting out this misfire.
- You didn't mention if you checked or replaced the HT coil - Check for strong sparking from the main HT lead from the coil itslelf, Pull the lead from the centre of the distibutor cap - have someone crank the engine while there is a "spare" sparkplug in the main ht lead (ground the plug to the engine, holding the rubber insulation of the cable with pliers - Use a normal HT lead if the main coil lead wont reach a suitable grounding point with the sparkplug) - check for solid bright blue spark, it should be regular timed, and strong EVERY time - any missing or weak sparks indicate electrical problem either - the coil is failing - or the battery is weak - or the distributor is faulty. - a faulty distributor would be expensive to replace and more so to repair, a reconditioned distributor costs around £120.
for now I assume the coil checked out fine and gave a strong steady uniform set of sparks. ----------------------- With a fully functioning coil, you're left with the distributor cap and rotor arm - the distributor cap comes off with 2 screws at the left and right sides of the cap between the HT Connectors - unscrew them - (note the original orientation of the distributor cap before you pull it off to aid refitting) you can now pull away the cap from the rest of the distributor.
INSIDE the CAP there are four "poles" round the outside, and a spring mounted contact in the center - make sure the poles are clean and shiny with only light markings at most, if they are blackened, whitened ro rounded and pitted then replace the cap - ford dealers or local part shop, most shops will stock both the rotor arm and distributor cap for around £15-30 - phone around for the best deal.
Still on the distributor is the rotor arm, this pulls off - it has to be pulled dead straight off the distributor shaft - once you have the rotor arm off you can inspect the metal contact on the top for general dirtiness and decay, it "should" be shiny brass/copper in colour. if it looks pretty bad, pitted or blackened/burned- - get a new rotor arm from ford dealers or from local part shop (not expensive)
Once you are sure of a clean or new rotor arm and distributor cap you can try the engine again - hopefully the misfire is gone.
If it is still there....
we are here

DISTRIBUTOR CAP - FINE ROTOR ARM - FINE OIL + FILTER NOT OVER LEVEL + CLEAN, NO PETROL IN IT HT COIL - GOOD STRONG REGULAR SPARK. -----

If it still misfires with all these things in perfect order then you are left with: Clogged Fuel Line/Filter or Failing Fuel Pump or Ignition TIMING - ( 10-12 degrees BTDC) have igition timing checked and set if not correct. OR... Faulty Distributor - pretty much worst case scenario. Tell me how you get on - Often it is the distributor cap and rotor arm - If not I hope its the fuel filter!
Good luck,

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