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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The rear timing chain (or "cassette" as it's called in Ford lingo) is the chain that drives bank #1 (passenger side) cam. The front timing chain drives bank #2 (driver side) cam. There is a also a primary "jackshaft" chain that is driven by the crankshaft in order to enable both banks to be driven through a common shaft. The reason for this peculiar layout is because this engine is a "derivative" of the 4.0L OHV V6 engine it replaces. Ford simply installed a dummy shaft in place of where the camshaft used to reside on the original OHV engines. But above all else, the job you describe SHOULD NOT be carried out by anyone unfamiliar with this particular engine. There are NO timing marks on any of the drive sprockets, nor are they key to their corresponding shafts. To time this particular engine requires use of FIVE dedicated Ford/Rotunda tools that hold all relevant parts in proper position. Failing to carry this procedure out correctly, will result in the bending of ALL valves with 100% certainty!!! Therefore, it is best left to a Ford dealer technician to carry out. If you would like more information regarding diagrams, TSBs, and procedures with detailed illustrations, please e-mail me directly with your FULL Yahoo e-mail address so I can attach PDF files. Hope this helps.
Posted on May 18, 2008
What engine is this? if it is the 4.0L then talk to the dealer there is a recall on the camshaft drive chain hydraulic tensors, these will cause a rattle noise.
Posted on Nov 07, 2008
There are no marks on this one. There is a special tool set to align camshafts ($900). The best you can do is to bring #1 cyl to TDC compression with both cam(valve) covers off. #5 cyl should have lobes at equal opening, exhaust just closing and intake just opening.. #1 cyl cam lobes should each be diametrically opposed to the positions of #5. If cams need to be moved, there is no registration of gear onto cam. Just loosen bolt holding gear and move cam. Retighten bolt. Roll thru 2 crank revolutions and check cam timing again.Simple.
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
There are 2 different 4.0L type engines on Ford Explorers if it is the VIN letter E (8th number reading left to right) then yes it has a timing chain on the back and there are 3 timing chains on the front. You will need special tools to hold the timing in place whille you change the chains. You can buy them from several different tool manufacturers. I bought mine from Snap-on but it was several hundred dollars and came with many different adapters for several different engines. But be prepared to spend a little money they aren't cheap even the small sets. Depending upon how much you'll use them you may want to see how much it would cost to have it done or try to find someone to loan you some. If you do then it's just a matter of following the procedure in the maintenance manual. As far as how hard is it? It isn't rocket science but I would make sure you read over the procedure in a repair manual, see if you can get the special tools you will need and depending upon your mechanical aptitude determine if it's something you want to tackle yourself. Good luck.
Posted on Nov 05, 2009
being that you most likely have a 4.0l s.o.h.c. engine you have a timing chain which only needs inspection around 100,000 miles for excessive wear on chain guides and leaking cam seals. this setup tends to last far beyond that mileage without any maintenence. if this was helpful please leave positive rating.
Posted on Nov 29, 2010
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Jul 14, 2017 | Ford Cars & Trucks
Oct 14, 2011 | 2001 Ford Taurus
Jul 21, 2011 | 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)
4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)
2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)
2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)
1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)
1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)
1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.
new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change
of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing
chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for
The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com
My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:
$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab
$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and
should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon
you could do it in half the time the second time).
It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.
is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in
the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is
possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the
engine in the car.
will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main
reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid
car - except for the plastic guides!
Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford
mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft
sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.
Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.
Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.
At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.
engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams
180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other
settings may cause major damage to the valves.
2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that
anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.
The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.
the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in
the same position either up and level or down and level.
is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each
other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate
for crank timing but not engineering failure.
warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a
few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its
still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.
heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you
need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam
sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.
is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into
the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about
90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)
the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will
save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US
$119 - then sell them again for say $100.
is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws
right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to
enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the
right spot on the cam.
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