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I have a PSI 2.5td (DJ5TED) using the Bosche VE pump setup. I want to time the pump using a dial guage but can't find the movement (stroke) at Tdc info anywhere. Can anyone help please ?

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Hope this helps!!!

Posted on Mar 17, 2011

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SOURCE: i've got an 89 ford

install a pressure gauge on the number one cylinder and when you see the needle move, you're on the compression stroke, you can also use your finger to plug the spark plug hole and turn the engine, then again when you feel or hear air coming out, you're on the compression stroke, then just insert a long screwdriver in the hole and turn the engine until you see the screwdriver reach the highest point before it starts falling down again, and there you go, you have top dead center.

Posted on Jun 26, 2011

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SOURCE: Fitting n13 timing belt

In Australia the 1990 Nissan N13 engine has a timing BELT not a chain, this could be that the compliance plate reflects the date the vehicle leaves the assembly plant & not the day it was built

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SOURCE: checking timing on bosch ve type injection pump

put some fuel in it then turn the pu,p ovedr till you see fuel spit from no1 ,also if this is a rotary pump you remove the little cover on the side of the pump and look at the letters ,i cannot for the life of me remember what they are and all my notes from the ford training centre in daventry got eaten by mivce when i moved to spain ,you could ask in your local bosch agent /repair centre they would know

Posted on Dec 28, 2013

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1990 corrolla broken timing belt. Is there a way to know TDC on compression stroke without removing the valve cover? Thanks.

sure compressiong gauge
if #1 is the setup, you didnt say,
firing order is 1 3,4,2.
so the crank fires every 180 degrees.
so 1 and 4 are both at TDC same time, look with head off. see that.
so if you use hose sized to fint spark hole.
blow air with lips (lungs) in to both holes, the one that stops you
is #1 firing, the #4 blows easy is #4 on the exhaust stroke.
if #4 wont blow turn the crank 360 degrees CW clock wise
and #1 is now firing. and #1 wont blow.
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if you know where the timing marks are supposed to be the use the old method of cam/crank timing to check and adjust to where the marks will be. Remove no 1 injector and turn the engine over until no 1 piston is coming up on injection stop when you reach TDC. mark on flywheel of harmonic balancer. If there is valve clearance ot both rockers turn the engine another 180 degrees and bring the piston to TDC again. watch the rockers and if you turn back a few degrees or turn forward a few degrees you will see ( in the forward direction) the exhaust valve closing and at the same time the inlet valve will be opening. This is known as valve rock. As you move the piston bacvk and forward over TDC you will see the valve movement. set on TDC and check the timing marks with the positions indicated. Remove and reposition the cam shaft gear to achieve the correct mark alignment or pull the cam shaft out just enough to realign the teeth to the mark. At the most you will be about 1 tooth out. The pump timing will be out 180 degrees as you are setting the valve timing on the induction stroke and you will need to turn the engine 180 degrees to compression stroke for the pump timing marks to line up. the injection mark on the flywheel is what you are looking for and when it is at the correct number of degrees as indicated by injection / lightning flash sign then the marks for the pump should be just about lined up

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Is it a diesel, if so it's very complicated, you will need a special tool to place up the end plug to time it correctly, you will also need a dial guage as well, but first you will need to know how many mm BTDC or AFTDC to time it correctly, then there is a process to do it. If you can't it would be best to take it to your local diesel fitter injection specialist to do it for you, hope this helps

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After top dead center what valve starts opening number 1 intake or number 1 exhaust?

It depends on which TDC you are talking about, compression TDC or exhaust TDC. On the compression stroke, no valves will open after TDC-this is when combustion has occured, the power stroke. When the piston reaches bottom and starts up on the exhaust stroke, then exhaust valve will open. At TDC of exhaust stroke, exhaust valve will be closed, and the intake valve will then open as piston is moving down.
If you have the intake valve opening right after TDC, you are on the exhaust stroke of that cylinder. The exhaust valve is only open during upward movement of the piston on the exhaust stroke. Immediately after TDC of exhaust stroke, the intake will open as the piston travels downward.

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Right, so you have two TDC's-the exhaust stroke and the compression stroke Top Dead Center-and both occurr when the crank hits the zero mark on the timing scale.
Always set timing with the number one cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke. How do you know which is which? If you have a distributor, the rotor will be pointing to number one cylinder tower, when at TDC of the compression stroke. If you are on the exhaust stroke's TDC, the rotor will be pointing just opposite of number one .
If you don't have a distributor, look at the valves for cylinder one under the valve cover. If at TDC of compression stroke, both valves will be closed. At TDC of exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve will be open.
You can also find the compression stroke on number one by pulling out the spark plug for number one, and either put a wrench or socket on the crank pulley and turn it clockwise, or use the starter and bump the engine over in short bumps. Put your finger or thumb over the spark plug hole and feel for the pressure to build up. As soon as you feel pressure on your finger, (if turning by hand, pressure will be slight, but you can feel it) you are on the compression stroke. Stop bumping the starter and turn the crank on around by hand until the zero mark lines up on the timing scale-TDC of compression stroke! The exhaust stroke will have no pressure build-up as the piston comes to top-because the exhaust valve is open. On the compression stroke, both valves are closed as the piston travels up the cylinder.

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I need some clarification. Did you replace the belt because it broke? If so you may need to replace the head. The problem is if the belt breaks when your moving it usually damages the head and thus needs to be replaced.

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Well, since it won't run, you cant check timing with a light. You could try static timing: Bring #1 piston to TDC by mark on scale by crank pulley. Take upper timing chain cover off. Cam pulley should have a mark or circle or dot that lines up with mark on bloick. (Need to make sure you are on compression stroke, not exhaust stroke of piston. How? Best way is pull spark plug and hold finger or thumb over plug hole. As you turn crank (clockwise) with a socket approaching the TDC mark, you will feel pressure build on your finger if you are on compression stroke. Could also have someone bump starter a little at a time, you can feel pressure build on your finger as piston approaches TDC. When it's close, use socket to line up crank pulley with mark.) Now check cam pulley for those timing marks. Valve timing off is often cause of backfires. So is too much gas, but first I would make sure timing is right.

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Assuming that you have a VE Bosch pump more or less mechanical pump, but controlled by a magnetic actuator.. Firstly you need ot buy a cheap small dial guage and make an adaptor with a m8 fine thread to screw into the middle hole in the pump injector block and support your dial guage. I picked up a m8x20mm fine thread bolt and drilled a tight hole in it into which the dial guage stem tightly fits. This screw to remove is a blanking plug and has a copper washer to seal it. The adaptor is to hold the dial guage firmly while you take measurements. You probably will then need to make an extension finger to the dial guage movement. I used a piece of brass wire with a washer soldered onto its end. This is to measure the amount that the plunger lifts off being closed. Test before you install the pump into the engine body that it shows the opening and closing on a rotation of the pump shaft. That means you have to have a plunger that touches the lifter inside. Align up the markers on the pump gear, the vacuum pump and the intermediate gear. Shoehorn in the pump. Lightly tighten the three clamping screws/nuts. Wind the engine(pump) around and get a feel for the guage moving up and down. Set the engine on TDC. and rotate the pump body until it shows a lift of 0.38mm +-0.02mm (apparently this pump has a very small lift compared with many pumps). It is just starting to open. Wind the engine back and then move it forward again to negate backlash in the gears and check that it is still correct and your guage has not slipped. Tighten the bolts and remove the guage, fit the pipes etc etc. Note that the pump lift plunger has a hole in it, so you have to make your extension finger to the dial guage sit over the hole.

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