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My turbo flush T12 switches on sometimes and sometime it doesnt

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Volvo D5 power loss

I would change the coolant temp sensor if it's not too expensive at the auto parst store, or unplug it and drive around to see if the boost works normally. Be sure to clear the codes that may light up on your dashboard after either solution.

Feb 21, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

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I changed the thermostat because i had no heat and since i changed it it still has no heat

Have you done a radiator flush? sometimes residue builds up within the engine and causes blockages. could also relate to there being a blocked hose within the heating unit. Try the flush and if that doesnt work then blast the vent fan and put it on cold; let it run for a few and then switch it to hot and listen. it should make a different sound indicating that the door inside the system has switched from hot to cold. if you dont hear that, it could be that your mixer is no good.

Oct 19, 2010 | Chrysler Concorde Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Whisch trans cooing line is the supply to the

It doesnt really matter, pull them both off to flush the cooler. Flush in both directions. Be careful, sometimes flushing the trans will start trans problems.

Nov 10, 2009 | 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

1988 deisel starts sometimes not other

sounds like your neutral safety switch is going bad, have the switch replaced, and have the shifter assembly checked out. if the neutral safety switch isn't working the vehicle thinks its in gear and won't allow the engine to turn, try starting it in neutral and see if it starts

Jul 31, 2009 | 1991 Nissan Pathfinder

1 Answer

I own a 2000 audi a4 1.9tdi 115 se salon which has done 125000 miles. during driving the turbo seem to loss its thrust during some of the revs. its very strong when the boost comes in but falls of after a...

I guess your car goes in "limp mode". If you scan the EDC-15P engine computer with a VAG or KTS -BOSCH diagnosis tool you will find this: "Fault code: P1557 - Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded"
You must try follows if you are able to do this:
1. Engine stooped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to the step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to the step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism of the turbine.
4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside and refit all.
Success !

Jul 19, 2008 | Audi A4 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Powerloss sometimes

im dave
not sure what you mean by powerloss. Do you mean electrical power or torque power?

Jul 15, 2008 | 1988 Mazda 323 Hatchback

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