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How to fix an oil leak in the pressure line?

Our Broaster is leaking oil internally, meaning inside the panels where only a service technician would work on. It seems to leak while the pressure is being let out because if we fry with no pressure then there is no oil leak. The leaking oil occasionally catches fire from the pilot and ends up falling into the filtering pan. Small fires that are easy to put out with baking soda. Any technician that comes out to look at the machine always start by saying "I've never seen a fryer like this before". We've had a lot of work done on it but the leak is still there. I've had a Broaster machine for 10 years now. The first one in 2007 didn't have nearly as many problems as this one that is only 2 years old. Help Please!

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 923 Answers

You need to contact the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission ... and you may get your money back! It is UNLAWFUL to provide dangerous and/or deadly products to the public, at any cost! The product may already have a "RECALL" issued to all the known buyers and/or owners!

Posted on Apr 18, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have milky oil and my oil pressure gauge reads about 50


Milky oil indicates coolant is getting into the oil . These engines are know for intake manifold gasket problems .

Mar 20, 2016 | 2001 Pontiac Bonneville

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Do oil sending units have history of leaking?


An Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch is just that, a 'pressure sensor', and yes they do have a leak history. It may sometimes leak from the threaded area that it is installed by, and in most cases can easily be fixed by tightening it a little (use caution to not strip the threads in the block or breaking it off, if that happens then you have even more problems). Otherwise a leak may be from the switch mechanism itself, if so then it is best change it right away and it is actually very easy to do so. Remember it is a a 'pressure sensor', so if it is leaking that means it can easily become a stronger leak, to include a total leak, meaning pumping oil out of the engine at the range of 40-60 PSI.

Feb 11, 2016 | 2007 GMC Yukon

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Compressor does not engage when ac is turned on.


If the system is low or has no Freon, the clutch will not engage. Hook up a pressure tester on the low pressure line valve. It should read 30 psi at 65 degrees outside temperature and 50 psi at 85 degrees outside temperature. If there is pressure, then it could be a fuse or AC relay. If there is no pressure, then add freon with some pag oil, plus a leak dye will have to be added to the system from the low pressure valve. Only add 1 16 Oz. can to not over pressurize the system. If the clutch engages, then check for a leak. I would recommend taking this job to a qualified technician, since he would have the necessary equipment to put the system at a vacuum of -30- To empty the system and check for a leak.

Apr 16, 2014 | 2003 Nissan Altima

1 Answer

Leacking coolant fluid slowly


There are several ways to check this problem. The most reliable is a Radiator pressure tester which you might be able to borrow with a deposit from Autozone or Oreillys or Advance. The old-time Service stations used to use them. For sure Radiator repair shops still use them. The idea is to put air pressure in the water system and force the water out of the leak. Sometimes chemical tracers are added to expose tiny leaks.

What does not leak externally would have to be leaking internally.

Looking at your Radiator fluid you should not have oil in the Antifreeze. Then look at your oil dipstick. The oil should not have a white or yellow frothy appearance indicating water content or Antifreeze content. It is possible to leak water into the oil crankcase and the water will partially evaporate leaving the frothy residue.

Once you determine the source of the leak you can make decisions. Internal leaks are the most expensive to fix. These would be internal things like head gaskets. Evidence of head gasket problems are oil in the Antifreeze and Antifreeze in the crankcase or frothing. It is worth it to try a modern leak-stop. This is one area where modern chemicals are better than products of the 1950's.

But do not use leak-stop for hoses and water pump problems. Hoses are cheap to replace and water pump seals and gaskets are subject to erosion from the flowing water.

If you can not find anything through this testing, put a page of newspaper under the interior carpet by the Heater core. A slow leak can drip on the carpet and gradually soak in before you discover it.

I hope my solutions help you fix your problem.




Jan 11, 2011 | 2001 Mercury Mountaineer

4 Answers

Loosing coolant no visible leaks about 1/2 gallon every 100 miles


How To Find & Fix Coolant Leaks

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WHERE COOLANT LEAKS OCCUR
Coolant leaks can occur anywhere in the cooling system. Nine out of ten times, coolant leaks are easy to find because the coolant can be seen dripping, spraying, seeping or bubbling from the leaky component. Open the hood and visually inspect the engine and cooling system for any sign of liquid leaking from the engine, radiator or hoses. The color of the coolant may be green, orange or yellow depending on the type of antifreeze in the system. The most common places where coolant may be leaking are:
Water pump -- A bad shaft seal will allow coolant to dribble out of the vent hole just under the water pump pulley shaft. If the water pump is a two-piece unit with a backing plate, the gasket between the housing and back cover may be leaking. The gasket or o-ring that seals the pump to the engine front cover on cover-mounted water pumps can also leak coolant. Look for stains, discoloration or liquid coolant on the outside of the water pump or engine.

Radiator -- Radiators can develop leaks around upper or loser hose connections as a result of vibration. The seams where the core is mated to the end tanks is another place where leaks frequently develop, especially on aluminum radiators with plastic end tanks. On copper/brass radiators, leaks typically occur where the cooling tubes in the core are connected or soldered to the core headers. The core itself is also vulnerable to stone damage. Internal corrosion caused by old coolant that has never been changed can also eat through the metal in the radiator, causing it to leak.

Most cooling systems today are designed to operate at 8 to 14 psi. If the radiator can't hold pressure, your engine will overheat and lose coolant.

Hoses -- Cracks, pinholes or splits in a radiator hose or heater hose will leak coolant. A hose leak will usually send a stream of hot coolant spraying out of the hose. A corroded hose connection or a loose or damaged hose clamp may also allow coolant to leak from the end of a hose. Sometimes the leak may only occur once the hose gets hot and the pinhole or crack opens up.

Freeze plugs -- These are the casting plugs or expansion plugs in the sides of the engine block and/or cylinder head. The flat steel plugs corroded from the inside out, and may develop leaks that are hard to see because of the plug's location behind the exhaust manifold, engine mount or other engine accessories. On V6 and V8 blocks, the plugs are most easily inspected from underneath the vehicle.

Heater Core -- The heater core is located inside the heating ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) unit under the dash. It is out of sight so you cannot see a leak directly. But if the heater core is leaking (or a hose connection to the heater core is leaking), coolant will be seeping out of the bottom of the HVAC unit and dripping on the floor inside the passenger compartment. Look for stains or wet spots on the bottom of the plastic HVAC case, or on the passenger side floor.

Intake Manifold gasket -- The gasket that seals the intake manifold to the cylinder heads may leak and allow coolant to enter the intake port, crankcase or dribble down the outside of the engine. Some engines such as General Motors 3.1L and 3.4L V6 engines as well as 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L V8s are notorious for leaky intake manifold gaskets. The intake manifold gaskets on these engines are plastic and often fail at 50,000 to 80,000 miles. Other troublesome applications include the intake manifold gaskets on Buick 3800 V6 and Ford 4.0L V6 engines.

INTERNAL COOLANT LEAKS
There are the worst kind of coolant leaks for two reasons. One is that they are impossible to see because they are hidden inside the engine. The other is that internal coolant leaks can be very expensive to repair.

Bad head gasket --Internal coolant leaks are most often due to a bad head gasket. The head gasket may leak coolant into a cylinder, or into the crankcase. Coolant leaks into the crankcase dilute the oil and can damage the bearings in your engine. A head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder can foul the spark plug, and create a lot of white smoke in the exhaust. Adding sealer to the cooling system may plug the leak if it is not too bad, but eventually the head gasket will have to be replaced.

If you suspect a head gasket leak, have the cooling system pressure tested. If it fails to hold pressure, there is an internal leak. A "block tester" can also be used to diagnose a leaky head gasket. This device draws air from the cooling system into a chamber that contains a special blue colored leak detection liquid. Combustion gases will react with the liquid and cause it to change color from blue to green if the head gasket is leaking.

Head gasket failures are often the result of engine overheating (which may have occurred because of a coolant leak elsewhere in the cooling system, a bad thermostat, or an electric cooling fan not working). When the engine overheats, thermal expansion can crush and damage portions of the head gasket. This damaged areas may then start to leak combustion pressure and/or coolant.

Cracked Head or Block -- Internal coolant leaks can also occur if the cylinder head or engine block has a crack in a cooling jacket. A combustion chamber leak in the cylinder head or block will leak coolant into the cylinder. This dilutes the oil on the cylinder walls and can damage the piston and rings. If the coolant contains silicates (conventional green antifreeze), it can also foul the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. If enough coolant leaks into the cylinder (as when the engine is sitting overnight), it may even hydro-lock the engine and prevent it from cranking when you try to start it. Internal leaks such as these can be diagnosed by pressure testing the cooling system or using a block checker.

A coolant leak into the crankcase is also bad news because it can damage the bearings. Coolant leaking into the crankcase will make the oil level on the dipstick appear to be higher than normal. The oil may also appear frothy, muddy or discolored because of the coolant contamination.

Leaky ATF oil cooler -- Internal coolant leakage can also occur in the automatic transmission fluid oil cooler inside the radiator. On most vehicles with automatic transmissions, ATF is routed through an oil cooler inside the radiator. If the tubing leaks, coolant can enter the transmission lines, contaminate the fluid and ruin the transmission. Red or brown drops of oil in the coolant would be a symptom of such a leak. Because the oil cooler is inside the radiator, the radiator must be replaced to eliminate the problem. The transmission fluid should also be changed.

continue...

Mar 12, 2010 | 1998 Oldsmobile 88

1 Answer

Loosing antifreeze


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WHERE COOLANT LEAKS OCCUR
Coolant leaks can occur anywhere in the cooling system. Nine out of ten times, coolant leaks are easy to find because the coolant can be seen dripping, spraying, seeping or bubbling from the leaky component. Open the hood and visually inspect the engine and cooling system for any sign of liquid leaking from the engine, radiator or hoses. The color of the coolant may be green, orange or yellow depending on the type of antifreeze in the system. The most common places where coolant may be leaking are:
Water pump -- A bad shaft seal will allow coolant to dribble out of the vent hole just under the water pump pulley shaft. If the water pump is a two-piece unit with a backing plate, the gasket between the housing and back cover may be leaking. The gasket or o-ring that seals the pump to the engine front cover on cover-mounted water pumps can also leak coolant. Look for stains, discoloration or liquid coolant on the outside of the water pump or engine.

Radiator -- Radiators can develop leaks around upper or loser hose connections as a result of vibration. The seams where the core is mated to the end tanks is another place where leaks frequently develop, especially on aluminum radiators with plastic end tanks. On copper/brass radiators, leaks typically occur where the cooling tubes in the core are connected or soldered to the core headers. The core itself is also vulnerable to stone damage. Internal corrosion caused by old coolant that has never been changed can also eat through the metal in the radiator, causing it to leak.

Most cooling systems today are designed to operate at 8 to 14 psi. If the radiator can't hold pressure, your engine will overheat and lose coolant.

Hoses -- Cracks, pinholes or splits in a radiator hose or heater hose will leak coolant. A hose leak will usually send a stream of hot coolant spraying out of the hose. A corroded hose connection or a loose or damaged hose clamp may also allow coolant to leak from the end of a hose. Sometimes the leak may only occur once the hose gets hot and the pinhole or crack opens up.

Freeze plugs -- These are the casting plugs or expansion plugs in the sides of the engine block and/or cylinder head. The flat steel plugs corroded from the inside out, and may develop leaks that are hard to see because of the plug's location behind the exhaust manifold, engine mount or other engine accessories. On V6 and V8 blocks, the plugs are most easily inspected from underneath the vehicle.

Heater Core -- The heater core is located inside the heating ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) unit under the dash. It is out of sight so you cannot see a leak directly. But if the heater core is leaking (or a hose connection to the heater core is leaking), coolant will be seeping out of the bottom of the HVAC unit and dripping on the floor inside the passenger compartment. Look for stains or wet spots on the bottom of the plastic HVAC case, or on the passenger side floor.

Intake Manifold gasket -- The gasket that seals the intake manifold to the cylinder heads may leak and allow coolant to enter the intake port, crankcase or dribble down the outside of the engine. Some engines such as General Motors 3.1L and 3.4L V6 engines as well as 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L V8s are notorious for leaky intake manifold gaskets. The intake manifold gaskets on these engines are plastic and often fail at 50,000 to 80,000 miles. Other troublesome applications include the intake manifold gaskets on Buick 3800 V6 and Ford 4.0L V6 engines.

INTERNAL COOLANT LEAKS
There are the worst kind of coolant leaks for two reasons. One is that they are impossible to see because they are hidden inside the engine. The other is that internal coolant leaks can be very expensive to repair.

Bad head gasket --Internal coolant leaks are most often due to a bad head gasket. The head gasket may leak coolant into a cylinder, or into the crankcase. Coolant leaks into the crankcase dilute the oil and can damage the bearings in your engine. A head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder can foul the spark plug, and create a lot of white smoke in the exhaust. Adding sealer to the cooling system may plug the leak if it is not too bad, but eventually the head gasket will have to be replaced.

If you suspect a head gasket leak, have the cooling system pressure tested. If it fails to hold pressure, there is an internal leak. A "block tester" can also be used to diagnose a leaky head gasket. This device draws air from the cooling system into a chamber that contains a special blue colored leak detection liquid. Combustion gases will react with the liquid and cause it to change color from blue to green if the head gasket is leaking.

Head gasket failures are often the result of engine overheating (which may have occurred because of a coolant leak elsewhere in the cooling system, a bad thermostat, or an electric cooling fan not working). When the engine overheats, thermal expansion can crush and damage portions of the head gasket. This damaged areas may then start to leak combustion pressure and/or coolant.

Cracked Head or Block -- Internal coolant leaks can also occur if the cylinder head or engine block has a crack in a cooling jacket. A combustion chamber leak in the cylinder head or block will leak coolant into the cylinder. This dilutes the oil on the cylinder walls and can damage the piston and rings. If the coolant contains silicates (conventional green antifreeze), it can also foul the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. If enough coolant leaks into the cylinder (as when the engine is sitting overnight), it may even hydro-lock the engine and prevent it from cranking when you try to start it. Internal leaks such as these can be diagnosed by pressure testing the cooling system or using a block checker.

A coolant leak into the crankcase is also bad news because it can damage the bearings. Coolant leaking into the crankcase will make the oil level on the dipstick appear to be higher than normal. The oil may also appear frothy, muddy or discolored because of the coolant contamination.

Leaky ATF oil cooler -- Internal coolant leakage can also occur in the automatic transmission fluid oil cooler inside the radiator. On most vehicles with automatic transmissions, ATF is routed through an oil cooler inside the radiator. If the tubing leaks, coolant can enter the transmission lines, contaminate the fluid and ruin the transmission. Red or brown drops of oil in the coolant would be a symptom of such a leak. Because the oil cooler is inside the radiator, the radiator must be replaced to eliminate the problem. The transmission fluid should also be changed.

continue..

Mar 12, 2010 | 2007 Hummer H3X

1 Answer

The oil is leaking from my car i think that the oil pump is damaged because oil is leaking very bad


Unless you've run it out of engine oil because of the bad leaks , oil leaks are are not a sign of a bad oil pump , what is a sign of a bad oil pump is low or no oil pressure either due to lack of oil for the pump to pick up in the oil sump or either a mechanical failure of the oil pump, in which case you would have some internal damage to your engine. In either case if you plan to keep the car then by all means have the oil leaks investigated and repaired so the the oil stays inside the motor instead of the outside and on the ground making your driveway look horrible...

Oct 05, 2009 | 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

3 Answers

Exhaust leak and oil loss


the valve seals leaking oil inside the cylinder will cause an internal oil leak you can't see. exhaust leak is something different. best of luck.

Aug 06, 2009 | 2005 Kia Rio

3 Answers

Clutch pedal not diengaging the clutch


You need to check the slave/master cylinders for leaking. Loose pedal means there is no liquid inside, clutch is bleeding. Look under the vihicle for leaks and floore inside tha cabin.
Hope that helps
Good Luck

Mar 25, 2009 | 1993 Honda Civic 4 Door

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