Question about Cars & Trucks
What make , model an year vehicle ? You blew a main fuse or fusible link .
Posted on Apr 18, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
sounds like a dead battery to start with. Not even enough juice in the battery to energize the solenoid / brake interlock to get it out of PARK. Hope this helps
Posted on May 05, 2009
SOURCE: turn key to start and nothing
Not if you left your headlights on all night and completely drained the battery. if it is dead, try to jump it, if you get some sort of power with the jumpers attached, go buy a new battery.
Posted on May 29, 2009
try cleaning or replacing battery cables. any corrosion can degrade the voltage. check the wiring behind the fuse block also. (loose wires..) your chevy may also have a fusible link between the battery and the fuse block.
Posted on Nov 07, 2010
Hello! It sounds like the cables (both + and -) are corroded or loose...If you have a volt meter and a wee bit of experience using it, here is a voltage drop test...If you do not have a meter send a comment...Turn the key to on...turn on headlights, and blower motor...Set the meter to its lowest voltage scale...Place the positive probe on the center of the + battery post...Place the negative meter probe on the other end of the cable where it connects to the starter...Meter must read less than .03 volts...Next place the + probe on the center of the - battery post...The - probe on bare metal of the engine block...Meter must read less than .05 volts...If one or both readings are incorrect the problem is poor cable connections...If the cable ends that hook to the battery are corroded where the cable is attached to the connector...Replace both - and + cables...Making clean and tight connections on both ends...Send a comment....Guru...............Saailer
Posted on Feb 09, 2011
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Apr 15, 2017 | Jeep Cars & Trucks
Jan 12, 2015 | 1995 Mercury Tracer
I am seeing a lot of mustangs are having battery draining issues and I wish to share some simple solutions found while working on a friends 03 GT 4.6ltr.
In a quiet area, key switched off, hood up, Listen carefully close to alternator. I heard a high pitched hissing/whistle sound at low volume, came from back of alternator. This sound was the voltage regulator/rectifier staying on when key is off due to faulty diodes inside the voltage regulator/rectifier circuit, can cause battery to go dead after car not ran in about 2-7 days.
After having the alternator tested free at a parts store, test showed alternator was good because the faulty diodes in the alternator did not show up on the test, the machine did not test for faulty drain back issues that were present.
There was battery voltage running at all times through the two-wire connector on back of alternator. Disconnect the battery first for safety and to reduce chance of short circuit. The yellow wire/with white stripe is hot while car is off so I traced this from the 2-wire connector on the alternator then closer towards driver side front fender. Next I cut the Yellow/White Stripe wire, spliced a good connection wire to it and ran it through a hole in the fire-wall to the fusebox(under dash), connected it to a 15a fuse that does not get used but has power when key is turned on but no power when key is off.
The purpose for re-routing the hot wire to the alternator, is to turn off the alternator charging circuit when the key is turned off so it may not run down the battery. I am seeing good results with this fix(or patch) so far. No More Parasitic Battery Drain!
Another fix can be to change the small pulley on the alternator to a larger pulley so the alternator does not spin too fast, putting too much energy through the diodes can cause a charging system to act a fool. So if you have charging issues and have an alternator changed, putting a larger pulley on can make sense turn into saved dollars(especially on high revving engines).
I hope this info helps to solve some draining battery and/or alternator issues.
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