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I just replaced battery and alternator. Now there isn't even power to the dash lights. I turned the key after it was put back together,heard a pop then nothing.

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 11,086 Answers

What make , model an year vehicle ? You blew a main fuse or fusible link .

Posted on Apr 18, 2017

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

cadman000
  • 607 Answers

SOURCE: it wont start turn key dash lights up nothing happens

sounds like a dead battery to start with. Not even enough juice in the battery to energize the solenoid / brake interlock to get it out of PARK. Hope this helps

Posted on May 05, 2009

  • 136 Answers

SOURCE: turn key to start and nothing

Not if you left your headlights on all night and completely drained the battery. if it is dead, try to jump it, if you get some sort of power with the jumpers attached, go buy a new battery.

Posted on May 29, 2009

  • 574 Answers

SOURCE: New Battery - Now no power at all. Cables are secure.

you dont have a good ground.

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

autodidact66
  • 116 Answers

SOURCE: battery is charged, when key turned nothing

try cleaning or replacing battery cables. any corrosion can degrade the voltage. check the wiring behind the fuse block also. (loose wires..) your chevy may also have a fusible link between the battery and the fuse block.

Posted on Nov 07, 2010

saailer
  • 1868 Answers

SOURCE: Turn the key, heard starter solenoid pop, clicking

Hello! It sounds like the cables (both + and -) are corroded or loose...If you have a volt meter and a wee bit of experience using it, here is a voltage drop test...If you do not have a meter send a comment...Turn the key to on...turn on headlights, and blower motor...Set the meter to its lowest voltage scale...Place the positive probe on the center of the + battery post...Place the negative meter probe on the other end of the cable where it connects to the starter...Meter must read less than .03 volts...Next place the + probe on the center of the - battery post...The - probe on bare metal of the engine block...Meter must read less than .05 volts...If one or both readings are incorrect the problem is poor cable connections...If the cable ends that hook to the battery are corroded where the cable is attached to the connector...Replace both - and + cables...Making clean and tight connections on both ends...Send a comment....Guru...............Saailer

Posted on Feb 09, 2011

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2008 jeep wrangler, no power to ignition or accessories, after replacing starter.


Take it to a shop. U fu--ed up royally doing the swap. If you had done the job correctly you would not be having this problem. Decent thing to do at this juncture is help your buddy pay for the correct repairs.

Apr 15, 2017 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

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Starer is always on even when the key is off. Cooling Fan turns on when key is turned off.


the alternator needs attention. When you jumped another car ( probably did it incorrectly there may have been a power surge that blew out a rectifier in the diode plate.. As there is no DC power being generated the vehicle was running on battery power and so the lights dimmed and the battery went flat
take the toggle switch back out because if it need one it would already have one and by putting in the switch you have created more problems that what you hoped to fix.

Jan 12, 2015 | 1995 Mercury Tracer

1 Answer

2003 mustang gt drains battery in 2 days


03 Mustang GT (Parasitic) Battery Drain Fix
welcome.gif
Hello,
I am seeing a lot of mustangs are having battery draining issues and I wish to share some simple solutions found while working on a friends 03 GT 4.6ltr.

In a quiet area, key switched off, hood up, Listen carefully close to alternator. I heard a high pitched hissing/whistle sound at low volume, came from back of alternator. This sound was the voltage regulator/rectifier staying on when key is off due to faulty diodes inside the voltage regulator/rectifier circuit, can cause battery to go dead after car not ran in about 2-7 days.

After having the alternator tested free at a parts store, test showed alternator was good because the faulty diodes in the alternator did not show up on the test, the machine did not test for faulty drain back issues that were present.
Alternator on-car-fix:

There was battery voltage running at all times through the two-wire connector on back of alternator. Disconnect the battery first for safety and to reduce chance of short circuit. The yellow wire/with white stripe is hot while car is off so I traced this from the 2-wire connector on the alternator then closer towards driver side front fender. Next I cut the Yellow/White Stripe wire, spliced a good connection wire to it and ran it through a hole in the fire-wall to the fusebox(under dash), connected it to a 15a fuse that does not get used but has power when key is turned on but no power when key is off.

The purpose for re-routing the hot wire to the alternator, is to turn off the alternator charging circuit when the key is turned off so it may not run down the battery. I am seeing good results with this fix(or patch) so far. No More Parasitic Battery Drain!

Another fix can be to change the small pulley on the alternator to a larger pulley so the alternator does not spin too fast, putting too much energy through the diodes can cause a charging system to act a fool. So if you have charging issues and have an alternator changed, putting a larger pulley on can make sense turn into saved dollars(especially on high revving engines).

I hope this info helps to solve some draining battery and/or alternator issues.

thanks.gif for reading,

TyBorg1

Apr 12, 2012 | 2003 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

99 Mercury Cougar 2.5 won't turn over, or jump


The alternator light comes on when the field voltage drops below a certain voltage. There is a possibility the connector to the alternator is corroded, as this is commmon, and may be a source for a false indication of trouble. There is also the possibility the regulator is failing. If the voltage was below 13.8 volts when he measured the voltage, he was only reading battery voltage. if he measured between 14.2 and 14.8 volts the alternator was putting out power.

An indirect way of checking is turn on the headlights, high beam when it is idling at night. turn on the heater so you can see the lights dim slightly, and then step on the accelerator to bring engine speed up to about 1200 RPM- the lights should get brighter. If they do not, the alternator is not putting out current like it should be.

Load testing would only measure the battery, it would not load the engine at all if the alternator is not putting out power. If the engine bogged down when alternator is load tested, the alternator is putting out power. The alternator is converting engine power to voltage and current to charge the battery, hence the load on the engine.

If the alternator has 75000 miles on it, replacing it is a pretty good idea as the brushes are quite worn at this point. That should remedy the situation.

It would also probably be a good idea to replace the starter solenoid. Turning the key 2 or 3 times before the starter engages is never a good sign.

The only way the heater might enter into your situation is if something is not shutting off when the key is in the off position or removed. Those phantom loads will find an electrical path to ground through the fan motor. If you have installed anything aftermarket that can be powered up without the key needing to be in the ignition is your culprit. The pahnatom loads like that can discharge a battery completely in a matter of just a few days.

Jan 16, 2012 | 1999 Mercury Cougar

2 Answers

1990 buick no start turn key dash lights go out and all is dead


When you say "turn key dash lights go out and all is dead", do the lights come back on when you turn the key back to "off"?
With key off, try turning on your headlights- are they bright?
Flip to high beams-do they get brighter?
**If lights get dim while trying this, it's the battery-(dead/needs charged or replaced-which may have been caused by a bad alternator).
Leave lights on, now turn your ignition switch to "on"-do the lights get dim or go out?
Try and start the car-anything change?
If the lights were fine until you tried to start the car, more than likely your battery terminals need cleaning/tightening.
The lights should at least get dim when you try and start the car but only while the starter turns over: when the engine is running your lights (as well as all your other electrics) are powered by the alternator.
If you do all this and lights are okay all through this procedure, your problem is probably in your starter circuit. (Starter relay, ignition/key switch)

Hope this helps.

Dec 16, 2009 | 1990 Buick Riviera

1 Answer

2002 Chevy s10 electrical problems


Not to well versed on the S-10 electrical system but I would take a look at the voltage regulator.
It sounds like there is a malfunction that charges your battery sometimes but shorts out the alternator other times. Try having it tested or replace it
WD-40 will not do the trick for cleaning your terminals. WD-40 was developed during the 2nd WW to combat moisture in radio equipment in the South Pacific. WD stands for water displacement and the 40 is for formula #40. To clean the terminals you must disconnect them and use an abrasive such as emery cloth to remove the corrosion. They should be brite and shiny when you put them back together. I always cote mine wit dei-electric grease before re-assembly

Nov 20, 2009 | 2002 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

The battery dash light, the parking brake light, the brake failure light flicker faintly to bright to faint while I drive and it died on me. when I tried to start the car the following lights came on...


Replace the alternator,and clean the battery cable ends real shiny,no grey,or black film left on the cable ends that connect to the battery.Alternator does not have enough power to run the ignition and all it`s assesories.

Oct 28, 2009 | 1990 Volvo 240

2 Answers

My 96 chevy Tahoe wont hold a charge and dies after about an hour. I replaced the alternator and even got a new battery. So where do I need to start looking next


Check the big red wire on the back of the alternator for power. The wire likes to get corroded in half inside the casing but is still held together BY the casing. you can even take a jumper cable from the positive side of the battery to the big/single wire on the back of the alternator. Now , you could have a bad ground also. take a voltmeter or test light and with the ground of the tester on the ground of the battery check for power on the case of the alternator. Another thing , does the alternator or charge light on the dash light up woth the key off? the alternator knows to "start-up" or "field-up" by the power it recieves through the bulb before the engine is started. once the engine starts the small brown wire on the alternator goes hot and shuts the light on the dash off cause it now has power on both legs of it. if the bulb blows then the alternator won't field-up. good luck. Scott

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3 Answers

Car won"t start..acts like the battery is dead .


possibly the alternator. or even a bad connection on one of the wires

Jul 19, 2008 | 2000 Kia Sephia

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