99 Dodge Dakota SLT 4wd lower ball joint zerk size? (On the knuckle) The new joints don't have fittings, just the hole in the side.

Tighten the ball stud nut on the ball stud to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm
tighten the ball stud nut on the ball stud to 60 ft . lbs (81Nm)

Unless the outer tie rods or lower ball joints have been replaced than there will not be any grease zerks. If the outer tie rods have been replaces the zerks will be on top. If the ball joints have been replaced the zerk will be on the side or the bottom.

Remove front wheel (axle stand under chassis).
Remove hub nut (32mm).
Disconnect steering track rod ball joint (leave nut on last few threads for protection 22mm then strike steering arm part of knuckle to shock pin free).
Remove brake caliper & disc. Hang caliper out of way. No need to disconnect brake hose.
Disconnect ABS sensor at top arm area and unclip from mount.
Loosen top ball joint nut. Strike part of knuckle where pin goes through to shock it free. leave nut on loose for now.
Undo lower ball joint pinch bolt & remove. This will probably be seized & will require plenty of penetrating oil & patience to get out.
Next the lower ball joint pin needs to come out of the knuckle so the knuckle can be taken off. You will probably have to beat a chisel into the split portion to open it slightly as the ball joint pin will be rusted in.
Now you have plenty of space to remove the ball joint from the lower arm. Jack vehicle & move stand to under lower arm just in enough to allow ball joint to be removed.
Remove circlip & hammer ball joint out. Use a suitable drift so as not to accidently miss & burr lower arm.
Now the part the perfectionists are not going to approve of.
Heat the hole in the arm gently with a torch (no need to get it glowing red hot but pretty hot!). You will know when its right by trying the old joint (you will be able to get it in position by hand easily without hammering). Now put the new ball joint in place & quickly & drench with cold water before any heat from the arm damages the new ball joint. Fit new circlip.
Reassemble everything in reverse.
There are other ways to do this job but I found this the most practicle for DIYer without special tools.

the lower ball joint is pressed into the lower control arm. You will need a ball joint press to remove and install the ball joint. The other option is to replace the lower control arm.

Some parts store will have presses for loan. You will have to check around and see if any in your area have these. If you can't find one you could always pull the control arm and bring it to a shop or machine shop and have them swap the ball joint.

Its a pretty simple procedure.

1. remove the wheel
2. remove the pinch bolt that secures the knuckle to the ball joint.
3. separate the lower control arm from the knuckle.
4. remove snap ring from the ball joint (if it has one)
5. use a ball joint press to press out the old ball joint.
6. press in the new ball joint.

if you don't have a press than you can remove the lower control arm by following steps 1-3 above. then remove the bolt from the front bushing. Remove the stamped steel skid pan from the sub frame. Remove the rear lower control arm bushing mounting bolts.

If you have any questions I'll be happy to answer them.

Remove the brake caliper by removing the two bolts that connect it to the steering knuckle. Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and retaining nut. Pry the steering knuckle up and away from the lower ball joint. Unscrew the grease fitting from the bottom of the lower control arm. Press the lower ball joint out of the control arm using a ball joint remover set.
Press the lower ball joint into the control arm using a ball joint installation tool. Remove the block of wood supporting the upper control arm. Install a new cotter pin through the ball joint stud.Install the grease fitting on the bottom of the ball joint. Use a c-clamp to push the piston back into the brake caliper. Reinstall the wheel assembly. Here you can find the quality parts http://www.buyautoparts.com/steering_system.htm

Hi.




1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove tire and wheel assembly, then install modified outer seal protector No. J34754, or equivalent, Fig.3 .
3. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin and nut, then loosen ball joint from steering knuckle using tool No. J-29330, or equivalent.
4. Position a suitable pry bar between suspension support and lower control arm and separate lower ball joint from steering knuckle. On some models, it may be necessary to remove nut attaching link to stabilizer shaft.
5. Locate center of rivet body and mark with a center punch.
6. Using a 1/8 inch drill, drill pilot holes completely through rivets. Using a 1/2 inch drill, drill final holes through rivets to ensure fitting of new ball joint.
7. Remove ball joint from lower control arm.
8. Assemble new ball joint to lower control arm with bolts provided in service package, Fig.9 . Tighten bolts to specifications.
9. Insert ball joint stud into steering knuckle and tighten nut to specifications, then install cotter pin.
10. Install wheel and tire and check front wheel alignment.

I hope this helps you.

Thanks.

Hope this helps and please don't forget to rate! Thank you!



Front ball joint with heat shield

Remove and Replace-

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
   
3. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
   
4. Unfasten the retaining bolts, then remove the ball joint heat shield.
   
5. Remove and discard the lower ball joint cotter pin.
   
6. Remove the ball joint nut.
   
7. Loosen, but do NOT remove, the stabilizer shaft bushing assembly bolts.
   
8. Separate the ball joint from the strut/knuckle assembly using ball joint/tie rod puller J-35917 or equivalent.
   

Do NOT damage the halfshaft boots when drilling out the ball joint rivets.

1. Drill out the rivets retaining the ball joint to the knuckle strut assembly and remove the ball joint from the knuckle. Use a 1/8 in. drill bit. Refer to the instructions in the ball joint replacement kit.
   

To install:

1. Position the lower ball joint in the strut/knuckle assembly.
   
2. Install the four ball joint bolts and nuts, as shown in the ball joint kit and tighten to specifications.
   
3. Install the ball joint-to-lower control arm. Install a new ball joint-to-lower control arm nut.
   
4. Tighten the stabilizer shaft bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
   
5. For 1988-91 vehicles, tighten the ball joint-to-lower control arm nut 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) plus at least an additional 90° (11/2flats), plus enough to align the cotter pin hole. Do NOT overtighten.
   
6. For 1992-96 vehicles, tighten the lower ball joint nut to 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm). Tighten to align the next slot in the nut with the cotter pin hole in the stud. Do NOT tighten more than 60° (1 flat) to align with the hole.
   
7. Install a new cotter pin.
   
8. Position the ball joint heat shield and secure with the retaining bolts. Tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
   
9. Install the front wheel and tire assembly, then carefully lower the vehicle.
   
10. Connect the negative battery cable and check for proper suspension operation
    

Removal & Installation NOTE This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.

1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
   
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
   
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Tire and wheel
     
   • Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
     
   • Outer tie rod retaining nut
     
   • Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
     
   • Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
     
   • Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
     
   • Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
     
   • Lower ball joint retaining nut
     
   • Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
     
   • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
     
   • Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
     
4. Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   • Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
     
2. Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
   
   • Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
     
3. Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
   
   • Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
     
   • Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
     
   • Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
     
   • Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
     
   • Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
     
   • Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
     
   • Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
     
   • Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
     
   • Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
     
   • Tire and wheel
     
4. Lower the vehicle
   
   • Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
     
   • Wheel center cap, if removed
     
5. Check the front wheel alignment.
   

I wonder if maybe they aren't screw in instead of press in. I don't know a lot about Chrysler products but I did own a couple of older full size cars and the ball joints screwed in. They had a special socket to change them but I used a pipe wrench and it worked. They had a regular right hand thread. If this doesn't work you may have to repost. Hope this helps.

That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings