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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 12v accessory plug in
the first step is to check the fuse it should be labeled as CIG or AUX
if fuse is not open (blown) check for corrosion and power at ether end of the terminal (where the fuse goes in) using a 12V test light. If it does not light then the problem is between the fuse panel and battery, but if it lights check the power side of plug in (the sides are the ground and the circle in the bottom is the positive) with the test light. If there is no light that means a disconnected or cut wire on the positive side, but if it does light then there is a cut or disconnected wire on the negative side ether one may need to be further investigated and repaired.
also remove panel and check to see if the wires have been unplugged from the end of the plug in
Posted on Oct 09, 2008
SOURCE: speedometer quits or goes wonky
All of those things might be related to one anther, then again they may not. ALL of those things are controlled by the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) module. The IPC turns the brake and ABS lights on or off depending on data that it receives from the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The IPC displays the vehicle speed as determined by the IPC. The IPC calculates the mileage based on the class 2 vehicle speed message from the PCM. The IPC calculates vehicle speed based on the class 2 wheel speed message from the EBCM if a loss of communication or malfunction occurs with the PCM. The speedometer defaults to 0 km/h (0 mph) if the IPC detects a loss of class 2 communications with both the PCM and the EBCM.
To make all of this as simple as possible, you need to scan ALL of your modules for fault codes to help in eliminating possible causes for the problems you are experiencing.
Please note that MOST generic OBD scan tools CANNOT access all of the data information that will be required to properly diagnose this problem.
Also note that when really erratic or as you say, "wonky" things are happening, the VERY FIRST thing you should check is your BATTERY and CHARGING SYSTEM. I have seen many things like this happen because a battery has a shorted cell or an alternator has bad diodes, or both!
I had a Cadillac just last week that another shop had put a rack and pinion unit into it at a cost to the customer of $800 because his variable-assist steering was doing goofy things and was setting fault codes. The customer brought it to me when the problem continued and the other shop refered him to me. The techs at the other shop said they "ignored" the "Low Voltage At Module" codes because they and the customer allready knew that the battery was bad??? To which, I said WHAT!!!???
I fixed the steering by replacing the battery.
( The computer was suffering from dimentia caused by malnutrition )
Posted on Aug 07, 2011
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