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I unhooked the line to the valve body run the pump circulating the fluid into the rescue . It pumps a stream on and off of fluid is this right or is it suppose to be a steady stream?

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If your talking about a transmission flush and fill machine then yes that is how they work.

Posted on Apr 16, 2017


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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I changed the power sterring pump blead the system. I still dont have power.. What to look 4 next

What is year--make--model?
Usually with new pump, I rotate the old fluid out while putting new fluid in, that goes with the power steering pump change.
I take the return line loose from pump that should be low pressure line, usually held on with hose clamp. The high pressure line should have threaded fitting.
Aim the return line into container, turn pulley with my fingers, the old fluid should come out return line. At the same time, you have to add new fluid to the pump reservoir. When the fluid from the return line runs clear/new fluid, your done.
If no circulation, maybe a faulty or clogged power steering line?

Mar 03, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why is my power steering pump still screaming?

The screaming is caused by the pressure relief valve located inside the pump body opening.

This means that power steering fluid that should be circulating through the power steering servo is partially blocked.

This could be a safety problem in the making. I strongly suggest you take it to a trustworthy shop for a checkout.

Mar 15, 2015 | 2001 Oldsmobile Silhouette

2 Answers

How do you change power steering fluid on 1994 toyota pickup DLX with 4 cyl. engine

Should have done it when you had everything unhooked.

Rather than disconnect the hoses I use the trigger unit from a plastic spray bottle to pump the fluid out of the PS reservoir. Just unscrew the spray tip on the trigger unit, drop the tube section into the PS reservoir and pump out the old fluid into a container using the trigger. (If the plastic tube has a tiny filter on the end just cut it off before you insert it.) Then refill the reservoir and take the car for a short drive to circulate the new fluid. Then do it again. Empty and refill.

In a few days or a week, repeat the process (2 more empty and refills)and you will end up with nice new fluid in the system. If you like do it a 5th time in a week or so (1 more empty and fill) but at that stage you should find you are pumping pretty clean fluid out.

Not the most efficient system but it is very easy to do, takes little time and you do not need to go disconnecting pump lines which I would rather no do..
I do it this way on all my own cars every few years because it is easy, clean and works well and keeping the fluid clean and fresh means less wear on the pump due to contaminants and fluid deterioration.

If you get air in the system because you run the fluid level below where the lines fit to the reservoir don't worry. The air will be removed when you drive the car and turn the steering wheel back and forth. I don't run the fluid below the line connection when I remove old fluid from the reservoir.

Feb 28, 2015 | 1994 Toyota Pickup

1 Answer

2000 electraglide, trying to bleed brakes on the rear master cylinder. I take the cap off master cylinder put a hose on bleeder valve, pump up break and hold it down crack the valve and nothing comes out....

does the pedal have pressure then go down after valve is cracked? With a hose on the nipple to a bottle to catch the fluid, press rear brake pedal down. Don\'t pump the brakes. Crack the bleeder valve while continuing to press down on the pedal. Once the pedal reaches the limit of its travel close the valve. Once the valve is closed; and not before; release the pedal and let it return to its at rest position. Repeat this process until you have good pedal without the need to pump, good clean fluid is coming out the valve, and no air is in the fluid coming out the valve. Be sure not to let the fluid in reservoir get too low or you will suck in air and need to start over and don\'t press the pedal too quickly or you can shoot a stream of brake fluid out the reservoir.

In very extreme cases, if you have lost prime in the master cylinder, it may be necessary to bleed the master cylinder first. THIS IS A LAST RESORT. Remove the brake line from the master cylinder. Try to limit the loss of fluid from the brake line to bare minimum. Thread a nipple into the master cylinder. Run a hose from the nipple into the reservoir. Be sure the hose stays submerged in the fluid in the reservoir and pump the brake until no bubbles come out the hose. Remove the nipple and reinstall the brake line. Slowly press down the brake pedal while tightening the line to minimize the air bubble in the brake line. Again be sure not to release the pedal until the line is tight. Then proceed to bleed the brakes as you normally would. Do not pump the brakes up. Just press the pedal down, crack the valve, close the valve, release the pedal, repeat.

Aug 24, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do I bleed the brakes on my 1989 mazda b2600 pick up?

Bleeding brakes is the same on all vehicles (typically) to do it right, it takes two people. One to pump the brakes, and one to crack the valve. If you don't do it properly, you will get air up in the lines. (which is the opposite of bleeding them) First, you should make sure the reservoir under the hood is full, and you should continually check it to keep it full. If it runs too low, you can get air in the system. Typically, one person pumps the brakes (brake pedal) and holds foot on pedal. The other person will get under the car, and with a wrench the proper size, "crack" the valve to allow a stream of fluid to come out. (YOu have to remove the wheel to access the bleeder screw/valve usually) You want to Ideally open the valve, and then when the stream slows down, you want to close the valve while there is still a "positive" flow of fluid coming out. It you wait too long until the stream stops flowing, you can get air in the line, especially if person A takes their foot off the pedal and allows it to retract...this will 'suck' air up the line. You want air to go "out" the line.

You need to continually do this on all wheels until there is no more air in the system. You should start with whichever wheels are furthest away from the reservoir. (usually start with the rear) Do each wheel in succession. You would probably have to do it around all 4 a couple of times.

The problem with this method is that it to get the air out, you are trying to push the air "down" which is against the natural flow, since air naturally rises. There are brake bleeder tools where you can pump fluid "into" the bleeder screw, which then forces the air "up" where it naturally wants to go, and also makes bleeding brakes a one person job...but you need to get the tool. Either way will get the job done.

Jul 21, 2014 | 1988 Mazda B2600 Cab Plus

3 Answers

I oown a 1999 jeep grand cherokee laredo replaced front windshield wiper pump on resevoir but still no fluid to windshield and i can hear pump.what is my next step.

the hose going from pump to sprayer could be cloged or the sprayer it self is get small wire to unclog sprayer and check hose

Jan 19, 2011 | Jeep Grand Cherokee Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

The power steering has been slugish and making a noise after driving for a length amount of time. Yes the fluids have been checked and is full.

what noise you hearing , are hearing it from the power steering pump, will if is that -- that mean the pump is bad --- it going

Aug 04, 2010 | 2001 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer


Probably a security system, battery was unhooked.
Some Fords also have two fuel pumps, one in the tank, and a secondary one in the frame rail.

Mar 12, 2010 | 1998 Ford Windstar

2 Answers

Trans still wont engage

If there is no fluid when you take off one of the lines (check both: the cooler might be plugged) while the engine is running, and there is fluid in the trans, then you have a bad pump inside the trans, or the valve body fell off. Either way, it's probably not going to engage. Ever.

May 06, 2009 | 1995 Ford Bronco

2 Answers

2000 blazer 4.3 hard to start (fuel problem)

Do you have the fuel tester hooked the in the overgrown air valve on the fuel rail in the back of the engine? Or do you have the fuel line unhooked in the back and hooked to the pressure pump? You want the fuel pressure to be in that 60 lb range so if you are hooked into the pressure valve on the fuel rail allowing fuel to go through, then I am betting it is the fuel pressure regulator. To get to that, you have to take the throttle body off and take the plastic plenum that covers the injector packs. On the back of the mount where your six pack of injectors are sits the pressure regulator. If it is faulty then it is dumping fuel instead of holding the pressure like it should.
Get a Chilton or Clymer manual and it shows you in pretty good detail how to fix it. I've done it to my 98 S10 with the same engine.

If you unhooked the fuel line so you are losing pressure from the line back to the pump then I would say your pump is letting fuel back to the tank when it shuts off. My money is on the first possibility though.

Good luck

Mar 28, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

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