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My Toyota 1.3 the plug number3 always black and does not perfom

Toyota tazz 1.3

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

iambanshee74
  • 3489 Answers

SOURCE: toyota rav 4l

ngk v power copper at around $2.49
part number - 2756
happy holidays

Posted on Dec 29, 2009

reedwaan
  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: my toyota tazz (conquest) has a major oil leak. I

you need to replace your top gasket i had the same problem with my tazz the car decided to start over heating and used alot of water so take it away and have it fixed before your problem becomes bigger and i payed R1000 to have my car fixed properly

Posted on Feb 17, 2010

  • 456 Answers

SOURCE: My Toyota Tazz is constantly losing water. I

hi.

there are too many possible causes to list.

they range from a loose clip on a pipe costing a few pence to replace, all the way up to a cracked head costing hundreds to repair.

if you cannot see an obvious leak, then you may need to have the cooling system pressure tested to find where the fault is.

a leak may be seen as a pale brown mark inside the engine bay.

sorry i cannot be more specific on causes, but there are so many that is impossible to narrow it down on an advice site like this.

it does need to be sorted though, as a water leak means you have a risk of total water loss, overheating, and serious engine damage.

Posted on May 16, 2011

SOURCE: Toyota 2002 Tazz Manual

my tazz gooi een van die vonkproppe nat met olie. wat ek ek doen om die probleem op te los?

Posted on Jan 22, 2013

cpsnyman
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Toyota Tazz window winder

Toyota Tazz driver side window refused to wind properly. Problem was that winder mechanism and window separated - old glue. Found some input from Ben on this forum. Some pointers after doing the job today.
Step 1 - remove the arm rest - two screws
Step 2 - remove the screw holding the door opener handle.
Step 3 - remove the C-clip holding the winder handle. The clip is round but the ends are slightly bent outward - to fit back easily. Use a large screwdriver to force a small opening (thus moving the panel slightly inward). I took a piece of thin solid wire and bent it into a loop. This looped wire I hooked around the one end of the clip and pulled in the opposite direction towards the inside of the car. The open end is towards the part of the handle you wind. Make sure the top of the handle faces towards the interior of the car (door is open wide). The clip shot off (as Ben warned) but landed in the car.
Step 4 - the door handle (square) must be slid forward and outward towards you. Will now be loose but is held by the rod going to the lock.
Step 5 - loosen all clips carefully by pulling the panel forward - large screwdriver works.
Step 6 - lift up the panel - and push the door handle holder through the hole in the panel. The panel will now be free.
Step 7 - the window can be removed in this case where window and mechanism seperated by simply pulling the window upwards and outwards.
Step 8 - I used a small grinder and removed most of the glue - but not all.
Step 9 - put the window back into the door making sure it is correctly aligned in the side-sliders.
Step 10 - I used an epoxy 2-part glue (Pratley) and placed some glue in the holders. Position the window and mechanism correctly (using glue I left as marker). Note that only 2 holes in door panel can be used to see or fit glue.
Step 11 - Mix more glue and apply front and back. Now place some grease in the mechanism rail (horizontal) and wind window to the top. Leave to dry.
Step 12 - replace all in reverse. Clip pushes on easily - I used a small long-nose pliers.

Cheers,
Chris Snyman

Posted on Feb 03, 2013

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