Question about Yamaha Cars & Trucks
I replaced caliber, and shock, and disc in rear, due to caliber and rear brake pad's melt down or lock up. Now all new parts in,the spring is fine and works as it should, but can't free up my brake pedal, so that I can bleed the system and add new fluid.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
have one person in the blazer pumping the brake pedal and then hold to the floor, crack the bleeder then tighten, release pedal, repeat till all air is out one side at a time, if this does not work then your ABS unit is bad witch if u follow your lines from your master cylinder u will find a black box with a motor on it, or the master cylinder itself is bad, it also can cause u to have no pedal, replace the master cylinder first, most likely cheaper.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
u will need to check the wheel speed sensors behind the brake rotors to see if they got damaged or disconnected during the brake job, as long as the ABS light is on the Anti-lock brake system is disabled, regular braking without the need of ABS will feel fine.
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
you have to fitt the caliper realy tight to get a good hand brake..remove the caliper..With pads in place. Press the brake to push out the piston.Only a little.Then replace the caliper with it realy tight onto pads.Then work the handbrake up and down a few times then you should be ok.Dont worrie about the brake being a bit tight.Just take it for a short run then.It will losen up.The handbrake is self adjusting.
Posted on May 31, 2009
SOURCE: Spongy brakes 1996 Chevy C1500
You can adjust the shoes outward on the rear by removing the wheels and drums, then above the axle but below the wheel cylinder you will see an arm that is horizontal, pushing both of the shoes outwards. There should be an adjustment nut that you can turn to extend the arm to push the shoes out.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
Posted on Jan 30, 2010
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