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The problem here is the wiring harness where it travels from the door into the door frame. Constant opening and closing of the driver's door bends the wires back and forth until they work harden and snap. This issue ONLY happens on the driver door.
Once you get inside there, you can check with a multimeter and replace that wire.
Owen, Try this Get in close doors, don't lock them. Put key in, cycle the key on & off 4 times. Ending in the off position. After the 4th time & within 10 seconds, press the lock switch on the drivers door. If you here a chime, they are reprogramed
sounds like the door sensor switch is malfunctioning and when almost closed it reacts like it is blocked (such and kid in way) and opens for safety. try flushing trach with hose and try again, if not u need a good repair manual such as chiltons($25 most parts stores ) or see mechanic
Most likely the problem is a broken wire in the harness - this is a common problem with these doors. You can see the harness in the track beneath the door sill. It is inclosed in a plastic 'chain like' mechanism. You can remove the entire harness as follows. Open the door 1/2 way and disconnect the connector on the inside bottom of the door. Pry out the fasteners holding the harness up to the door bottom support. remove the 2 screws on the bootm support cover. Carefully pry the end of the 'chain' down with a flat screwdriver.
Now pry up the door sill cover - it will just snap up. Pul back the door gasget at the bottom of the post and pry back the plastic post cover. You will find another connector under this near the seat belt mount. Disconnect this and barefully pry out the other harness attachments. A new cable runs about $70 from the dealer but I repaired mine. You cannot simply splice at the break because the break occured at the max stress point. Use a new piece of wire - I cut open a heavy duty extension cord and used on wire from it as these are designed to flex many times without breaking. Splice near the ends of the harness using crimps and/or solder and shrink tubing. Put it back and it should work.
could be a partially broken wire in the wiring harness that runs in the door track. the wires are inside what looks like a plastic chain that allows it to move with the door and have seen them partially break not allowing power to flow the whole time
Here is a quick HowTo on programming your own keyless entry:
1) Turn ignition to OFF. 2) Locate the Data Link Connector, its a black 16 pin connecter that is under the driver's side dash, right where your right knee would be. You have to look up into the dash from below to see it. 3) Ground pin 1 of the Data Link Connector by taking a wire or paper clip and running it from pin 1 to pin 4. Pin 4 is ground so you can just short pin 1 to 4 and it will be grounded. Grounding pin 1 tells the system you are ready to reprogram it. 4) Close all of your doors. 5) Turn the key to ACC then back off. The power door locks will lock/unlock. This is the signal that the system is ready for reprogramming. 6) Push a button on your key fob, doesn't matter which button. 7) If you have 2 key fobs, then press a button on the 2nd fob within 1 minute of pressing a button on the 1st fob. Both must be programmed at the same time. If you only have 1 fob then press a button 2 more times to signal that you only have one. 8) The doors will lock/unlock to signal the codes were received. 9) Remove the jumper wire from the data connector.
The driver's side door lock button is designed not to lock from the inside unless the handle is pulled, or the power switch is used. This serves as a reminder to not lock your keys inside.
If you are inside, and push down on the button (not the switch) hard enough to lock it, you've probably damaged it.
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