I have a MVP WT-215 superlift for motor cycles and various other things. Can i get a break down on the jack, i may have lost a ck ball or something.

Videos and text based instructions.

https://www.google.com/search?q=MVP+Super+Lift++F-395+WM+add+oil

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with this little bit of information i suggest you do a web search using your question. " help repairing my MVP F765WM hydraulic jack " and look at the youtube videos to see if anyone there has the same issue as you do and found a fix. because this is a safety thing be extra careful as if it fails after you fix it bad things can happen. if your not a mechanical person then i would go get a new one. it is not worth having this fail if your under what is is holding up. as most people forget they need to use some type of support when working under a machine that is help up with a hydraulic jack. but it's you life.

Chevy vehicles do not heater control valves in the water lines any more...they always rust out and malfunction. What you are probably experiencing is a bad vacuum ball or a vacuum tubing leak in the heater box area under the dash. The control lead that you use to adjust the heater (temp and direction), is vacuum controlled from engine vacuum. Engine vacuum varies under load and at idle, so the manufacturer put vacuum balls under the dash to store vacuum for the controls. When you adjust the heat or direction, vacuum from the balls is diverted to vacuum motors that position the blend doors to pass air thru the heater core or A/C evaporator. Other motors direct their door(s) to position the air to the floor, mid-vents, or to the defroster. A leak in the tubing, ball, or motor can cause the door(s) to retract to default if vacuum drops down as it does at idle. Have the heater box and vacuum system to it checked out.

What make? What model? This could be caused by brake problem, worn front end part (bad ball joint can be very dangerous), or even something simple such a worn tie rod end. If you want to test these things, put jack under lower A arm on one side and just lift the weight off the wheel and put on jack stand. Have a helper wiggle the steering wheel while you look underneath for loose motion at some part. Nothing? Then grab wheel at sides and try to wiggle wheel. Now repeat at top and bottom of wheel. A bad steering damper can also cause this. If you are not experienced at front end work, have alignment shop check things out. A bad ball joint can break and cause you to lose control of the car. GET IT FIXED asap.

hydraulic jack oil. or like me use regular transmission fluid

a good grade hydraulic oil, a lot of part stores sell it if your in a bind and only if you can use ATF

Jack up car use jack stands remove wheel. Get a 3/4 breaker bar and a socket to fit nut on front wheel remove cotter pin remove nut. Loosen nut before jacking up Undo nut on lower ball joint and tie rod. Push down on tie rod hit housing with big hammer it should come right off. Now pry down on the frame holding ball joint and hit the housing with a big hammer it should break loose if it doesn't rent a tool at auto parts store. Pull strut assembly away from axle and pull axle out. When you put new one in push till you here it snap in.

This is common when the ball joints are worn. Replace the ball joints before something catastrophic happens. What can possibly happen is the ball joint breaks and the wheel and hub assembly falls. This can be fatal if this happens while driving. If you need instructions on replacement, let me know.

Without seeing and guessing, I rec taking it into a reputable shop and have someone actually inspect it. Alot of the ideas given you are possibilities but as you mentioned it's not worth it "throwing parts at it only to find problem still exists"

I sounds like it might be a window switch that has gone bad ck the connector at the window motor by connecting a test light across the 2 wires operate both window switches the test light should light If it doesnt then connect the test light to a good ground and back prob the connector on either wire and operate the switch in both directions the test light should light In one position of the switch then ck the other wire the same way and the test light should light up with the switch in the other position (down up) wich ever wire the test light does not light up on needs to be cked for a break. The wires in the the door pass through (the rubber boot that goes from the door to the body ) can break pull the boot loose and pull the wiring out as far as possible to ck for broken wires.