Question about 1996 Ford Contour

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A/c compressor engages intermittently

A/c compressor only intermittently engages low and hi side pressure sensors OK orifice tube not clogged tried jumping the relay still did not work has correct amount of freon When it does engage works till driven but it cools when engaged

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Check the connections on the plug going to the compressor clutch and on the pressure switch on the low side. Also check the gap on the clutch. It may be too wide after where to engage correctly. Good luck.

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

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Replaced all A/C major components (compressor, filter-drier accumulator, and orifice tube) except condenser due to a seized compressor and failed clutch bearing. Flushed system and appeared to have no...


It sounds like you've done just about everything except to check if there is a bad or intermittent wire causing this or perhaps your low-pressure safety cutout switch is possible going bad causing the compressor to kick on and off?

Nov 01, 2013 | Lincoln Town Car Cars & Trucks

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2007 ford KA blowing hot air


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Compressor Checks
checkmark.gif Start with the compressor. Does it engage when you turn on the A/C?
If so, the compressor is working and the A/C system probably contains enough refrigerant to make cold air, so the problem is inside the HVAC unit. Replace the motor that controls the blend air door (this is a difficult job and best left to a professional since it involves tearing apart the HVAC unit -- about an 8 to 10 hour job!).
If the compressor does not engage when you turn on the A/C, see if it will run by jumping the compressor clutch wire directly to the battery (use a fused jumper wire). If the compressor works when you jump it, and the A/C blows cold air, the system contains refrigerant and the fault is likely a bad A/C compressor clutch relay or a bad clutch cycling switch or pressure switch.
If the compressor does not engage when you jump it, the problem is a bad compressor clutch.
If the clutch engages but the compressor does not turn (the belt will start to slip and squeal), the compressor is locked up and you need a new compressor.
If the compressor clutch engages and turns the compressor, but the A/C still does not blow cold air, the system is probably low on refrigerant and needs to be recharged.
Refrigerant Checks
checkmark.gif Connect an A/C pressure gauge to the HIGH SIDE service port (located in the high pressure hose that runs between the compressor and the condenser in the front of the engine compartment). The gauge will tell you if there is any pressure in the system. Simply depressing the service fitting valve with a small screwdriver to see if any refrigerant squirts out is NOT an accurate check because it tell you how much pressure is in the system. It may still have some pressure but not enough to trip the low pressure safety switch so the compressor will engage.
If your A/C system is low or out of refrigerant, check for leaks, then have the A/C system vacuum purged to remove air. After the air is out, it can be recharged with the specified amount of refrigerant. It is important to get any air out as this will reduce cooling efficiency and may make the compressor noisy.
A/C System Functional Checks
checkmark.gif If the refrigeration circuit seems to be working (refrigerant in the system, compressor running and building pressure), but there is still no cooling, the problem might be an obstruction in the orifice tube (located in the high pressure hose between the condenser in the front of the radiator, and the evaporator located in the passenger compartment). A blockage here will prevent the refrigerant from entering the evaporator or recirculating through the refrigeration circuit.
If the orifice tube is plugged, the high side pressure reading will be lower than normal, and the low side reading will also be lower than normal because no refrigerant is circulating through the system.
checkmark.gif If the refrigeration circuit seems to be functioning normally (compressor running, frost or condensation on the high pressure line from the condenser to the evaporator), but no cool air is blowing out of the ducts inside the car (and the blower is working), the fault is likely a BLEND AIR door that is stuck in the HEAT position, or possibly a badly clogged cabin air filter that is restricting airflow. Another possibility would be a fault in the automatic climate control system such as a ad interior temperature sensor or control module.

Sep 28, 2012 | 2007 Ford Ka 1.3

2 Answers

2002 ford mustang ac will not come on. Problem is intermittent. I have checked the low and high pressure switches and fuses. what else is there to check?


When the ac acts up,test voltage at the ac clutch,if there is voltage(12 volts to 14)then the clutch is the problem,also,try and wiggle the low pressure switch ,to see if it tries to come back on,,,have some one put some ac gauges on the ac system and let the ac run,and watch to see if the low side falls down to 25 psi or lower,if it does,then the orifice tube is stopping up.If this was at all helpful,please rate,thank you.

Jul 19, 2010 | 2002 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

Low pressure side of air conditioner reading very high pressure. Compressor may not be engaging??


very high pressure suction will cut by high pressure sensor to command compressor on/off, release refrigerant, check condenser clogging, filter drier expansion valve, or accumulator and orrifice filter and tube

Jun 25, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Where is the orifice tube on a 98 Buick LeSabre located?


not exactly sure but using info below you can find it.

Remember the flow for the a/c system is :
1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator.
2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve)
3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator.
4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer2_bing.gif back to the compressor suction.

There will be about a 1" nut on the low pressure line between the firewall and the compressor. Remove nut and on the male side use a pair of kneedle nose pliers and remove orifice tube. Note orientation of tube.

Replace tube, reassemble, evacuate air from system, recharge with freon.

May 29, 2010 | 1998 Buick LeSabre

2 Answers

A/c compressor continues to cut off/on.Full of


so, basically the compressor still WORKS, but it cuts off and on? they cut off and on alot anyways, but i would say, if it works, you shouldnt have anything to worry about, unless its doing it at ridiculous intervals....in which case you'll want to take it to an AC repair shop, and have the system checked for leaks, and possibly have the system evacuated and flushed.....there might be a valve that is stuck, which would cause the compressor to act erratic, otherwise your drier or evaperator could be clogged.

Sep 24, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Impala

2 Answers

Air conditioning 1996 Ford Explorer


You were not clear, but I assume the compressor runs OK. If not, troubleshoot the electrical to the compressor. Did you replace the orifice tube while it was discharged for service? If not, then check the pressures. If low side pressure is high the tube might be plugged, especially if you truly had a bad compressor. In a properly working system the line should be cold on the evaporator side of the orifice tube when properly charged. If compressor runs, system properly charged and that line is warm then suspect a plugged tube.

Jun 30, 2009 | 1996 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

Air conditioning


I'm not absolutely sure on this one, but many compressors have a low pressure and a high pressure cut off switch. The low pressure switch monitors to make sure there is enough refrigerant in the system. Too low and it cuts off because otherwise your system will ice up (go figure that one out!) The high pressure switch is there to protect from clogs in the system causing damage to the compressor or other system components.

You should have a qualified professional check the system and both of those sensors. You most likely have a clog in the system which can be caused by a broken desiccant bag or a compressor that is beginning to self destruct and some piece of metal is clogging the system in a hose or at the orifice tube.

In any case you need professional help here...

May 07, 2009 | 2004 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

Ac problem


the coil is inside the front of compressor the electrical connector on the compressor that the coil for a block orifice tube forget it high pressure would go up pass 3oo untill pressure sensor cut the compressor you have to look if you have power and ground when the compressor not working or a bad sensor near the dryer 12volt positive bypass that switch i think that what it is, wire beeteen the 2 therminal send power to compressor the pressure that you have mean the ac system get cool off our low side is 40 not block you said 100 somthing the warmer it is the high side is higher our pressure look good its probably a sensor problem look at it pierre

Jul 19, 2008 | 1999 Ford F250 Regular Cab

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