An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
An expert that has over 10 points.
An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.
Re: car wont start after it gets warm
Its due to what is called "vapor locking" the fuel in the lines top of engine gets hot and turns to vapor. the fix can be a new fuel pump if you have low pressure or just a pressure regulator. hope this helps
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If the starter works on the bench and you are manually energising the solenoid (to the little terminal) then it should work on the car if the battery is good and all the wiring and ground connections are good.
Shorting the two large solenoid terminals will just switch on the motor without engaging the pinion.
In your position I would have fitted a temporary starter switch until I found time to sort the problem out.
I suggest you remove the column shroud to expose the ignition switch wiring and bridge the supply to the starter terminal and if it starts the ignition starter switch (or the internal drive) is faulty and if it doesn't there is a wiring problem between the switch and the starter.
There is a safety switch on top of the brake pedal lever or clutch lever which is suppose to prevent lurching on start-ups. It is suppose to insure that the Brake pedal is pushed OR the clutch is down before the engine will crank.
The Ignition switch is interrupted by the above cutout switches. But when Ignition is turned on, the Glow plug timer should click and cycle if Power Relay is giving it juice. So if you do not hear that type of clicking, the glow plugs will stay cold.
I would check to see if power is going to the Power Relay above the glow plug timer, and if it is getting power, does the Power Relay send it to the Timer? The starting circuit is more involved in a Diesel because the fuel must be atomized by heating it for initial starts. But you must be getting this process if jumping the solenoid results in the engine starting.
Therefore the big test is whether the small wire to the starter solenoid is dead when a foot is pressing the Brake or clutch pedal when the Ignition key is in the STARTER position.
So either your Ignition switch is bad at the STARTER terminal position or the signal is interrupted by the anti-lurch Interlock switch. It is quite common for problems with this switch being hit and broken or displaced by the Drivers' feet.
There was also no indication of whether you jumped the solenoid on a warm engine which could atomize the fuel by compression or a very cold engine which needed the glow plugs to work.
Please comment on my info and report your success.
your ignition switch is sticking, and continues to try and send power to the starting system, or,, check the starter relay for a short , you can usually switch relays in the under the hood fuse box, if they are the same size,, so flip a couple of them around, ( so the starter one is good) and try starting the car and see if you get the same results, if so, it's your ignition, if the problem seems to be better, change that replay that was in the starter relay position to begin with .
The main relay is bad. This is located on the driver side above the fuse panel. What happens is the temerature warms up and the soldier seperates. You can either replace this or re-soldier it. The part number is RZ-0088, you can get a new one on ebay. You will need a 10mm socket to get it out, it is behind the cruise control module.
There is either a cable not getting a very good connection, solenoid has problems, or there is a wiring leading to a relay that has a bad connections. How is your ignition? Is it loose or have loose wires?
also check the magnetic switch mounted on the starter housing, is supplied by
current from the starting switch circuit of the ignition switch. This
magnetic action of the switch mechanically engages the starter clutch
assembly and electrically closes the heavy switch which connects it to
the battery. The starting switch circuit consists of the starting
switch contained within the ignition switch, a transmission neutral
safety switch or clutch pedal switch, and the wiring necessary to
connect these in series with the starter solenoid or relay.
ok.. for starters you need to check why you are loosing revs.. it could be your powersteering switch on your steering rack not working.. just bridge switch to test.. revs should not drop on steering.. then check fuel pump relay.. and efi relay.. theese cars are gettin on.. so could be faulty with long use..heat related.. insert a visual inline fuel filter and when it stalls check fuel flow... aswell as put a little fuel in the vacum hose line and see if it starts to confirm its a fuel issue... if the visualis fuel flow than its fuel pump related.. wires can come loose of pump .. as they travell under rear seat.. and into tank.. ... good luck