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Trying to adjust a Holley 1100 carb.

I have a 1962 ford falcon, It has an 1100 holley carb that ran ''poorly''
I pulled it and had it rebuilt. upon initial acceleration, the car cuts out and dies. If I floor it I can get past the ''dead spot'' and keep it running UNTILL someone can by who said they can fix it and now it won't even start! Aaaargh! I would like to find the original setttings and find out why it is dying on me. Can anyone out there help?

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If you can get the carb kit it will have the proper adjustments listed. It sounds like the floats are not adjusted properly.If you can open the bowl and adjust the float up just a little,this will alow a little more gas to stay in the bowl as you take it out.If the float is adjusted down too far you will use the gas before you can replace it in the bowl.good luck!

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

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Have fuel going out of vent tube on my two barrel Holley carb


Maybe the float is stuck or needs adjustment? Maybe a carb kit?
Holley has their own web site, at the bottom of page there is technical resources--library. I just briefly took a look, holley.com

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Daniel, You may have to replace needle and seat in carb. and check float levels. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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For those like me with a good old fashioned Holley type carb, here's a real nice video on the basics. He's gonna be doing more in-depth videos in the future. This cat flat out knows carbs!

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850 double pumper has of idle stumble when going down road


The good thing about a Holley carb is they can be custom built to just about any engine.
The bad thing about Holley carbs is you can work on it for months trying to get everything adjusted right.
You'll have to figure out if it is a lack of fuel or too much air coming in.
The accelerator pump travel can be adjusted up or down as well as the power valve.

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Electric fuel pump most likely has too much pressure for the carb. AFAIK, the Holley 4150/60 & 4165/75 should each demand the usual 4.7-5.3 PSI (4.7 @ idle, 5.3 @ max RPMs), so even the Holley red pump would need some restriction from a regulator. If you want this to be adjusted to its best efficiency, you need to have a fuel pressure gauge installed temporarily, if not on the regulator like I have on my Scout II. FWIW, the regulator I have installed is the Mallory 4307M from CenturyPerformance.com, Summitracing.com, Jegs.com, etc.

http://www.malloryperformance.com/pdf/4307M.pdf

A bad Needle & Seat will do this also, or debris stuck between the Needle and the Seat. This is where light tapping on the bowl helps, but it's best to run the fuel out of the bowl a few times and then the volume flow, or quick filling of the bowl, should loosen up the debris.

You also could have set he fuel float too high. What model carb, the ones I mentioned above (AKA Holley Modular Carbs)? If so, then Holley's site has a tech center & instructions on setting the float(s). www.holley.com

Set the floats carefully and slowly/gradually. Make sure the lock screw is always loose enough before turning the adjustment nut. If you strip out the bowl's threads on an older carb, you'll beat hell finding a replacement. 1/12 turn = 1/32" of fuel height IIRC. You set the fuel level, with pump running (wrap a rag around the carb so gas doesn't leak onto the manifold!!!) so the fuel is just starting to dip out of the "peep-hole" in the side of the float. Removal of the peep/seep-hole screw/plug is necessary first. Clockwise rotation of the nut lowers fuel level IIRC and counter raises fuel level. Again, please check their website. Most people get discouraged when dealing with the Holley Modular Carbs, but they are the simplest and the best carbs on the market. Even if 30+ years old.

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In all my experience, if you know how to correctly tune a edelbrock then go with that, but, holley has outstanding carbs that can muster up to an output of 1,200hp. it would be much cheaper to et a rebuild kit from say, o'reillys, 20-45 dollars depending on which one you have.
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Go to Holley.com they have links to you tube videos showing how to adjust the floats and choke on all their carbs.

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Most likely you have a Holley carb. You may have a 460 engine. If you have the carb with a big vacuum pot in front of the carb, then you have a RPM governor. The RPM governor will work against the 4 barrel.

The main mixture for the idle jets can be adjusted like any old style carb. You may have plastic caps over the idle screws but take them off. Then use a vacuum gauge on any intake fitting and proceed to read the vacuum level as you turn the mixture screws. You want the mixture to reach a maximum RPM, then evenly turn the screw in until the RPM drops slighty and then balance for smoothest idle.

After this step adjust curb idle and see if this helps when the 4 barrel kicks in. Holley has different springs for the vacuum actuated secondaries and they are color coded. If the carb is original it should be right, but if the carb is of unknown origin you can check the proper vacuum spring, main jet, power valve and so on in a good Holley book. The mechanical secondaries are also listed with clearances to hand adjust.

By adjusting the mixture screws you have set the engine to idle just below peak vacuum pressure. This means you should have more vacuum to work the secondaries.

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Question, does it stall, or bog? A few things come to mind. You say the carb. is new, what is the cfm of the carb.? Could be too much carb. for the cam. It could be a problem with the accl. pump on the carb. dumping too much fuel on take off. Have you checked the fuel pressure at the carb. also? You say you checked the timing and vac. advance, but is the timing set high enough? Usually this is a sign of too much fuel being dumped. If you have the chance, try another carb. Let me know.

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