Question about 1999 Saab 9-5

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No boost from the turbo

I have checked all connections, the turbo shaft is turning, i don't see any movement on the wastegate shaft, i hear a noise from the apc, when i **** on the pipe going to the wastegate i don't see any movement, before the booster stopped it was operating in a stuttering way but was doing the business, i think that is all i can say about the problem

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  • 273 Answers

Try getting a new dump valve

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

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Turbo not boosting opel corsa 1.7dti club bakkie


In the old days the turbo would boost as soon as the engine speed was sufficiently high and any over pressure would be dumped by a relief valve or controlled by a wastegate.



In these modern times of electronics the turbo wastegate is normally open instead of normally closed so there is no automatic boost. The engine management system decides when there will be boost and how much boost there will be.



Turbo chargers are amazingly reliable unless they are abused or there has been foreign matter ingress. When looking for the cause of no boost it is wise to disconnect the intake trunking and turn the compressor vanes by hand to ensure all is well.



Disconnect the vacuum line to the wastegate servo and apply suction to the servo to ensure the servo, the linkage and wastegate is moving and in good order.



The next stage is to examine the vacuum line and connections back to source and then ensure the vacuum supply is adequate.



If all is found to be well with those physical checks the cause of no boost is either the failure of one of the vacuum switches (or the electrical wiring or connections to them) or a fault condition exists that has caused the engine management to decide not to provide turbo boost.



In that case diagnostic equipment will be needed.

May 21, 2016 | Opel Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Turbo boost sensor for V40


turbo boost sensor located on the wastegate actuator make sure turbo boost wastegate actuator getting engine vacuum.if waste gate getting vacuum more like boost sensor failed.

Apr 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Turbo not kicking in like it should cant find no leaking pipe and turbo seems to be working fine


In general the possible causes could be:
- Boost pressure sensor harness is open or shorted
- Boost pressure sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty boost pressure sensor
- Faulty Turbo/Super Charger
- Engine over temperature.
- Ignition misfire exceeds the calibrated threshold.
- Faulty Knock sensor (KS)

I would doubt its the turbo as you said it seems to be working just fine (unless the wastegate is stuck open/wastegate seal is cracked). Also if the ignition misfire exceeds the claibrated threshold then I would think you'd hear that in the engine running normally. I would say locate the sensor and replace it?

Hope this helps

Dec 05, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I got a 1994 dodge intrepid and I have 2 codes up on it and i dont know what they are. Code 35 and 45?


Fault Code 35
Description: Radiator fan relay circuit is open or shorted
Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: None

Possible Causes:
Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the logic module and the relay. Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts.

Bad relay - Disconnect the relay and apply 12V across the coil terminals (between the white wire and either of the other two terminals on the small connector). You should hear a click for either of the two termials and the connection between the grey wire and the other two terminals of the large connector should be shorted.

Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- Near 0V or near 12V not detected when the relay is turned on or off, respectively
Results If Component Fails
Fault code 35 is stored.


Fault Code 45
Notes: For Turbo models only

Description: Turbo boost limit exceeded
Power loss light: On
Limp-in mode: None

Possible Causes
Vaccum leak - Check all vaccum lines between the wastegate actuator, manifold, and wastegate solenoid. Also check the line to the MAP sensor. Repair or replace any bad lines.

Wastegate solenoid failure - The wastegate solenoid is located in the right, front fender next to one to three other solenoids. See the Understanding Solenoids page.

Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the logic modle (or SMEC) and the wastegate solenoid. Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts. This condition may be accompanied by a code 36.

Wastegate actuator spring failure - Try to slide the wastegate to wastegate actuator push rod into the actuator. It should not move. Try to pull it out. If it pulls out with little effort (even if it springs back in), replace the actuator.

Jammed wastegate - Disconnect the wastegate actuator pushrod and swing the wastegate arm on top of the turbo. It should have about a 50 degree swing. Make sure the lever and push rod are clear of any obsticles that may cause them to jam (the heat shield below the fuel rail is a major culprit).

Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- MAP sensor output voltage has exceeded overboost cut-off point

zjlimited_942.jpg

Following years are probably the same as 1987, but I don't have any hard data to back that up. Some have said that 4.74V was the max for Turbo I engines of later years. Some information indicates that the Turbo II with an automatic had a cut-off of 4.96V, but I don't know of any Turbo II vehicle that had an automatic transmission.

Results If Component Fails
A fault code 45 is stored, the power loss light is turned on, and the fuel injectors are shut off. Once the boost has fallen to 3 psi to 5 psi, the fuel injectors are turned back on and the power loss light is turned off. The overboost cut-off point for a particular vehicle depends on the year, engine, and transmission.


Keep us updated.

Mar 29, 2011 | 1994 Dodge Intrepid

2 Answers

Hi my smart roadster has recently and suddenly developed a lack of power and the turbo boost guage moves ver little -does this mean it needs a new turbo?


This could also be Safe mode, the below text may help you.

What Is Safe Mode?

Safe mode is the set of parameters that the car will use if it believes there
is a fault with the engine that could cause irrepairable or long term damage.

How Can I Tell If It Is Safe Mode?

If your car suddenly lost power but before that you didn't notice any problems.
If there isn't vast plumes of smoke coming from the exhaust.
If the oil level is OK. If you had all 3 of those, it is almost certainly safe mode.

What Causes Safe Mode?

Generally it is an excess in expected boost pressure entering the engine.
This excess boost from the turbo tends to happen for 4 reasons.

The boost pressure sensor (MAP sensor) is faulty.
The wastegate is seized shut or slightly open.
The wastegate actuator is faulty.
The air line to the wastegate actuator is damaged or off.

Obviously, if the sensor is faulty, it will tell the ECU lies about the boost pressure.
If the wastegate assembly fails in any way it will fail to open to bypass the turbo.
The turbo will continue to spin up, increasing the boost pressure, causing the fault.

How Can I Fix It?

Initially I would suggest disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes (make sure you know your
radio code before doing this), this will turn safe mode off and your car should run normally
again. Drive home with a bit of care, you may find the car might never do it again. If it does
go into safe mode again, you know you have a real problem and not just a glitch.

Wait for the car to cool down and see if the wastegate arm moves freely.
Use the search function of the site for "wastegate service" to see how
you can possibly free up the wastegate assembly which could be seized.

Check the pipe work to and from everything to rule out leaks.

Try and borrow a MAP sensor to test.

As a last resort, book in with a smart specialist who will diagnose the problem

Dec 31, 2009 | 2008 Smart fortwo

1 Answer

I have a focus 2litre zetec with a turbo conversion, it was producing 300 bhp at 17psi, had the turbo reconditioned as it was smoking now max boost on the guage shows about 12 psi.i have checked the boost...


The wastegate may be mal-adjusted now after fitting the new turbo, it sounds like it is shunting boost pressure down the exhaust thru the wastegate valve which is vacuum operated.

Nov 21, 2009 | 2002 Ford SVT Focus

1 Answer

Turbo not working properly, it seems to only go so far then you can hear air rushing out


check the wastegate vacuum diaphragm+hose and wastegate bypass regulator valve and boost pressure recirculation valve.make all hoses is tight.if you losing power remove the turbo check to make sure turbine is turning.if its not spinning fast you will hear air noise.hitting turbine blades.

May 29, 2009 | 2001 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

1 Answer

Boost problem


Check vacuum pump. Be sure lines are good all the way to to wastegate soleniod. be sure wastegate solenoid has power. Confirm rod is connected to solenoid and turbo wastegate.
Also check all plumbing for leaks.

Apr 02, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet C2500

2 Answers

Boost spiking/ over boosting


replace the wastegate vacum lines or wastegate acuator. if they leak it raises the boost. Let me know if its not that.

Oct 11, 2008 | 1994 Subaru Legacy Outdoor

1 Answer

Top end power down


Hi,
It sounds like the turbo boost isn't being controlled properly, but this could be due to several things. Check for splits in the air pipework, and then get the N75 valve checked out - this is the item that opens the wastegate on the turbo, effectively shutting the turbo off. Oh, and check that the wastegate actuating lever isn't seized up...
Hope this helps you a bit. D.

Aug 04, 2008 | 2000 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

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