SOURCE: 2005 Pathfinder Heat Flow problem
I am having/had the same problem. My rear heater has not worked the last 2 winters, still trying to figure that one out. But I think I solved the front heat problem myself. The heater was blowing cold air while idling and hot air when the car was moving.
I jacked up the front of the vehicle, took the cap off of the reserve tank for the radiator, turned the car on and ran the heat (AC off) for 15 minutes. This is supposed to release any air bubbles in the coolant system and I did see air bubbles emerge as I was watching (this might be normal occurance, I'm far from a mechanical expert). Anyway, this did not immediately solve the problem, still blowing cold air as it sat there idling after 15 minutes. Dejected, I put the cap back on, lowered the vehicle and resigned myself to taking it to a dealer.
But a funny thing happened the next day, the coolant level was a lower (no leaks on the floor) so I filled up, and sure enough, when I started the car and let it warm up a little, hot air started coming out of the heater!!!
As far as my wife knows, I fixed the problem for the price of a bottle of coolant, so I am a hero...but at first I thought it didn't work. Here we are a month later and still blowing warm air and haven't had to replace any more coolant...the internet is a wonderful thing!
Hope this works for you, and I hope I can figure out my rear heater problem as well.
SOURCE: 2000 toyota tundra has no throttle response during extreme cold
This throttle body has a TPS ( throttle position sensor) and a Accelerator pedal sensor on it. The TPS is on the drivers side and the APS is on the pass side of the throttle body. When this happened your check engine lite came on then went off when it warmed up and acted normally. The code is still in History codes. Check it with a scan tool. I foget the code number but if it come up with the APS code in History, replace that sensor....not the TPS. It is a sealed sensor that gets moisture in it when the seal deteriates and it freezes in very cold weather.
SOURCE: B 2500 diesel pickup hard start from cold
Hey mate,
I have a Mazda B2200 from 1985, which has the same R2 diesel motor, and I had this same problem, which was exacerbated by the cold of winter....even here in a mild Melbourne.
Each time you turn the ignition on, the QSS (Quick Start System) powers up the glow plugs for about three seconds. This recycles again about three times, then.....nothing. The QSS reckons that you ought to have the bugger running by now!
In my desperation, I located the cable to the four glow plugs, and ran a second wire from the battery (+) via a push-button switch which I installed on the dash. This is my glow-plug BOOST circuit.
Now, when I want to start from c-c-c-cold, I push the button (with the ignition on) for about ten or fifteen seconds, which gives the glow plugs a goodly time to heat up the combustion chamber, and when I hit the starter, she usually fires up with a rattle, and a cloud of grey exhaust smoke.
BINGO!
(Of course, once the motor has warmed up, there is no need to use this BOOST circuit, for the combustion chambers are already hot enough to detonate the injected fuel.)
Have a go at it, as I know that it works!
John.
SOURCE: Hard starting when cold ( engine cranks normally )
see if your engine has a ECT sensor (temp sensor that delivers information to your ECM) they are installed on the intake side of the cylinder head, it usually has 2 cables, have it checked replace if necesary
SOURCE: HARD TO START ENGINE WHEN IS VERY COLD
I read the other two solutions top your problem and I have to say, some people should not give advice, because the advice they are giving is not worth anything. NOW, let me tell you what is wrong with your car. You have a defective IAC (Idle Air Control) value. The IAC value (sometimes called a cold start value) is used as a means to quickly start your car when it is cold outside. Replace the IAC (easy to do) and your problem will be solved..
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