I have a quarter inch recessed six point hex nut attached inside a washer screwed on a bolt. Is there a hollow hex nut tool that can be inserted around the bolt and into the recessed hex nut?

REMOVAL

(1) Remove quarter trim panel.

(2) Remove the bolts attaching the latch to the cab

side panel.

(3) Remove the nuts attaching the frame/hinge to

the B-pillar.

(4) Remove the glass from the cab.
(5) If necessary, remove the latch from the glass.

INSTALLATION

(1) If removed, install the latch to the glass.

(2) Center the window glass at the opening, insert

the hinge studs in the B-pillar holes, and install the

nuts.

(3) Attach the latch to the rear side panel with the

bolts. Tighten the bolts with the latch in the lock

position and pushing rearward on the latch.

(4) Test the vent window for water leaks.
(5) Install quarter trim panel.

INSTALLATION

(1) If removed, install the latch to the glass.

(2) Center the window glass at the opening, insert

the hinge studs in the B-pillar holes, and install the

nuts.

(3) Attach the latch to the rear side panel with the

bolts. Tighten the bolts with the latch in the lock

position and pushing rearward on the latch.

(4) Test the vent window for water leaks.
(5) Install quarter trim panel.

Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

Removal:

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Drain the engine cooling system.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable, Heater hoses from the heater core.
4. Remove the instrument panel as follows:
   1. Disable the air bag system.
   2. Set the parking brake and block the wheels.
   3. Disconnect the parking brake release cable from the parking brake lever.
   4. Unfasten the screws that retain the DLC instrument panel left side sound insulator. Feed the DLC through the hole in the sound insulator.
   5. Unfasten the right side sound insulator panel screws and remove the panel.
   6. Unfasten the screws that attach the instrument panel left side sound insulator to the knee bolster and cowl panel.
   7. Unfasten the nut that attaches the left side sound insulator to the accelerator pedal bracket.
   8. Unplug the remote control door lock receiver module electrical connector.
   9. Remove the door lock receiver module from the left side sound insulator. Remove the left side sound insulator.
   10. Unfasten the screws that attach the instrument panel center sound insulator to the knee bolster, instrument panel, heater assembly and floor duct.
   11. Remove the center sound insulator.
   12. Unfasten the screws that attach the courtesy lamp to the knee bolster.
   13. Unfasten the screws that attach the knee bolster to the instrument panel.
   14. Disconnect the lap cooler duct from the knee bolster.
   15. Unplug the lighter electrical connection and remove the knee bolster.
   16. Unfasten the steering column-to-instrument panel nuts and lower the column.
   17. Unfasten the screws that attach the instrument panel accessory trim plate to the instrument panel.
   18. Remove the trim plate and unplug all necessary electrical connection.
   19. Remove the heater and/or air conditioning control assembly.
   20. Remove the radio and the storage compartment assembly (if equipped).
   21. If necessary, remove the instrument cluster.
   22. Unfasten the left and right instrument panel pivot bolts and the panel lower support bolt.
   23. Unfasten the speaker grilles retaining screws and remove the speaker grilles.
   24. Remove the windshield defroster grille using a flat-bladed prytool. Start at one end of the grille and work your way down the grille.
   25. Unfasten the 4 instrument panel upper support screws.
   26. Tag and unplug all necessary electrical connections.
   27. Remove the instrument panel from the vehicle.
       
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Air inlet assembly, if equipped, Vacuum hoses, Heater assembly studs, from inside the engine compartment, Blower motor resistor, Stud from inside the heater case assembly; the stud is located behind the blower motor resistor, Heater assembly-to-chassis screws, Heater assembly from the vehicle, Access cover screws and cover from the heater assembly, Heater core from the heater case assembly.
   

   Fig. View of the heater case assembly
   
   

   Fig. View of the heater case cover
   
   

   Fig. View of the heater core
   
   

   Fig. Heater core mounting
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   Heater core to the heater case assembly, Access cover to the heater assembly and the cover screws, Heater assembly to the vehicle, Heater assembly-to-chassis screws and torque them to 40 inch lbs. (4.5 Nm), Stud, working from inside the heater case assembly; the stud is located behind the blower motor resistor, Blower motor resistor, Heater assembly studs, working inside the engine compartment, torque them to 17 inch lbs. (1.9 Nm), Vacuum hoses, Air inlet assembly, if equipped
   
2. Install the instrument panel as follows:
   1. Rest the instrument panel on the lower pivot studs.
   2. Attach the electrical connections.
   3. Install but do not tighten the 4 upper instrument panel support screws.
   4. Install the left and right panel pivot bolts. Tighten the bolts to 102 inch lbs. (11.5 Nm).
   5. Install the panel lower support bolt. Tighten the bolt to 102 inch lbs. (11.5 Nm).
   6. Tighten the upper support screws to 17 inch lbs. (1.9 Nm).
   7. Install the windshield defroster grille and the speaker grilles.
   8. Install the radio and storage compartment assembly (if equipped).
   9. If removed, install the instrument cluster.
   10. Install the heater and/or air conditioning control assembly.
   11. Attach the electrical connections to the instrument panel accessory trim plate.
   12. Place the trim plate in position and install its retaining screws. Tighten the screws to 17 inch lbs. (1.9 Nm).
   13. Place the steering column into position and install its retaining nuts. Tighten the nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
   14. Attach the lighter electrical connection and the lap cooler duct to the knee bolster.
   15. Place the knee bolster into position and install its retaining screws. Tighten the Torx® head screws to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm) and the hex head screws to 17 inch lbs. (1.9 Nm).
   16. Place the courtesy lamp in position and install its screws. Tighten the screws to 17 inch lbs. (1.9 Nm).
   17. Place the instrument panel center sound insulator in position. Install the screws that attach the center sound insulator to the knee bolster, instrument panel and the floor duct. Tighten the screws to 17 inch lbs. (1.9 Nm).
   18. Install the screw that attaches the center sound insulator to the heater assembly. Tighten the screw to 13 inch lbs. (1.5 Nm).
   19. Install the remote control door lock receiver module to the instrument panel left side sound insulator.
   20. Attach the door lock receiver electrical connection.
   21. Install the nut that attaches the left side sound insulator to the accelerator pedal bracket. Tighten the nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
   22. Install the screw that attaches the left side sound insulator to cowl panel. Tighten the screw to 13 inch lbs. (1.5 Nm).
   23. Install the screws that attach the left side sound insulator to knee bolster. Tighten the screw to 17 inch lbs. (1.9 Nm).
   24. Feed the DLC through the hole in the sound insulator, place the DLC in position and install its retaining screws. Tighten the screws to 21 inch lbs. (2.4 Nm).
   25. Install the right side sound insulator and tighten the screws
   26. Connect the parking brake release cable to the lever.
   27. Enable the air bag system.
3. Install the heater hoses to the heater core.
4. Refill the cooling system.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
6. Run the engine to normal operating temperatures; then, check the climate control operation and check for leaks.

Hi, the axle has a drain plug at the bottom, removing this plug allows all old fluid to empty, put the plug back in, and tighten. fill back up with 2-3 qts of 75 synthetic weigt oil. Good luck...Coop

Do you have the original jack and related tools I hope? The jack is located in the rear passenger side access panel at the back of your van. The jack and related tools are in a black bag wrapped around the jack and the whole thing is attached to the inside wall. In the bag, you have two tools. One is a wrench with the flip out socket at the end that you use to remove the lug nuts to your wheels. The other tool is a rod. The rod on one end has a hex bolt that fits your lug nut tool and the other end is a flat tip screwdriver. With the rear left gate open, you can look along the top of your bumper surface just under the rubber seal and to left of the gate lock pin by a few inches you will see a hole. This is where the flat tip screwdriver tool is inserted. Insert into the hole and rotate the rod to engage the slotted tip in the hole. With your lug nut wrench, attach it to the hex head end so you can turn it. Turning it counter clockwise while holding into the hole will lower your spare wheel to the ground. You then have to flex the wheel support on the end of the cable sideways to fit through the hub of the wheel to get the spare out. I think this mount is for just the spare and stock hub cap wheels. If you have custom wheels, you will have to carry the flat inside the vehicle to get it to a garage to fix it. To dive off, make sure you turn the crank tool clockwise to recoil your cable so it is not on the ground. The same is true when you Put your spare back. To put it back on, lower the cable, insert the support through the hub of the wheel and ensure it grabs the hub so the wheel does not fall off. Crank the cable clockwise to raise the wheel. It will get hard to turn when the wheel is all the way up. The space saver spare is stored under the vehicle with the air stem pointed down so you can air it up without having to take it off the vehicle. (60PSI)

I hope this is enough detail and that you have all the equipment. Also, Caution, I learned the hard way that the original jack is not very strong. If possible, be on a level surface when using it with no one getting in and out of the vehicle. Mine failed due to being on slight hill with kids getting in and out.

I hope this helps.

The headlight assembly (1993 Grand Caravan) is held in place with three plastic "wing nuts" that rotate on the ball-end (front end) of the adjusting screws. One "adjusting screw" (the one on the bottom, inboard side) is not for adjusting, just for mounting. The other two adjusting screws take a torx T15 in the front end of the screw.
Removing the headlight assembly is somewhat of a trick - it seems like it takes a special tool to reach the "wing nut" and turm it 1/4 turn (90 degrees) CLOCKWISE (so the "wings" are vertical). When all three of these mounting "wing nuts" have the wings vertical, the headlight assembly just pulls forward and off these mounting nuts. Place the new assembly back over the "nuts", turn the 3 "wing nuts" another quarter turn, and the new unit is mounted. Probably not even a need to re-adjust the headlights, but you should check.
The PROBLEM, is that it appears to take a special tool to reach and turn these wing nuts without breaking them (yes, the old ones get brittle). I tried a socket (did not work), and then long needle-nose pliers (broke one wing nut), then a 1/2" open-end wrench (which at least worked). However, pushing the new assembly back over the wing nuts, I broke another wing nut. So, I broke 2 of the 6, and one was broken when I started.
Now I need to find replacements for these "wing nuts" ... any ideas where to get them?
Of course I can use some washers, some nuts to fit the fine-threaded adjustment screw, and some sort of bushing (maybe cut a short piece of rubber tubing to fit over the adjustment screw). Place double nuts (second nut to lock the first in place) and a washer, then the bushing onto the adjusting screw, then the headlamp assembly onto the bushing, then add another washer, and two more nuts (not too tight) to lock it onto the adjusting screw (which must still be free to rotate). Repeat for each of the 6 mounting points. I have not tried this yet, but ... it should work.

Fabricate a tool to turn the "wing nuts" using a piece of 3/8 inch ID tubing which you file or cut 1/8 inch by 1/8 inch notches on each side of a diameter line.

Instructions
Things You'll Need: · Set of quarter-inch drive sockets Quarter-inch drive ratchet Set of half-inch drive sockets Half-inch drive air gun Set of metric wrenches Special tools for holding camshaft timing #2065-A and injection pump #2064

Step 1

Remove the accessory drive belts and the accessory drive belt tensioner. Remove the upper timing belt cover and the valve cover. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the No.1 cylinder is atop, dead center, with the flywheel timing marks aligned.

Step 2

Install the special tool setting bar (#2065-A) on the rear of the camshaft. If it does not fit, turn the crankshaft once more and line up the timing marks again in the hole of the transmission housing.

Step 3

Insert locking pin #2064 into the injection pump to hold it in position. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolts, the crankshaft pulley and the lower timing belt cover. Loosen the tensioner pulley nut and allow the tensioner to move away from the belt. Loosely tighten the nut to hold the tensioner out of the way. Remove the top guide pulley and the timing belt.

Step 4

Make sure that the timing mark on the flywheel is lined up and that the camshaft setting bar and injection locking pin are in place. Loosen the camshaft bolt a half turn and tap the sprocket with a soft mallet to loosen it off its taper. The sprocket should move freely. Install the top guide pulley and torque to 18 foot pounds of torque.

Step 5

Install the new timing belt, starting on the right side and working counterclockwise. Keep the tension on the right nontensioned side. Loosen the tensioner pulley nut. Using the two-pin wrench, turn the tensioner pulley clockwise until the notch and raised mark are aligned. Torque the tensioner pulley nut to 15 foot pounds of torque. Make sure the flywheel timing mark is still aligned.

Step 6

Torque the camshaft bolt to 33 foot pounds of torque. Remove the locking pin from the injection pump and remove the camshaft setting bar. Turn the crankshaft two turns and check the alignment on the flywheel. Make sure that the setting bar can be inserted easily and that the injection pump locking pin can be inserted. Install all components in reverse order of removal and torque the crankshaft bolt to 18 foot pounds of torque.

My Recommendation - Pay an authorized VW mechanic $500 to replace the timing belt water pump an tensioner, and sleep better knowing that the job was done right. Just too many places for a novice car mechanic to screw up. jQuery('.article ol .image').each(function(i,e){ var $this = jQuery(this); $this.find('img').error(function(){ jQuery(this).remove(); $this.remove(); }); });

Headlamps -- remove two long bolts with 7 mm or 8 mm hex heads for each headlamp assembly. These bolts are located in the horizontal body panel above and either side of the headlamp assembly. Headlamp can then be pulled forward far enough to remove the lamps from the assembly (twist about a quarter turn).

Taillamps -- inside the trunk, you may have to move the trunk liner aside, but there are three plastic wing nuts holding each taillight assembly in place. After removing these wing nuts, the assembly can be removed.

More than likely the door handle assembly is broken. The chrome handle has a pin running through it and through 2 "ears" of a plastic part that creats a pivit point for the handle. One of the plastic ears (probably the bottom one) has broken loose. Glueing it will not hold long if at all. The accepted repair is to replace the handle assembly which consists of a Plastic mounting block of which the "ears" are part, a chrome handle, and a pivot pin. You can buy this assembly used on Ebay at this time (August 2010) for between fifty and seventy dollars including shipping, but you are buying a seven to twelve year old part out of a junked car with the same inherrent weakness as your broken one had. How long the part will last is anyone's guess. My guess is "not long". You can buy a new one that will probably last as long as the original one did, or you can repair the part by fabricating a metal replacement "ear" and attaching it to the Plastic part with very small screws or nuts and bolts as I did. To perform either repair you must remove the inside door panel. In the plastic handle recess there is a small circular plug that can be removed with a thin pointed tool. It reveals a phillips screw that must be removed. Remove the plastic recess part. There is another long screw on the underside of the armrest/handle. With these removed there a number of male to female plastic plugs that can be seperated with a dedicated tool or a flat tool like a common screw driver. Insert tool between the door trim panel and the door at each plug and pry the panel from the door a half inch or so. With all the plugs seperated wiggle and carefully lift the panel over the verticle locking stud because there are 3 wires that must be un plugged. After unpluging the wires, put the panel aside in a safe place. The handle assembly is removed by sliding it toward the front of the car and then removing the cable. Repair or replace the assembly and reassemble in reverse order. Good luck.

4.9L SFI
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Fan Clutch Holding Tool T84T-6312-C Fan Clutch Nut Wrench T93T-6312-B
Removal

1. CAUTION: The large clutch assembly nut has a right-hand thread and must be rotated counterclockwise to remove it.
   Remove the fan clutch (8A616) from the water pump (8501) by turning the large nut, which is part of the fan clutch, using Fan Clutch Holding Tool T84T-6312-C and Fan Clutch Nut Wrench T93T-6312-B.
   

1. Remove two screws retaining fan shroud.
   

1. Remove the fan blade (8600), fan clutch and shroud.
   

1. If the fan blade and fan clutch have to be separated, remove the remaining bolts attaching the fan blade to the fan clutch
   

5.0L, 5.8L and 7.5L Engines
Removal

1. Remove screws retaining fan shroud (8146) to radiator (8005).
   

1. Remove four screws retaining clutch on water pump hub.
   

1. Pull fan clutch and fan blade off water pump pilot and remove fan clutch, fan blade and shroud from vehicle.
   

1. Remove four screws and separate fan clutch from fan blade.
   

Item Part Number Description 1 8509 Water Pump Pulley 2 57632-S Screw and Washer Assembly, 5/16-18 x .62 Hex 3 8600 Fan Blade (5.0 and 5.8L) 4 8600 Fan Blade (7.5L) 5 8A616 Fan Clutch 6 380288-S2 Screw and Washer Assembly, 5/16-24 x .88 Hex A — 16-24 Nm (12-18 Lb-Ft)

Rear DRUM instructions are first If you would Like Pictures and all They Must Be Emailed as TOO LARGE For FixYa's Format im at aol.com
Just use my Knickname@ and let me know where to send.

1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assembly.
2. Remove brake drum. If brake drum cannot be removed easily, insert a suitable screwdriver through hole in backing plate, then push adjuster lever away from adjuster and back of adjustment tension.
3. Remove tension spring, using a suitable tool, then remove rear shoe hold-down spring and pin. Remove rear brake shoe and anchor spring, Fig. 7.
   1. On Land Cruiser models, remove front hold-down spring using a suitable tool, then disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake bellcrank, Fig. 7.
   2. On Pickup, 4Runner, 4WD T100 and 4WD Tacoma models, remove front shoe hold-down spring and pin, using a suitable tool, then disconnect No. 1 parking brake cable from No. 3 parking brake bellcrank.
   3. On 2WD T100 models, proceed as follows:
   1. Remove E-ring, then automatic adjusting lever and C-washer, then parking brake lever. Disconnect brake line from wheel cylinder using a suitable container to catch fluid.
   2. Remove wheel cylinder. Remove following parts from wheel cylinder: two boots, two pistons, two pistons cups and spring.
   1. On models except 2WD T100, remove front brake with strut, then disconnect parking brake cable from front shoe. Remove parking brake cable No. 2.
   2. Remove adjusting lever spring, then the adjuster from front shoe.
   Inspection
   
   1. Measure brake drum inside diameter. Inside diameter should be 11.61 inches,
      1. Measure brake shoe lining thickness, Fig. 3. Minimum thickness should be .04 inch on models except on T100 models and .039 inch on T100 models.
      2. Inspect brake lining and drum for proper contact and replace drum or shoes as necessary.
      3. Inspect wheel cylinder for corrosion or damage.
      4. Inspect backing plate for wear or damage.
      5. Inspect bellcrank components for bending, wear or damage.
      6. Apply a suitable lubricant to backing plate contact areas.
      Installation
      
      1. On 2WD T100 models, proceed as follows:
      1. Apply lithium soap base glycol grease to piston cups, pistons and boots.
      2. Assemble and install wheel cylinder.
      3. Connect brake line to cylinder.
      1. Apply high temperature grease to following parts:
      1. Backing plate and brake shoe contact points.
      2. Anchor plate and brake shoe contact points.
      3. Adjusting bolt.
      4. Adjuster and brake shoe contact points.
      1. Apply a suitable lubricant to adjuster bolt threads and end.
      2. Assemble adjuster to lever, then install adjuster lever spring.
      3. On Land Cruiser models, install parking brake lever cable to parking brake shoe, then attach cable to bellcrank.
      4. On Pickup, 4Runner, 4WD T100 and 4WD Tacoma models, install No. 1 parking brake cable to parking brake lever shoe, then attach the other side of cable to No. 3 bellcrank.
      5. Position front shoe in place with end of shoe inserted into piston, then install shoe hold-down spring and pin using a suitable tool.
      6. Assemble anchor spring to front and rear shoe, then install rear shoe with end inserted in piston.
      7. Install rear shoe hold-down spring and pin, then the tension spring.
      8. If necessary, adjust bellcrank as follows:
      1. Lightly pull bellcrank in direction "A", Fig. 8, until there is no slack in part "B".
         1. Rotate adjusting bolt until dimension "C" is .016-.031 inch.
         2. Lock adjusting bolt with locknut, when connect parking brake cable to bellcrank.
         3. Install tension spring.
         1. Ensure proper parking brake travel.
         2. Pull adjusting lever cable upward, then release and ensure adjusting bolt rotates. If bolt does not rotate, check for improper installation of rear brakes.
         3. Adjust strut to shortest possible length, then install drum.
         4. Pull parking brake lever fully upward. Repeat process several times.
            1. Remove drum, then check for proper clearance, Fig. 4. Clearance should be .024 inch. If clearance is not as specified, check parking brake system.
            2. Install brake drum, then bleed and refill brake system.
            3. Install wheel and tire assembly, then lower vehicle.

FRONT ROTORS & PADS

1. Remove caliper.
2. Remove cap and snap ring, Fig. 10, then remove cone washers with tapered punch.
3. Insert suitable length bolts into flange bolt holes, then tighten bolts evenly and remove flanges.
4. Remove free wheel hub cover and snap ring, then remove nut, spring washer and cone washer with suitable tapered punch.
5. Remove free wheel hub body and gasket.
6. Remove locknut, lock washer and adjusting nut.
7. Remove axle hub and brake disc as an assembly.
8. Remove oil seal and inner bearing from hub.
9. Reverse procedure to install. Torque adjusting nut to 43 ft. lbs., then back off nut. Torque nut to 18 ft. lbs. Using spring scale attached to hub bolt, check that preload is 1.4-12.6. Install lockwasher and locknut, if equipped. Torque locknut to 35 ft. lbs., and recheck preload. Secure lockwasher by bending one tab inward and one tab outward.

1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove tire and wheel assembly.
2. Remove clip and hole pins, Fig. 9.
3. Remove anti-rattle spring and shim(s) if equipped, then remove brake pads.
4. Lubricate caliper housing with suitable brake grease at pad contact points.
5. Reverse procedure to install.