Question about 2003 Toyota Camry

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I have the same exact problem and 2003 4cyl.and same year car....

When i was changing the coolant, first i drained the radiator,then i was having trouble finding the engine block drain then i had to drive the car with water in the radiator instead of the old coolant which was muddy looking then when i drove it was cool, no overheating on the gauge, got home drained what was in the radiator then refilled the radiator. the following day i found the drain plug to the engine block so decided to drain the radiator but could'nt find a 10mm socket to drain the block, then i again filled up the radiator with water to go and buy a socket then while driving i noticed this time that gauge was warming up and climbing towards the red zone of the gauge and would stop to the side and rest the engine then went to the store to buy the socket. Next i got home drained the radiator then drained the engine coolant block. Closed the drainplugs on both, refilled the radiator,while running the heater on full blast (but to my recollection dont remember starting the engine while doing so because afraid it would over-heat without any coolant in the system) so after refilling the rad. i drove the car around to test-drive. the following day i drove again and checked the engine and i felt pretty hot, check the hoses and the lower radiator hose felt fat, then i bought a new thermostat went through the same process in installing.... Next i still felt the fans werent cutting on and disconnected the ECT , then the fans were turning on , so i think that something is wrong with the ECT so now i am waiting to receive the part i just ordered.. i hope that fixes the cooling problem i have with the fans not turning on because i do not want to stress the engine from overheating.
Can someone help me out there i would gladly appreciate it very much
-=D

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You may have had an air pocket in the system. What I would when you get part,is to run at idle with radiator cap off and let warm up from cold start. With heater setting on so as coolant can flow through that part of system. Of course keep eye on temp as it warms up. This can take a while as fans won't come on till thermostat is opening. check hoses as it warms. when hoses get "hot to touch" both upper and lower , put cap on and make sure overflow bottle is filled to its level.If it all seems to be going well then i would let fans cycle for 2 may be 3 time before test drive.

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

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Draining and Filling Cooling System

Draining Procedure

Important: Do NOT add any engine coolant supplement sealant pellets to the cooling system. Drain and refill the engine cooling system every 5 years or 240,000 km, (150,000 mi) , whichever occurs first.

  1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
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Caution: Refer to Radiator Cap Removal Caution in Service Precautions.

  1. Remove the radiator cap when the engine is cool:
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  1. Place a drain pan under the radiator drain valve in order to collect all of the used coolant.
  2. Open the radiator drain valve located at the bottom of the radiator tank. If only partial cooling system draining is required, drain enough coolant to perform the procedure.
  3. Open the air bleed valve on the thermostat housing 2 full turns
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    2. Place a drain pan under the engine block drains in order to collect the used coolant.Important: Allow the coolant to drain completely.

      1. Remove both of the engine block drains.
        • The front left engine block drain is located between the starter motor and the engine oil filter.
        • The rear right engine block drain is located near the crankshaft position sensor.
      Filling Procedure
      Reinstall the engine block drains
    3. Close the radiator drain valve,
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      2. Slowly add a 50/50 mixture of GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL or HAVOLINE DEX-COOL and clean, drinkable water to the radiator until the coolant level is at the base of the radiator fill neck.
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