When changing gears on my 320d 2001 its sticky but when you stop and switch the car off, put it in neutral release the clutch you can change gears smoothly as you like.What's must I do

If there are no leaks, it sounds like master cylinder is faulty (fluid is by passing seals) because it's a new cylinder It doesn't mean it's not faulty

They do that so you remember to put it in gear after turning it off.

From the way you've described it your gear stick linkages maybe on there way out. When changing gear does the car resist getting into gear?

If it's more of a crunching sound then I would try double de clutching, to do this you need to:
change gear as usual but instead of holding down the clutch throughout the gear change hold it down to take the vehicle into neutral then release the clutch then push the clutch down again and change into desired gear.
To change down it's basically the same principal but you push down the clutch to put the vehicle into neutral then push the throttle down just to pitch revs then release the throttle and push the clutch down to change into your desired gear, if it won't go in to gear easily then rather the throttle until it does.

You can go onto youtube and search for double de clutching and I'm sure some results will come up

hope this helps!

Maybe your clutch slave cylinder is bad.

clutch, and check clutch cable linkage. Make sure there ain't no or very little slack in the clutch cable. It dies because the clutch is still engaged with the flywheel. Car won't move in any gear because the clutch prolly needs to be changed.

If I've understood your problem correctly.....when changing from 1st gear into second the box is giving a metal on metal crunching sound?

• This would be the syncromesh ring which is not equalizing the speed correctly.
• The problem usually happens when there is wear on the same part.
• Check to make sure that the correct transmission fluid has been used in the box.
• To alleviate the problem and delay the time when it will require attention, use the double de- clutch method of changing gears, especially when the transmission is cold.
• The double de-clutch is carried out in the following way.

1. When in gear and changing from 1st gear to 2nd, change into neutral and release the clutch and then depress again before selecting 2nd gear....It is not required to rev the engine in the neutral position when changing up....
2. When changing down rev the engine when the shift lever is in neutral for each change.

You'll soon get the hang of it and stop the crunching sound, protecting the box at the same time....
Regards Johngee

On the side of the transmission where the gear shifter attaches is a multi-function switch that controls the ignition switch solenoid (which won't let you take out your key till it's in neutral), the reverse lights and the shifer release solenoid (which won't let you put it in gear until you hit the brakes. It is probably bad. It doesn't cost a lot and it referred to as the Neutral Safety switch.Since it's under the car it takes a lot of abuse and they sometimes just go bad. Make sure when you put on the new one that it's in the same general position as the old one so you won't have sticky shifter syndrome or sticky key syndrome. Good luck.

sounds more like the IAC, Idle air control valve.. they can be cleaned with carb and choke cleaner gently...

remove the gearbox to replace the clutch.this will teach you not to hold it on hills on the clutch but to put handbrake on and neutral.also the same at traffic lights and no boy racer flying starts where accelerator is floored and clutch ridden slowly to get most power to wheels,still its not difficult to change and clutches not that expensive if you do it yourself,garage price around 800 euros

hi sounds like the clutchs release bearing when you press the pedal noise the noise appeared but when in neutral noise is not there this is second one tonight with simular problems for this year and model yates210456