My son hit a tree with my 2009 rhino 700 now the right front tire is staying to the right when the wheel is straight. is the ear on the knuckle assy so post to look the same on both sides of the atv ?

Could be same damaged to front end,

It's more than likely the ujoint in the front by the knuckle...You can jack your truck up and turn the wheel to the side it is squeaking the most. Turn the tire by hand and see what it feels like.If your u joint is bad it will bind when you spin your tire.

Loosen all nuts and use some penetrating oil if tough. Sometimes some heat on the nuts will allow them to budge. If you mean getting the tie rod out of the steering knuckle, then use a good 3 lbs hammer and hit the knuckle where the tie rod is wedged into. dont go crazy, but a good solid even hit until it comes loose. The vibrations from hitting will allow the tie rod to pop out like nothing. may take a few hits depending how hard and how long the part has been in there. Hit the knuckle inline the the main part of knuckle to prevent breaking off the ear. do not hit 90 degrees of how the knuckle sits, the ear may break if you go too hard.

Well, the camber which is the vertical angle of the tires or wheels as the car is viewed directly from the front, is adjustable on these cars' struts.

So, if the alignment technician performs a front wheel or even a 4 wheel alignment (which is better), then the front angles should be adjusted so that tire wear doesn't occur on the left or right side of the tire as viewed from the front.

I would continue to rotate tires every 5,000 mi. or so, and have the alignment checked at a place like Sears or your local tire shop to ensure that your alignment is good, and not out of specifications.

okay i assume the rotor is off,remove the bolts out the back, take a hammer and beat the front of the hub the top then bottom then the sides to free,hit so that hub pull out,you will be hitting the back side the hub where the wheel would sit,if that doesnt work then use a chisel to break free, stick it where the hub meet spindle,ITs just frozen beat it.

The vehicle will need to raised on the left (drivers) side and supported. Remove the tire, then the brake caliper assy. Remove the rotor, then remove the axle nut located in the center of the hub assy. Remove the hub/bearing retaining bolts, and then the hub assy. Some times it is corroded into the steering knuckle assy. and will not seem to come out. If this happens, install the axle nut, and wearing safety glasses, pound onto the hub flange from the inside to the outside, until it comes out of the knuckle assy. Then remove the hub assy. Clean the knuckle hole where the bearing with 120 grit sand paper, so the hub/bearing assy will go into the knuckle without damage. Torque the axle nut to specs. Clean the inside of the rotor, where the hub meets it, so it sits flat against the new hub. Install the rotor, caliper assy. Install the wheel and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft pounds. Road test about 5 miles and recheck the lug nuts.

Removal: Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel. Remove caliper assembly. DO NOT allow caliper to hang from brake hose. Always support caliper by wiring it to frame. Remove rotor.
Loosen and remove ABS speed sensor mounting screw. Carefully remove sensor head from steering knuckle. If sensor head is seized due to corrosion, use hammer and brass punch to tap sensor. Tap edge of sensor ear, rocking sensor from side to side until it is free. DO NOT use pliers on sensor head.
Remove axle shaft nut. Remove 3 bolts securing hub assembly to steering knuckle. Pull hub straight back from knuckle. If hub is corroded, pry between hub flange and knuckle
Fully remove knuckle pinch bolt. Insert pry bar between lower control arm and steering knuckle. Push down on pry bar to separate ball joint stud from steering knuckle. Ensure ball joint dust boot is not damaged during removal. Loosen and remove strut-to-knuckle nuts. Bolts are serrated where installed into knuckle. DO NOT turn bolts in steering knuckle. Use soft-face hammer to drive bolts out of knuckle. Remove knuckle from vehicle.

Installation: To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten all nuts and bolts to specification. DO NOT fully tighten axle nut until vehicle is on ground. Ensure hub mounting surfaces are clean and free of foreign material. Coat speed sensor with high temperature grease before installing onto knuckle.

They are not too bad if the bearing/hub assy is not frozen into the aluminum steering knuckle.They are held in with 3 13mm bolts from the back side.Remove the front wheel on the side in question,remove the brake caliper,brake bridge,pads,remove the axle nut 36mm(big socket required here)once you have all this removed remove the 3 13mm bolts tha retain the hub/bearing to the steering knuckle by hammering downward on the hub,don't worry if you tear it up come with new one.If you dont see it coming apart after 10-15 blows with a large hammer it maybe siezed up.Then you will need to hit alot hard or heat the knuckle.But be carefull the knuckle is aluminum.hope this helps

the hub is seized into stering knuckle..you can try putting a socket or a small 1/2" drive extension between 1 ear of front axle shaft and axle housing and turning wheels all the way to whatever side you have socket in..this will push hub out of knuckle..try doing this both ways with engine running..keep axle nut on shaft

i just did a 2002 2500 4x4 with a dana straight axle and had no problem getting on the bolts with a 9/16 12 point socket on a 6 inch extension. If you do not use an extension the head of the ratchet will hit the yoke of the axle shaft.