Question about 1979 Pontiac Firebird

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My 1980 TA has no dash lights

I have replaced the light switch. I have replaced the entire dash gauges. I have tried a new wiring harness. I have replace all bulbs. But still no dash lights. It seems to me that this is part of an entire circuit that is somehow not complete. This car has had an engine change and many mods including oil press. and temp gauge along with an after market tach. I am wondering if the other guages had to be added because someone could not figure out where to reconnect broken circuits?

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Check all your fuse links(if you haven't allready),then check to see if your aftermarket stereo and amp is hooked up properly.hope this helps

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

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How can i fix this problem with my dash lights and gauges and tail lights wont work , all other lights work fine


Replace the switch on the steering Colum it has gone bad not a big deal to change.

Aug 16, 2015 | 1999 Dodge Intrepid

Tip

ALARM, CRUISE CONTROL, and STEREO Wiring Color Codes for 1980 - 1982 Honda Civic...


ALARM, CRUISE CONTROL, and STEREO Wiring Color Codes for 1980 - 1982 Honda Civic



This FixYa Tip is for the purpose of installing an Alarm, Remote Starter, Cruise Control, and / or Car Stereo into the vehicle listed in the subject line.

The wires listed are the ones you will need to successfully complete the task.

Some vehicles require additional relays and / or modules to bypass factory security. If they are required - it will be in the NOTES section below the wiring colors.

The following FixYa TIP is good for all Honda Civics for the following production years:

1980
1981
1982




STEREO WIRING COLOR CHART:

Constant Power: White/Blue
Switched Power: Yellow/Red
Ground: To Chassis Metal
Illumination: N/A
Dimmer: N/A
Antenna: Drivers Side Pillar


Left Front (+): Red/Green
Left Front (-): Brown
Right Front (+): Blue/Green
Right Front (-): Gray

Left Rear (+): Red/Yellow
Left Rear (-): Brown
Right Rear (+): Blue/Yellow
Right Rear (-): Gray/White


NOTES: - none -

Additional Accessories:

Metra Brand Dash Kit: n/a
Metra Brand Wiring Harness: 70-1388
Metra Brand Antenna Adapter: n/a








ALARM / REMOTE START WIRING CHART:

Constant 12V+: White - Ignition Switch Harness
Starter: Black/White - Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition: Black/Yellow - Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory: Yellow - Ignition Switch Harness
Tach: Blue - Coil
Brake Switch: Green/White - Brake Switch
Trunk Pin: Green/Black - (-) Hatch Pin Switch
Parking Lights: Red/Black - (+) Light Switch
Hood Pin: n/a
Factory Disarm: n/a
Door Trigger: Green/Black - (-) Pin Switch
Door Lock: Green/White - (-) Driver's Kick Panel
Door Unlock: Green/Orange - (-) Driver's Kick Panel


NOTES: - none -






CRUISE CONTROL:

Constant 12V+: White - Ignition Switch Harness or Use Hot Side of Brake
Switched 12V+: Black/Yellow - Ignition Switch Harness
Ground: Use Chassis Near Cruise Control Module
Hot Side of Brake: n/a - Brake Switch
Cold Side of Brake: Green/White - Brake Switch
Tach: Blue - Coil
VSS Wire : n/a




NOTES: 4000PPM

Vehicles with Manual Transmission require Clutch Switch.
Some vehicles may require a speed signal generator and/or other parts/adapters not listed above.
Rostra® Cruise Control module switch settings may differ if you use a speed signal generator or magnets and a pick up coil.


Thanks for using FixYa!! Please see my other tips on GPS, Car Audio, Large Appliances, and more.

on Apr 01, 2010 | Honda Civic Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Gauge cluster


Hi, Sorry to tell you but whats happened is you have failed to keep all the wiring & where the dash is concerned the printed circuit has been disturbed which is the problem. Find an electrical vehicle technician to remove the dash & sort it all out you will no doubt need to replace certain printed circuit technician to sort the problem out. Please leave me feed back Malcolm Campbell, crossflowspeed@hotmail.co.uk Thanks.

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2007 chevy impala brake light and left turn signal not working


Fast flashing dash signals mean there is a bulb issue-DEFINATELY!

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Dash lights do not work 2000 ford exploier


All go out at once, first check fuses,then dimmer switch for dash lights, finally headlight switch. To check dimmer switch, pull connection off back, on harness with test light and headlight switch activated, 1 of the leads should have power, if so, use ohm meter on dimmer to make sure it has reading between 0 and some value, if no value, open, dimmer is bad, if there wasn't power then check headlight switch, there should be heavier gauge wire that powers switch and 1 for output to hi/lo switch, smaller gauge wires for tail lamps, dash lights, license plate lamps, parking lights. The color wires from dimmer would correspond to the same colored wires on headlamp switch, probe that connection on headlamp switch with switch engaged and see if you have power, if not replace switch, if so, check wire from switch to dimmer.Now if the lights slowly went from bright one day, to less bright some other day, to not working, then the bulbs are bad... good luck...

May 14, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bought a used 1998 chevy suburban yesterday and found that the reason the dome lights cig lighters etc and the power windows dont work is because someone put aftermarket electronics in and did a shoddy job...


I would try to repair the wiring that is damaged with similar gauge wire, solder and use heat shirk tubing. Trying to replace the entire harness would be rather involved. I would remove all the aftermarket electronics.

Oct 18, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

The gauges stop working sometimes. ie.


This sounds like your cluster. This 2 happened to my 2005 chevy cavalier. But my temp and oil pressures never stopped working. I would get a mechanic to find out exactly if it is your cluster. A bad ground or a short could possibly cause this problem 2.
This is quite an expensive part. But if you must know how to do it yourself then here it goes.
First you need to order the cluster so that you can replace it.
Then once recieved you have to remove the entire dash.
Once the dash is removed you can access the cluster. It is held on by a few bolts and a few wireing harnesses. Nothing major.
Replace it, put the wires back together and assemble the dash. Fairly simple once you can get to it.

To remove the dash I made a post earlier. Here is a cut and paste.

Clarification of the would be greatly appreciated. However the entire dash is held on with about 10-15 screws.
Open both doors and pop off the platic covers normally hiden when the doors are closed. Remove the screws from both sides here.
Then open the glove box. There are 2 screws that hold on a metal bracket, remove them.
On the top-middle of the dash there is a vent to defrost your windshield.One screw holds it on, remove it (phillips I believe).Then remove the screws under the vent so that the dash can be completly removed.
The top part of the dash a 5" strip closest the to windshield will have to be removed frist. By simply pulling it up from the sides.
The entire dash can then be removed fairly easy by pulling it apart from the housing for the odometer and across the entire dash.
The housing that is around your odometer can then be removed by simply removing a few screws across the top and under the radio. You will have to disconnect the wireing harness for the light adjuster left of the blinker on the dash. to remove this part. (I had a little trouble getting this out so I had to take apart the plastic housing for the ignition. 3 bolts slightly bigger then the ones on the dash under neath.)


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try changing the headlight switch,I had a similar problem only mine happened after I accidentaly short out when I was replacing the horn pad and for some reason when I replaced the headlight switch the problem went away.

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HELP! Problems on my 1997 Grand Caravan P1698, P0138, P0140


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