Identical to the problem mentioned by cathynelson2 posted Apr26
The car dies, at some point, more often on a day where the temperature is warmer, or there has been on the increase from the previous norm -which could be coincidence. I wait a few minutes and it will usually start. Or a few more minutes. Replaced the fuel filter, problem did not go away. I am willing to do the fuel pump, but I am wondering, before I get into a very expensive, and/or or a very extensive mechanicing proposition; was there a chance that when the mechanics did the wonderful thing making her car run again -in which process they undertook the major procedure of replaced the pump, which probably involved removing the fuel tank to provide access: is it possible that they also, as a matter strictly routine, and just because of principal of being thourough -that they also9 replaced some other parts, which added up to about 30 dollars and twenty minutes of labor -and could have in fact been the real source of the problem. Im' wondering if this oulcd be the case especially since, I am hesitant about this big expenditure.
Re: Identical to the problem mentioned by cathynelson2...
I am assuming by car dies that you mean that the engine will not turn over when you turn the key. I am assuming that the battery post and positve battery terminals wires are clean. If it is a 4 cylinder volvo engine with a rex ignition system, reach behind the engine on the passenger side. There is a wire that runs to the transmission from the firewall. This wire should not have any breaks or exposed areas. It causes a no start condition. Volvo part number is 271949. The run about $60.
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Re: Identical to the problem mentioned by cathynelson2...
Is the check engine light on? If it is then take it to an autoparts store and have them use a scan tool to retrieve the fault code(s) from the computer. Most parts stores offer this service free of charge. (and they have no hidden agenda, like repairs that you don't need). I would try to narrow down the problem before I spent a large amount of money. It could be something as easy as replacing a faulty gas cap on the car. Get the codes read, and get a more accurate fix on what the problem might be. Sure hope this helped and I feel your pain! lol Good luck on a resolution to your problem.
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I think I may be able to help.
Screwed into the engine block are 2 temperature sensors, which may actually be identical parts, even though they may have a different part number in the parts book.
The function of each is different.
One of them turns on the electric fan to cool the radiator when it is overheating,.
The other one tells the computer what the engine temperature is and adjusts the fuel mixture.
When the "computer" sensor goes bad, the symptoms are identical to yours.
God bless your efforts.
That is typical for most cars. The front lower (foot area) vents allow cold air to come in just before the heater kicks in (heat value opens). If this just started, may be wait for a warm / hot day and see it continues. Sometimes people forget as this typically happen only on colder days. I wouldn't worry about it. To make it stop, turn off the heater - A/C and wait for the car to warm up before turning on the heater. The car is warm once the engine temp gauge starts to move up / show warmer. In most typical cars it takes about 5 to 7 minutes running get the engine temp up to a point where the heater will blow warmer air. If you have more details / concerns - post them, the more you include (car make, model & year, when did the problem start, anything make it worse or better, influencing conditions e.g. rain, cold, hot, dry, etc the better).
stalls, i can list the 50 ways to stall any engine.but pass.
1: ever tune it up this decade? or the 60k mile service points?
the first tests is, can you save the stall , with a fast right foot.
2: old gas? is car a daily drive or old winter car, took out of moth balls?
3: if car is tuned. and fresh fuel, what is day starting outdoor temperature, 70F or -39F?
not posting country or better latitude. makes all posts near useless
the world is a big place.
This car has EFI, and ALL EFI , love to start cold, it is it's FORTE'
brilliantly designed fuel tables in the ECU.
so if it has good fuel, it must start, or there are engine problems.
(IAC not giving air, injectors leaking, flooding, too lean)
there are simple test to do after a tune up , to find each reason.
try new spark plugs.... gapped to Jeep spec.
May be in the radio installation. I hate pointing fingers at the last guy who worked on stuff, but they could have hit a blend door.
When car is warmed up, turn heat on vent and like 3/4 power for fan. Turn temp knob from hot to cold. You are looking for a temperature change. Now, turn on a/c to vent. Wait for it to blow cold. Turn temp knob to hot. Looking for air to be warmer that it was. POST RESULTS
This sound usually means a dead battery. If not, check the wiring to and from the starter for a loose connection.
The most likely problem is that your battery is dying. If your car is clicking and not starting then I am assuming that your are jumping it to get it started. Then your alternator does it's job and charges the battery. In warmer weather and the heat of the engine, the battery holds a charge much better. This could be why you do not have issues in the later parts of the day. Then, over night... when the temperature drops the battery gets cold and dies by morning.
Take your car to an AutoZone or another Auto Parts Store and have them
test the battery. If the battery tests good, then we go the wiring
problem route. There could be a lose or bare wire that is getting a bad
ground in the morning with condensation. After the car heats up this
may not be an issue which is why you are not having problems in the
My personal recommendation is to have the battery tested first thing. It is quick and easy. This could tell you that a fairly inexpensive fix could handle your car woes.
Post back and let me know if you have any more questions or need any more help.
check engine coolant temperature when it gets warmer, or at operating temperature, and verify that the temperature gauge is showing warmed up to operating temperature. If the coolant temperature sensor tells the computer the engine is cold it will over fuel and miss and the engine will die. When cooled down it will run fine until it warms up. Also could be coil if it starts missing after warmed up.
Maybe bad Power Stage/Inquiry:driving down the highway at @ 60mph with 1/4 tank of gas in 100 degree temp inwell kept 84 760 Turbo; car just dies, engine turns over but will notstart] [Response:] Well, when my '84 760 Turbo died for no apparentreason as you describe, it was in the freezing dark, going over Donner Pass.Everything on the car worked except no spark and the engine wouldn't run. It turned out to be the ignition module, which is mounted on the inner driver'sside fender well, above the battery, close to where someone else mentioned theballast resistor was located. It's easy to get to and replace. Ifthat turns out to be the culprit, shop around before buying the new part. Volvo dealers charge several hundred $$$ for this thing, but I found one froman independent parts distributor for about $90 - the identical part madeby BOSCH with the same part number on it.