1997 Pontiac Grand Am Front right brake caliper not working right
I changed the front brake pads like I always have done. Never had to bleed the brakes much. But with this the front right brake is not catching and the brake pedal feels really soft and spongy. I have tried to manually bleed the brakes, I have used a jar with a line, I have used a hand held vacume pump and I still can not get the brakes to right. I know there is air inside because the pedal feels so soft. The pads on the front right were the worse, it was actually metal on metal. I can't figure it out.
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Re: 1997 Pontiac Grand Am Front right brake caliper not...
Check the brake hoses. The rubber hoses that come from the hard line, (Metal), to the caliper. If these are the original ones that came with the vehicle, they are overdue to be changed out.
Do they have any weather cracking on the outside? No? That's okay as they break down on the inside, and sometimes this isn't apparent from the outside.
The rubber brake line is a composite. A sheath on the inside, then a steel braided hose, then another sheath on the outside. The sheath on the inside breaks down, and a piece of the rubber compound blocks the hose opening, when you step on the brake pedal.
The brake line can also swell up a little, as you step on the brakes, causing that spongy feel.
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u pushed pedal down to far when bleeding, now u have a bad seal at master cylinder.the pushrod overextended. did u deplete brake before changing caliper and pads ? anti lock vehicles have to be depleted of all pressure before beginning work. have u bled all brakes? air could have been pushed to rear.
When you changed the pads did you notice if one side was worn more than the other? The most common cause of pulling when you apply the brakes is a seized caliper. It won't work and the other does all the braking. Your left caliper is likely seized and needs to be replaced. Hope this helps.
You may not have done anything wrong. You won't have any pressure the first couple of times that you press the brake pedal. Try pumping the brakes a few times. When you change the pads you have to open the caliper all the way up to get the caliper back on. When you press the brake the pads won't go all the way to the caliper on the first couple of times you press the brake. But once you pump the pedal, it should build up pressure. If not you will have to bleed the brakes.
This may sound dum but its been done a few times and is a simple mistake , the bleeder screw is up top, with the caliper on the bleeder screw should be up top, if not then calipers are on the wrong side, it sounds like air in the system, also you pumped the pedal up to push out the piston so pads hit rotor after bleeding,i dont see anything else, if the pedal is good with pinched lines at caliper then it got to be calipers are wrong or on the wrong side and the bleeder is not atop caliper,also you bleed the rear also? these trucks and cars use left caliper and rt rear on one system of the master and rt front and left rear on one side, let me know about the caliper, heres a picture to show you what i mean. hope this helps
#1) Break Loose your Lug Nuts,Just A Little don't Take-them off yet.
#2) Jack Front end off the Ground,Support with Good jack stands,Keep Truck in Park and Emergency brake Applied.
#3) Now Take off your Front Wheels-Tires.
#4) Now on the Inside of your brake rotor on each side,there are 2-Caliper mounting bolts. Allen Bolts 3/8" Allen Socket or Allen Wrench.Break the 2-Bolts loose and Remove them.
#5) Now after the Caliper Bolts are removed ,Loosen the Brake Line going to the Calipers using a Flare wrench.You'll need to have a Drain Pan handy to Catch the Brake Fluid.
#6) Now you'll need a C Clamp ,to compress the caliper piston back in the Caliper. NOTE: before you compress the Caliper pistons ,take off the master cylinder cover and using a suction bulb remove about 1/2 of the fluid from the Front Resevoir.the larger of the two.
#7) Now placing the C-Clamp over the Caliper housing turn it clockwise to compress the Piston all the way in.
#8) now you can remove your caliper and the pads,same for Both Sides. AND remove your Rotors they are held on by the Calipers and your Lug-Nuts.It Should come right off ,if its a little rusted and Stubborn take a Plastic Headed Hammer and Tap it all around the Old Rotor.Until it comes off.
#9) Now Slide your new Rotors on the HUB and over the lug nuts.
#10) Get your new caliper Making sure you have the Correct Caliper its Marked Left or Right Sides. It will only work on the Side its made for.
#11) Now put your Anti Rattel Clips on the Correct Sides(Inside) that fit into the New Caiper Piston.also use some brake lube on the back on the new brake pads where they touch the caiper housing.
#12) With both pads in the Caliper Slide the Caliper over your New Rotor. This is for both sides.
#13) Put your brake line back on using the new brass washers that came with your rotors/or Caipers.
#14) Now Put your Caliper Mounting bolts in and tighten up to 38 Foot Lbs.
#15) When you have both sides done Fill up your master Cylinder about a 1/4 " from top.
16) Now you'll need to bleed them ,Get a Friend and have them Slowly push the brake pedal down,after he says its down you open the bleeder valve until fluid and air come out==Now tighten it back before your friend raises his foot up off the pedal.During bleeding keep checking your Master Cylinder to keep it full of fluid.
#17) Start your bleeding from the Right Rear to Left Rear to Right Front and Last Left Front. Always bleed from the farthest brake or Wheel from the Master Cylinder and work your way to the Master.
#18) After you have No air coming out of the bleeder valve and you do have good clean brake fluid.Your Done Bleeding;You should have a Good tight and High Brake Pedal. NOTE: you DON't start the Truck to bleed the brakes.
#19) Now just Put your Tires back on and Tighten your Lug Nuts and you should have good Brakes.
I'm sure that this will get you good brakes and on the Road Again.
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The hard part is pressing the caliper piston abck into the caliper so you can get the new, thicker pads over the rotor. A large C Clamp works best.
SECTION 206-03: Front Disc Brake
2001 Villager Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Pads —Front Disc Brake
Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
Remove the front disc brake caliper bolts. torx bit. T20?
Support the front disc brake caliper from the front strut and spring assembly using mechanics wire.
Remove the front disc brake pads.
Remove the outboard front disc brake pad.
Remove the inboard front disc brake pad.
CAUTION: Make sure the master cylinder reservoir does not overfill and spill brake fluid while retracting the front disc brake caliper piston. NOTE: It is necessary to fully retract the front disc brake caliper piston in the bore before installing the front disc brake pads. Install the front disc brake pads.
Install the inboard front disc brake pad.
Install the outboard front disc brake pad.
Caution. The outer pads are left and right. put left on driver side.
Position the front disc brake caliper on the front-wheel knuckle and install the brake caliper pin bolts.
WARNING: It is necessary to depress the brake pedal several times to position the front disc brake caliper piston before driving the vehicle.
Something doesn't sound right, you shouldn't have to remove the brake line to install pads. Did you have to do this on both sides? Do the new pads and the old pads look the same? Did you get the caliper on crooked? Just recheck your work first before replacing more parts. When you install the caliper, You have to hook the pad on one side first before you slide it over the rotor.
The binding of the brakes is causing the pads to overheat, which is causing the smoke. You need pull the wheel and check things out. Your caliper must be bad (not releasing). You need to replace the caliper, brake pads, and have the rotor cut (a full service parts store or shop cuts the rotor perfectly smooth on both sides), or replaced (it may be cheaper to just buy a new rotor). You should also always change the pads (and check everything else) on the opposite side. So, if u do the brakes on the driver side front, always do the front pass. side at the same time, likewise if u do rear brakes. Whenever you do brakes u should also flush out the brake lines (by bleeding the brakes) until the brake fluid flows absolutely clear. Old brake fluid is the #1 reason for caliper failure. I've seen many times people replace brake components w/out changing the brake fluid, only to have the brakes wear out very quickly, or not function properly. good luck! hope this helps> please rate this!couontrycurt0