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Sounds like the cable or linkage has broken in side at the shifter assembly or out side at the transmission selector.Have some one move the shifter while you look under the hood at the transmission lever ( Do this with the car not running but the key on and the parking brake and foot brake applied) and see if it is moving . If it is not moving trace the cable back to inside the car to diagnose if it is the cable or the handle assembly . normally it is the cable or the clips the connect the cable at either end.
Do you have "rack and pinion" steering? Something loose or broken off in the Steering column, shocks, struts. or velocity boot can cause those types of noises. I recommed "PepBoys" - we've been with them for years and theyve never "steered" us wrong - and when they did make a mistake, they fixed it quickly at no charge and took full responsibility. Refreshing these days ha? :) Good luck, happy driving/]
Lubricant may not resolve it sounds like it could be your water pump froze up. Look to see if it is turning. Even if it turns it still could be bad.Usally the first sign of it going bad. Stop by your local auto parts store to see if they agree.
steering column bearing sounds like a worn out steering column... jack the front wheels off the ground both sides relieve load on steering wheel to see if it lessens the amount of feel and noise, if it does it shoud be the column bearing, replace bearings or complete column,,, also try with the wheels off the ground and safely supported to manualy steer the wheels by hand and see if you feel in roughness or hear any noises,should some minor resistance but be smooth in it movement if everything suspension and steering component wise is in good working condition... please rate my help.. thanks...
When I replace the axle halves, I run the Nut off till it is level with the shaft end. THen take a piece of wood and set it across the shaft and hit the wood with a hammer. Usually only takes one or two hits and pops right out.Then I remove the nut and finish removal . Hope this helps, Good luck and have a great day.
Just a possible check is first check your power steering fluid. When it runs low it can make the front end do many weird things. Also check if the front rotors are very warm. If I am correct to understand you have a 96 not a 2002. If so, they have dual piston calipers, which sometimes will hang one piston and apply the brake pad at an angle which will make them drag and wobble the calipers and rotors and give you a rough feel through the wheel. Hope this helps.
Your '93 Legacy was one of the first cars to provide ABS as standard. If your ABS is activating, you'll feel a fast pulsing feel when braking, is that what you experience?
If it's more of a brake pedal movement that changes frequency with the cars change of speed, and when moving slowly it feels slower and more pronounced, you likely have a warped rotor.
An ABS issue should be checked out by a Subaru mechanic. If it's the rotor, then the offending rotor will have to be machined or replaced. If you can identify the rotor that's warped (with the car on stands, rig up a steel ruler so that it touches the rotor, and spin the wheel by hand. If it touches intermittently, then the rotor is warped) you may be able to remove it yourself (buy a workshop manual for instructions) and bring it to a brake shop and have it machined. This is far cheaper than they doing the whole job.
However, if you're not comfortable with these suggestions, then have a brake shop do it for you. This is an important safety device (obviously) and worth the money to have it done correctly. Early Legacy's are pretty much bullet-proof and last forever, so the investment will be worthwhile.
Hope this helps.
If it takes that much force to manually open the doors, and it's on the doors that are less used, then I'd bet it's a set of door locks and actuators in need of lubrication.
Electric door lock actuators can easily be stopped or slowed down by resistance in the mechanism. This can be caused by corrosion, water getting into the door, and just old age and lack of use. I'd take the door panels off and take a peek.
On the Legacy the panels pop off fairly easily. You'll need to pry them off carefully with a flat screwdriver. You'll feel where the fasteners are, where the panels are resisting coming off, and prise the panel gently and firmly at these points and they'll pop out. Once out you'll see the lock mechanism.
Moving it by hand will tell if it's corroded or bound up. Apply some white litium grease to the mechanism, making sure to squirt/work it in, and then work the door handle/mechanism to get the lube into the linkage and actuators. Check the electrical contacts for corrosion while there and spray with WD-40 to protect them. This should free up the door mechanism and the actuators should then be able to do their job.
If after the above steps the electric actuators still don't work, use a voltmeter or circuit tester to check for 12V at the actuator when the door button is pressed. If you don't see any power, recheck that fuse and then the wiring back to the door harness. It's unlikely that this is the cause as its unlikely that you'd get only 3 out of 4 bad, but you never know in these old cars.
Hope this helps.