Question about 2002 Ford Explorer

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The odometer works when it is cold and fades out when it is hot

It works when it is cold outside but fades when it is cold. it is accurate at all times though.

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If this is a digital odometer; it sounds like you may have some bad pixels. Unfortunately, there is no way around it if you already have the brightness on the odometer to the max, than to replace it.

Posted on Jul 22, 2009


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The dash where the time and temperature are the clock works but the temp stays on 7 degrees even though it is 30 degrees outside and car was in the sun.

The external temperature probe is usually located behind a fender/bumper to keep it out of the air flow for a more accurate measurement, that is why the temperature drops after starting off as it sits in a pocket of warm air. It is not in direct sunlight so that shouldn't have harmed it.

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My 2007 Chevy HHR 2.2L, coolant temp sensor is reading that the coolant temp is 20 degrees warmer than the outside temp after sitting for over 12 hours and the operating temp gets to 214 degrees without...

Sure the engine coolant will be warmer than the outside temperture and if the car has been sitting a long time in cold weather and the outside temperture warms up it could be the other way around. The coolant temperture sensers aren't real accurate as they are a relaitive senser beween hot and cold and the numbers reported don't have to be real just the change from hot to cold and the reching of the coolant to the operating temperture. Noe it the senser doesn't read the opertating temperture coprrectly you'll have all kinds of problems. The therostaste will try to set the temperture of the water to it's set temperture and can open or close completly to get 195 degrees F. Many times if it's too cold then the stat is bad and needs to be replaced This shows up in alot of cars first thing after winter and the first onset of cold weather when the daily tempertures vary the most from day to night.

May 06, 2011 | 2007 Chevrolet HHR Special Edition

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I have a 1987 260E Mercedes Benz when it is cold outside she has a hard time starting. It is almost like the gas is not flowing through then after a few times of trying to start it she will start. Is it...

The fuel systems on these cars are somewhat complex, so it is difficult to give you an accurate diagnosis in one shot. Here are some things to check, and I am of course assuming you have some basic tool skills and troubleshooting ability.
1) Cold-start injector. This is the injector that fires directly into the intake manifold to richen the mixture when the engine is cold. You need to verify that this is firing when the car is started cold.
2) Coolant temperature sensor(s). Your car has either a 2 or 4 wire coolant temp sensor located near the top rear of the engine next to the valve cover. It needs to be tested with a multimeter to verify that the resistance is appropriate for the temperature. It is an NTC sensor (negative temperature coefficient) meaning that as temperature rises, resistance decreases and vice-versa. If this sensor is bad, the computer will not supply the appropriate fuel/air mixture.
3) Air meter plate binding or out of adjustment. The air meter plate lies beneath your air filter. It needs to move freely and not bind, and needs to be perfectly centered in the air meter bowl bore. Adjusting this requires access to specifications, so do not attempt to adjust this without doing some homework.
4) Fuel delivery issues. There are a variety of components that can cause fuel starvation at startup. A nearly clogged filter, a bad fuel accumulator (which maintains fuel pressure after shut-off), a tired fuel pump can all make starting difficult. Troubleshooting this without simply throwing money at parts requires access to a fuel pressure tester. If the car runs well all the time except for startup, then you can probably rule these out, though fuel filters are regular maintenance items that need to be replaced, and fuel accumulators and pumps do eventually fail.

Start with the cold-start injector and temp sensor. Good luck.

Feb 15, 2011 | 1987 Mercedes-Benz 300-Class

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The heater will not blow out of the vents even though the fan works fine

mine did that while trying to fix the recirculator flap and it fell flat on top of the blower which cut off the suction. i pulled the blower motor out and reached up in there to get to it. i found that the flap problem is common. only problem is if its not working it allows cold air in from outside. my wife complained her feet were cold even though the heat was on thats when i discovered my hinge on flap was broke

Feb 17, 2010 | Jeep Grand Cherokee Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Transmission down shifts alot when its cold outside changes fine when warm outside

Try changing the fluid and adding lucas conditioner and sealer. Sounds like a control valve is sticking and as it warms up the gunk that is holding it becomes less sticky and resumes normal operation.
I've used this product for a long time and it seems that it is the only one that actually does anything at all to help. Don't expect for it to work in ten minutes though ... It took time for the gunk to accumulate and it takes time for it to dissolve as well. No chem treatment will replace broken parts though but it will give you the best chance of success.

Jan 29, 2010 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

Misreading outside temperature sensor on 2001 Audi A4

There are four sensors for ambient tempurature and they work in unison to provide information to the temp reading on the dash, the heater control head ( where to direct air, blending of warm/cold/outside/inside air flapper controls) depending on the ambient temp and the inside air temp sensor located just above the radio as well as the sun sensor on the top of the dash as well as the a/c compressor head.

When you start your car, the body control module takes the readings from all sensors, outside air temp located in front of the radiator, air temp sensor located in the airbox ( senses temp of air being drawn in from the outside into the air box), coolant temp, inside air temp sensor and the sun sensor on top of the dash (this is why it takes a few seconds for the climate control system to begine when you start the car). The intake air sensor is 1st priority, inside air second, coolant third, ambient 4th and sun 5th. For instance, if the sun sensor reads the sun is hot but the interior sensor reads cold, the inside akes priority. The goal is for the system to achieve a tempurature inside the car that matches the selected temp. It uses all of the sensors to set the system up to achieve that goal as quickly as possible.

Example; Its mid afternoon, sunny and 40 degrees outside adn your in stop and go traffic. The intake sensor reads 40 degrees, the outside sensor reads 60 degrees (heat from radiator...engine heat protrudes into cabin) and the sun sensor reads high (sun is strong). The system is set for 72. priority one sensor reads 40, inside sensor reads 65, ambient reads 60= system will blow hot air to the floor out put, dash outlets will lightly flow 65 degree air so the sun doesnt roast you yet your feet are cold(if it blew hot air from all outlets, your upper body would be hot but your legs/feet would be cold). as the interior sensor reaches desired temp, air will be distrubuted through thee dash, defrost and floor with the warmest air coming out the floor and defrost, coolest air out the dash vents. Its a complex system!

The two sensors that will screw the system up the most are the intake and interior sensors. the system will function reasonably well with just those two sensors though it wont blend air temps between outlets if the sun sensor isnt working. If the outside sensor fails, it simply uses the intake sensor, if the intake sensor fails it will rely on the front sensor. However, since the intake takes priority over the outside sensor, if the intake sensor sends incorrect resistance info rather than failing, it will take priority and cause the unit to malfunction such as in your case.

The intake air sensor can be changed from the outside with patience. If it where me, I would pay the two hrs labor and let the dealer do it right.

Kevins Small Engine service,
South Berwick ME. 03908

May 01, 2009 | 2001 Audi A4

1 Answer

Tire pressure monitor

32 psiis actually low for a 3500. I have a 1500 silverado that runs 44 psi cold. The tire inflation monitor , monitors inflated cirunference. Sooooo, If it isn'nt round enough, it will let you know. Driving warms up both the air and the tire,off course changing everything again. Pressure is up and tire is bigger. Ask me not how it can tell what is going on with the tire sitting still. I'm only on page 9,000, the answer is here somewher. :-) Well good luck. I do know the above is accurate._Ned_

Jun 26, 2008 | 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 3500

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