Question about 1984 Chevrolet Camaro

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Clutch isnt wonting to disengage

I put a new clutch in my 84 camaro, got the flywheel resurfaced,,which the shop never told me how much that had taken off..the master cylinder and slave cylinder are basically brand new..about a yr and ahalf old.,.I put the flywheel on,placed the clutch and the pressure plate and used the alinement tool..put the transmission in and bolted everything back up I put the car in first gear push the clutch pedal in which is a full pedal..and go to start the car up and the car goes to take off..the clutch isnt disengaging I know that much lol...but I really hope that some one can help me figure this one out...

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  • taddotson Jul 21, 2009

    I have bleed the slave cylinder and I dont kno were the bleeder vavle is to bleed the master cylinder didnt kno it had one thanx cookieeye for your help

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Bleed out master and slave cylinders

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

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Take master sil out. in side is ss tube turn this over it is worn at bottom.
for plunger. ps ball on clutch fork backs out changing lanth need alien to fix

Posted on Aug 08, 2009

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I rebuilt the engine on my 84 Camaro and replaced the clutch as part of the rebuild. When I put everything back together I couldn't get the car in gear. Everything worked before tearing it down and all parts were OEM. The problem seems to be the self adjusting clutch doesn't self adjust far enough. First check to see if the throw from the slave to the fork is correct. The travel should be just over a half an inch. Use a tape measure from a fixed point on the slave and hook the end over the fork to check the throw. Have an assistant push the peddle all the way down. If it's over half an inch it's not the hydraulics. The issue is the push rod from the slave to the fork is to short. Remove the slave cylinder from the mount. The boot comes off and the push rod just sits loose in the cylinder. Take the rod out and measure it. It's probably 4 inches long. DON'T PUSH THE CLUTCH PEDDLE WITH THE ROD OR SLAVE REMOVED. I took a piece of round 3/8 steel stock and cut it down making several test lengths each 1/8 inches longer than the last. I ground the ends round to about the same as the stock park and tested the different length until I found the one that fully disengaged the system yet let it fully engage when released. It took a few tries but the steel rod is cheap. Once you have the length needed you could get a piece machined to the same shape as the stock part if required. I just put the boot on my made up part and it works fine. If you want to test the theory put a few washers between the fork and the push rod. Use electrical tape to keep them together. Once they're in the pressure will keep them snug while you test it. Try about a 1/4 inch to start and only go up an 1/8th inch at a time after that. It doesn't take much so be careful not to add to much at once.

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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1 Answer

If you release the clutch pedal and it revs up before it goes and while driving the rpm gauge goes up and down is that the clutch slipping


If you are getting that amount of slippage, it is unlikely that a simple clutch adjustment will cure it. Your clutch pedal should have roughly 1" of free play from the top of the clutch pedal, and absolutely no more than 2" free play.
If you have zero free play, it "may" be possible to eliminate the slippage by adjusting the clutch, but you would have to be very lucky to get off that easy.

The slippage means that your clutch disc is most likely worn too thin and possibly glazed, as well as glazing of the flywheel and pressure plate friction surfaces. When the pedal is released, the clutch engages by sandwiching the clutch disc between the flywheel on one side and the clutch pressure plate on the other side. Strong springs in the pressure plate keep the clutch disc tightly sandwiched between the flywheel & pressure plate. Pushing on the clutch pedal releases this tension/pressure.

It's never "just a flywheel". That mechanic is bogus. All 3 parts are affected by worn or slipping clutch. Usually you don't need a new flywheel, as resurfacing it is usually fine & the normal procedure.
But you will need to replace the clutch disc and pressure plate anytime the flywheel is resurfaced.

Resurfacing a flywheel is similar to resurfacing brake rotors on a brake pad replacement (brake job).
Naturally the transmission has to be removed to get access to the clutch components, which is really the biggest part of the job.

Here's a pic of the basic clutch components:
Please rate via the helpful button if this helped in answering your question, or feel free to ask if you need further explanation.

25272069-gzkbcu1ydtbrdfwc1xuo0az3-2-0.jpg

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The transmission will need to be removed. Probably will need a new clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing and pilot bearing. The flywheel should be removed and taking to a machine shop to have them resurface it.

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a repair manual or mechanic who has done it before

a lift or hoist and extensive set of tools, a warm and well lit place to work, being a shop

a new clutch, a new pressure plate, a new throw out bearing, called a clutch kit

a new pre bled clutch master cylinder and slave unit. it is all 14 years old replace it all while it is
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while you have the engine out, remove the flywheel and have it resurfaced.

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What you describe sounds very much like the clutch is failing to disengage.
Fluid level being fine and no leaks under the car is good, but doesnt mean there isnt something wrong with either the master cylinder, slave cylinder, or the associated parts.

Highly unlikely there is a fault with the flywheel or clutch as failures with these would normally give no drive in any gear.

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There are several things to check here. First check that the master cylinder to the clutch is working correctly. Then check that the slave cylinder is working. The Fords are sometimes difficult to bleed. The other item unfortunately is in the bell housing. There is a pivot that the release fork rolls over in the bell housing. Fords are famous for these breaking and causing the clutch to not disengage. The other problem could be the release fork is bent. These are not all fix it items. Just all the probable items that could be the problem. Hope this helps you. Usually you can just get the flywheel resurfaced for about $12. Was your flywheel junk? I hope someone didn't just decide to sell you a flywheel. Let me know what you find.

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You may want to read bleeding instruction at this link, it may shed some light.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800b886d

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