Question about 1984 Chevrolet Camaro

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Clutch isnt wonting to disengage

I put a new clutch in my 84 camaro, got the flywheel resurfaced,,which the shop never told me how much that had taken off..the master cylinder and slave cylinder are basically brand new..about a yr and ahalf old.,.I put the flywheel on,placed the clutch and the pressure plate and used the alinement tool..put the transmission in and bolted everything back up I put the car in first gear push the clutch pedal in which is a full pedal..and go to start the car up and the car goes to take off..the clutch isnt disengaging I know that much lol...but I really hope that some one can help me figure this one out...

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  • taddotson Jul 21, 2009

    I have bleed the slave cylinder and I dont kno were the bleeder vavle is to bleed the master cylinder didnt kno it had one thanx cookieeye for your help


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Bleed out master and slave cylinders

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

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Take master sil out. in side is ss tube turn this over it is worn at bottom.
for plunger. ps ball on clutch fork backs out changing lanth need alien to fix

Posted on Aug 08, 2009

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I rebuilt the engine on my 84 Camaro and replaced the clutch as part of the rebuild. When I put everything back together I couldn't get the car in gear. Everything worked before tearing it down and all parts were OEM. The problem seems to be the self adjusting clutch doesn't self adjust far enough. First check to see if the throw from the slave to the fork is correct. The travel should be just over a half an inch. Use a tape measure from a fixed point on the slave and hook the end over the fork to check the throw. Have an assistant push the peddle all the way down. If it's over half an inch it's not the hydraulics. The issue is the push rod from the slave to the fork is to short. Remove the slave cylinder from the mount. The boot comes off and the push rod just sits loose in the cylinder. Take the rod out and measure it. It's probably 4 inches long. DON'T PUSH THE CLUTCH PEDDLE WITH THE ROD OR SLAVE REMOVED. I took a piece of round 3/8 steel stock and cut it down making several test lengths each 1/8 inches longer than the last. I ground the ends round to about the same as the stock park and tested the different length until I found the one that fully disengaged the system yet let it fully engage when released. It took a few tries but the steel rod is cheap. Once you have the length needed you could get a piece machined to the same shape as the stock part if required. I just put the boot on my made up part and it works fine. If you want to test the theory put a few washers between the fork and the push rod. Use electrical tape to keep them together. Once they're in the pressure will keep them snug while you test it. Try about a 1/4 inch to start and only go up an 1/8th inch at a time after that. It doesn't take much so be careful not to add to much at once.

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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It's never "just a flywheel". That mechanic is bogus. All 3 parts are affected by worn or slipping clutch. Usually you don't need a new flywheel, as resurfacing it is usually fine & the normal procedure.
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Here's a pic of the basic clutch components:
Please rate via the helpful button if this helped in answering your question, or feel free to ask if you need further explanation.


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